Imagine stepping back in time without sacrificing an ounce of modern comfort. At Hotel Neri, nestled in a 17th-century mansion and the only Relais and Chateaux property in Barcelona, my stay was a delightful blend of history and luxury.
Picture this: a 17th-century mansion turned chic boutique hotel with just 22 rooms. This is Hotel Neri, where each corner oozes charm and every stay feels like a time-travelling adventure. This enchanting 12th-century palace-turned-hotel, located beside the quaint Placa de Sant Felipe Neri, retains its historical charm with stone walls and archways that whisk you back in time. Though it lacks a gym, its distinct style and unbeatable location make up for it tenfold. The terrace overlooking a quaint, atmospheric square and the lush rooftop bar are just a couple of quirky touches you’ll love. Given its quiet pedestrian street setting, you might have a slight hassle with heavy luggage, but don’t let that deter you—this serene sanctuary is worth the extra steps.
Inside, the décor has evolved from vibrant, bold palettes and plush velvets to a soothing symphony of creams and greys adorned with elegant black and white photos. My lucky pick was an Apartment with a breath-taking medieval ambience and charming views of the cobbled street buzzing with tapas bars. Talk about living the fairy tale! The room’s ambiance, a mix of sophisticated neutrals and delicate fabrics, made the stay luxuriously cosy. The sleep preferences menu—offering sheets in cotton, satin, or linen, and a variety of pillows—felt like a dreamy personal touch. And the bathroom! A peaceful oasis with both a bathtub and rain shower, mood lighting, and Molton Brown products.
HISTORICAL CHARM AWAITS
Strolling through the Gothic Quarter, where the Romans once settled, feels like stepping into a storybook. Winding cobblestone streets lined with cosy shops, cafes, and residences lead to hidden plazas, each more picturesque than the last. Hotel Neri’s central location is a dream for explorers. Just around the corner, the bells of the Barcelona Cathedral serenaded us from our room. Within a 5–10-minute stroll, we reached Placa de Sant Jaume and the iconic churches of Santa Maria Del Mar and Santa Maria Del Pi, famously featured in Tom Holland’s ‘Uncharted.’ The waterfront and the bustling Las Ramblas were also close by, ensuring we never missed a beat of the city’s vibrant life. Hop on the metro, only five minutes away, and the rest of Barcelona unfolds at your feet. And for those with a sweet tooth, a quick five-minute amble took us to Calle Petritxol, a pedestrian haven brimming with chocolate and churro shops, including the famed La Granja Dulcinea. It is not just a place to stay; it’s a historical adventure waiting to be experienced.
THE LITTLE LUXURIES
Dining at the A Restaurant was a gastronomic delight. The menu, brimming with Catalonian dishes and global influences, featured gems like the “fougasse and Rum Baba.” It was a true feast for the senses. The rooftop, Roba Estesa, transformed into a romantically lit, lush retreat, was the perfect spot to unwind under the stars. Living in a medieval castle, even for a short while, feels like a vibrant, whimsical dream. Relais & Chateaux boasts nearly 600 luxury hotels and fine dining restaurants worldwide, renowned for unique accommodations, exquisite cuisine, and impeccable service. President Laurent Gardinier aptly described them as paragons of ‘excellence, food, experience, and culture.’
After the delight of staying in Hotel Neri, I can confirm this commitment is nothing short of remarkable. If you crave a unique and romantic historical refuge in the lively heart of Barcelona, Hotel Neri is your match. Though it comes with a boutique five-star price tag, the magical experience it offers is simply priceless. It’s the little things that elevate a hotel stay from pleasant to unforgettable. At Hotel Neri, these thoughtful touches were on par with the world’s finest hotels, such as the Ritz Carlton, Four Seasons, and Six Senses. From the cosy throw blanket on the bed—so handy when we left the heat off—to the fresh clementines awaiting us upon check-in, each detail made our stay special. Turn-down service with chocolates, and our stylish glass water pitcher refilled twice daily, all contributed to a feeling of home away from home. Though our next visit to Barcelona might be a few years away, Hotel Neri will be my go-to choice. I wholeheartedly recommend this gem—and any Relais & Chateaux property—to fellow travellers seeking a truly memorable experience.
— She is an independent food & travel writer, a chef and a catalyst and is the first Indian to have trained at Osteria Francescana, in Modena, Italy, rated as the world’s best restaurant in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, in 2016 and 2018 and currently in the Best of The Best Category
