Saimi Sattar samples the new menu at the Farzi Cafe and discovers old favourites with a twist
Modern Indian cuisine, as a food genre has been having its moment in the sun for quite some time. From fine dining, it has now graduated to a bistro format. And Zorawar Kalra’s Farzi Cafe was one of the first ones off the block which attempted to bring a more contemporary version of the country’s food and make it a preferred choice for a generation that was equally at home digging into a pizza as a makki ki roti sarson da saag. So the aim here is to create an amalgamation of traditional global cuisine, with Indian influences, contemporary presentations, culinary styles and ambience.
The bistro has recently introduced a new menu that takes you on a culinary journey of traditional cuisine from different parts of the country in a contemporary version. So, you could dig into a Sweet potato chat with foam chutney and wafer on top or have a Mutton galouti kebab wrapped in a blanched sheermal (yes, you read that right).
So, we headed to the Connaught Place outlet of the restaurant to find out what the fuss was all about. The place, done primarily in wood with warm lights, had an inviting hue. We settled down strategically in a place that was not likely to see too many footfalls and glanced around appreciatively at a set-up that was clearly for live performances loaded as it was with musical instruments. But that was the ambience.
Coming to the food, the amuse-bouche arrived with enough drama to catch our attention. A thick nitrogen fog poured out from a basin and when it cleared a bit, it revealed two small vessels containing Mishti doi sphere with strawberry reduction. Eaten in one slurp, the taste was tantalising enough to almost make me ask for a second round but we decided to let Chef Jagdeep Rana take charge of the meal rather than being swayed by my gluttony.
The chef suggested that we try a few starters and since these have become my second-favourite part of the meal, after dessert, I was more than willing. While we waited for the food, we sipped on to our mocktails, Farzi OK and Litchi panna desire. Despite the first being a signature drink, it was the latter that found favour among both of us.
But soon enough, plates in different shapes and sizes bearing food made their way to the table. The Sweet potato chaat, chutney foam and crisp wafer replicated the street side delight where the chutney foam and the wafer added a contemporary twist. The Jaitooni paneer tikka, keeper’s raita was succulent but what made it truly stand out was that none of the flavours was overpowering. The blend ensured that the taste of the cheese was not smothered by that of the spices. The Rock prawns. thecha, pepper and peanuts used the coarsely pounded Maharashtrian condiment with green chillies and garlic in a presentation that looked absolutely modern. Biting in, the familiar flavour of thecha kicked in and we realised that it could go as well with the prawns as bhakri (millet flatbread).
We moved on to something more hearty and a Mutton galouti, sheermal cannelloni was waiting for us. While the galouti was tender, just the way it should be, for someone from the Awadh-belt, who can write a thesis on the finer nuances of sheermal variants served in Lucknow, Kanpur and what masquerades as one in Delhi, the cannelloni did not quite make the cut — more cannelloni than sheermal. It was a watered-down version of the much-loved bread. The Chicken candy, gondhoraj sauce with a dip that was reminiscent of butter chicken gravy was really filling and we could hardly finish even one. The hint of lemon, so popular in Bengali cooking added a whiff of freshness to the dish.
Moving to the main course, we had the Exotic mushroom gassi, ajwaini lacha paratha which was spectacular. The balance of flavour and the mushrooms cooked to perfection ensured that we wiped the bowl clean. The Prawn Alleppey curry, steam rice was equally flavoursome. A little tart flavour which was offset by the slightly sweet taste of the coconut perfectly complemented the prawns.
The Yuzu malai, pistachio crumb was a fitting finale to the meal. The creamy texture tickled the taste buds while the citrusy flavour gave it a fresh blast.
We returned with our tummies full and the palate satiated.
