From Kolkata to Delhi: The Taste of Two Cities

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From Kolkata to Delhi: The Taste of Two Cities

Sunday, 06 October 2024 | Divya Bhatia

From Kolkata to Delhi: The Taste of Two Cities

While Durga Puja is celebrated across the country, it is at a different level in Kolkata. The rhythm of the dhak, the vibrant atmosphere and the exquisite food transport you to another world, writes DIVYA BHATIA

A visit to Kolkata revealed the grandeur of the festivities, showcasing stunning pandals and creating cherished moments. As a foodie, I was captivated by the culinary extravaganza, especially the traditional Bhuribhoj and Bengali Thali. The unforgettable flavours of Basanti Polao, Aloo Bhaja, Begun Bhaja, Potol Bhaja, Luchi and Chholar Dal, paired with Mishti Doi and Rasgulla, left a lasting impression. The magic of these dishes lies in the love behind their preparation. Bengalis savour their meals in small courses, enhancing the authentic flavours of their cuisine. While I’ve felt a festive spirit in Delhi, it cannot match Kolkata's enchanting transformation during Durga Puja. However, Delhi offers its own take on Bengali cuisine, and this year, I explored delightful recipes from young chefs, ensuring that whether you're in Kolkata or elsewhere, you can enjoy traditional Puja dishes.

Chef Gautam Kumar’s Recipe for Gobindobhog Gurer Payesh

Chef Gautam Kumar, Executive Chef at Foodlink F&B Holdings (India), brings over 20 years of experience in regional Indian cuisine. He emphasises fresh, locally sourced ingredients and has held prestigious positions at top hotels like Shangri-La and Grand Hyatt Delhi. His innovative approach has garnered numerous accolades, and one of his favourite dishes is Gobindobhog Gurer Payesh.

Gobindobhog Gurer Payesh

Kheer, or "payesh" in Bengali, is a sweet rice and milk dish beloved in Bengali culture. Offered to the goddess Durga as "bhog," it is shared among devotees after the puja. Made with date palm jaggery, "nolen gud kheer" is a healthier alternative to sugar, especially popular during Durga Puja. Sharing Payesh symbolizes unity and harmony among family members.

Durga Puja. Sharing Payesh symbolises unity and fosters harmony among family members.

Ingredients

  • 1 litre full-fat milk
  • 50 grams Gobindo bhog rice
  • 150 grams nolen gur (date palm jaggery)
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • ¼ teaspoon green cardamom powder
  • 20 grams cashew nuts
  • 10 grams raisins (soaked and drained)
  • 10 grams ghee

Method

Soak the Rice: Soak the rice in water for 30 minutes, ensuring not to over-wash it to retain as much starch as possible. After soaking, drain the rice and spread it out to dry.

Coat the Rice: Coat the soaked rice with ¼ teaspoon of ghee and set aside.

Prepare the Raisins: Soak the raisins in water until swollen.

Fry Cashews: Heat ghee in a pan and fry the cashews until golden. Set aside.

Boil the Milk: Boil the milk in a heavy-bottomed pan, simmer for 15 inutes, and add cardamom powder.

Cook the Rice: Add the ghee-coated rice to the milk and cook on low heat until fully cooked. The rice should be soft and mushy when mashed between your fingers, as it will firm up while cooling. Stir gently to prevent burning and release starch, which thickens the payesh.

Thicken the Payesh: Ensure the rice is fully cooked; the payesh should be slightly thicker than desired, as the gur will thin it out.

Add Gur: Turn off the heat and mix in the gur, salt, soaked raisins, and fried cashews, keeping the heat off to prevent curdling. Gently fold everything together, cover the pan, and let the residual heat melt the gur completely. Serve the payesh hot or cold in a bowl, garnished with fried cashews and soaked raisins.

Recipe for Narkel ni Chingri

Chef Gagandeep Singh Bedi, Director of Culinary at Roseate Hotels & Resorts, specialises in reviving regional Indian cuisines and creating signature dishes at Kheer. He focuses on organic produce and minimising food waste.

Narkel ni Chingri Recipe

One of his standout creations is Narkel ni Chingri, a delightful prawn dish cooked in coconut milk. This recipe exemplifies Chef Gagandeep’s commitment to authentic flavours and sustainable practices. Here’s how to make it:

Ingredients

  • 500g prawns, cleaned and deveined
  • 200ml fresh coconut milk
  • 75g fresh grated coconut
  • 1 large onion, finely chopped
  • 1 tbsp ginger paste
  • 1 tbsp garlic paste
  • 2-3 green chilies, sit
  • ½ tsp turmeric powder
  • ½ tsp red chili powder
  • 40ml mustard oil
  • Salt to taste
  • Fresh coriander for garnish

Instructions

  • Marinate the prawns with turmeric and salt for 15 minutes.
  • Roast the grated coconut on medium flame until golden brown.
  • Heat mustard oil in a pan until smoking, then reduce heat.
  • Sauté onions until golden brown, then add ginger and garlic paste.
  • Add green chilies, turmeric and red chilli powder, stirring well.
  • Add marinated prawns and cook until pink (5-7 minutes).
  • Pour in coconut milk and simmer for 5-10 minutes.
  • Add roasted grated coconut and cook for an additional 2-3 minutes.
  • Adjust seasoning and garnish with fresh coriander and Serve hot with steamed rice for a delicious meal!

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