Uncorking the North East’s herbal heritage as a global tourism frontier

For decades, global conversation about wine and fermentation has been shaped by a Eurocentric narrative. Most of us grow up thinking that “real” wine starts and ends with the European grape, Vitis vinifera. When people talk about ancient wineries like the 6,000-year-old Areni-1 in Armenia, they often overlook the vibrant traditions blossoming elsewhere, especially in the Indo-Burma biodiversity hotspot. Far from the celebrated European landscapes, communities across North East India have long practised sophisticated fermentation traditions based not on grapes but on grains, fruits, and herbal starter cultures. These traditions remain largely absent from global discussions of fermentation heritage, despite representing a rich and distinctive cultural legacy.

Across the region, traditional fermented beverages such as Apong in Arunachal Pradesh, Kiad in Meghalaya, and Zutho in Nagaland form an integral part of social and ritual life. Prepared through fermentation processes that combine rice or millet with herbal starter cultures derived from locally available plants, these beverages reflect deep reservoirs of indigenous knowledge. Brewing practices are closely tied to festivals, agricultural cycles, and community identity, with techniques passed down across generations. Yet for generations, this rich heritage has been unfairly dismissed as “country liquor”, a colonial label that continues to carry stigma. This is in stark contrast to the way European wine traditions have been elevated into global cultural and tourism industries. After all, many of the world’s celebrated beverages — from Champagne in France to Mexican tequila — originated as local products before being formalised and elevated into globally recognised premium categories.

India’s wine market today is highly concentrated, with nearly 80 per cent of domestic wine coming from the Nashik Valley in Maharashtra, often described as the “Wine Capital of India”. In 2026, Sula Vineyards alone was valued at roughly Rs 1,360 crore, with annual revenues of approximately Rs 619 crore, and had an export presence in over 30 countries, demonstrating how geographically rooted produce can evolve into a globally competitive industry.

Nashik’s success shows that India can stand alongside global wine producers, but it also highlights a missed opportunity. The Northeast, with its rich fermentation heritage, barely registers in India’s formal $208.3 billion alcohol market. Much of the region’s alcohol production remains outside formal chains, in household-based systems, particularly among rural women.

The opportunity, therefore, is not to replicate grape-based wine production but to position these beverages as indigenous botanical spirits aligned with the global trend of “mindful drinking”. Beyond production, the real economic potential lies in experiential tourism through initiatives like a “Heritage Brew Trail”, where travellers can explore traditional breweries and witness firsthand how Humao starter cakes are blended with local botanicals. Integrating such experiences with established destinations like Meghalaya’s living root bridges or the paddy-cum-fish cultivation of Ziro Valley in Arunachal could create distinctive tourism offerings that are both culturally immersive and economically viable. Beyond attracting visitors, such initiatives could support local artisans, strengthen community participation, and embed traditional knowledge within a sustainable tourism framework. The region needs a more deliberate policy shift. Existing licensing and excise frameworks continue to treat traditional brewing as an unstructured activity rather than a specialised, knowledge-intensive practice. This not only constrains formalisation but also creates ambiguity around safety and quality standards. A differentiated regulatory approach is therefore essential. Creating a distinct category for low-volume, community-based fermentation — separate from industrial liquor — would lower entry barriers and enable gradual formalisation.

This must be supported by improving access to hygienic processing and export-quality bottling for small producers while reducing licensing barriers. Equally important is the Geographical Indication (GI) tagging of traditional brews to protect tribal knowledge systems from international counterfeiting. Policy intent, however, is beginning to align. The Union Budget 2026–27, under the Purvodaya vision, signals a stronger focus on the economic development of eastern and North Eastern regions. Complementing this, the Rs 1,700 crore allocation under the PM-FME scheme provides a pathway to support micro food processing enterprises, including community-based producers. However, the effectiveness of such interventions will depend on their ability to adapt to decentralised, community-led production systems rather than forcing premature formalisation.

Practical entry points include integrating brew trails into the existing homestay network, setting up temporary festival-based sales windows, conducting district-level brew mapping exercises, offering producers basic hygiene and packaging workshops and kits, facilitating exposure visits to established beverage companies, and building partnerships with boutique hotels to create curated tasting experiences.

The timing is perfect. Western consumers are becoming more interested in botanical and heritage-inspired drinks. The global herbal liqueur market is set to grow and reach USD 2.68 billion, with an annual growth rate of 7 per cent. Early movers in this region are leading the way. Cherrapunji Eastern Craft Gin, made from rainwater and local botanicals like Khasi Mandarin, is valued at Rs 58 crore, about USD 7 million, and has started selective exports to the UAE, Sri Lanka, and Japan. Similarly, Naara Aaba Winery in Arunachal Pradesh, the first to create organic kiwi wine valued at over Rs 20 crore, has begun exploring markets in Singapore and Taiwan. These early steps are promising, offering a solid outline.

The constraint is no longer supply but institutional design. Despite a large domestic market and rising global demand, traditional fermentation is treated as a regulatory concern rather than an economic opportunity. The indigenous knowledge, the product base, and the cultural depth already exist. With strong policy support, investment in formalisation, and tourism as a key way to attract interest, the North East could shift from a minor part of India’s beverage story to a globally recognised leader in heritage fermentation. Today’s consumers seek more than just a drink; they want a story, a culture, and a sense of place. The North East provides all three in every drop.

Noboneeta Rabha, Research Assistant, Pahle India Foundation. Aditi Rawat, Associate Fellow, Pahle India Foundation; Views presented are personal.