From the iconic domes of St. Basil's Cathedral to the sleek skyscrapers of Moscow City, this vibrant metropolis enchants with its rich heritage, cultural treasures, and dynamic spirit, writes GYANESHWAR DAYAL
As I step off the plane at Moscow’s Sheremetyevo Alexander S. Pushkin International Airport, the brisk, cold breeze is a refreshing change from the humid warm air of Delhi. This is my second trip to Moscow; my first visit occurred shortly after the Soviet Union disintegrated and Russia emerged as a new entity. Indeed, Moscow has transformed significantly since then. The city’s infrastructure has improved dramatically, making it almost unrecognisable; the roads and the cars on them wear a fresh look. Yet, amidst this change, Moscow retains its unique character - inviting yet inherently private.
Over its 877-year history, the city has withstood a lot. Moscow lives fully, with its history woven into every brick and stone. Each regime has left its imprint, manifesting in monuments and relics scattered throughout the city, which now stand in contrast to modern architecture.
Moscow, the capital of Russia, boasts a rich and complex history that spans over 800 years. Founded in 1147 by Prince Yuri Dolgoruky, the city initially served as a minor trading post. Its strategic location on the Moskva River facilitated trade and communication, contributing to its gradual rise in importance. By the 15th century, under Ivan III (Ivan the Great), Moscow emerged as a significant political and cultural centre, ultimately overthrowing Mongol dominance.
In 1547, Ivan IV (Ivan the Terrible) was crowned as the first Tsar of Russia, marking the official establishment of the Tsardom. This period was characterised by territorial expansion, the consolidation of power, and the construction of iconic structures like St. Basil’s Cathedral, which symbolises Moscow’s architectural heritage.
Red Square, the iconic heart of Moscow, was established in the late 15th century, specifically during the reign of Ivan III (Ivan the Great). Originally, the area served as a marketplace and a central hub for various activities, but it gradually evolved into a political and cultural centre. It is now a must visit tourist attraction. And if one wants to understand Moscow brace up for a long walk.
Red Square transports you to the 15th century. Our guide, an enthusiastic and energetic lady tells us Red is not for colour though the bricks and stones used are Red, Red in Russian means beautiful so it is a beautiful square and I couldn’t agree less. You have the colourful St. Basil’s Cathedral overlooking the square, commissioned by Ivan IV (Ivan the Terrible) in 1555 to commemorate the conquest of Kazan. Done in Disney style (or maybe it is the other way round). This style of structure painting is categorical of Russia and is called “Russian patterning.” It is the place to click selfies.
Red square is also the place where Lenin’s embalmed body is kept and many other Generals were buried. We don’t get a chance to go inside as it is closed by the time we reach. Vladimir Lenin, leader of the October Revolution and the first leader and founder of the Soviet Union, died in Gorki aged 53 after falling into a coma on January 21, 1924. It has been 100 years since he died. The GUM Department Store is a major shopping destination nearby. It is beautiful no doubt and has the best brands on offer. I buy nothing but it is an experience; the aura of the place is awesome. Nearby there is a souvenir shop which has a good collection of memorabilia and offers discounts and prices are negotiable, it feels like home. I bought a few souvenirs.
Red Square has been the site of numerous significant events throughout Russian history, including military parades, public gatherings, and political demonstrations, making it a symbol of both the historical and contemporary Russian state. Then there is a change of guards where every two hours Presidential guards change their duty. They say you have to be the best to be presidential guards. Three tough looking guys come and replace the three guards on duty and walk beating their boots on the ground. The Moscow Victory Day Parade is an annual military parade of the Russian Armed Forces on Moscow’s Red Square on May 9 during the Victory Day celebrations and is a big draw with the tourists and locals alike
The other most visited complex in the world is perhaps the Kremlin, the seat of power, where you still have the president’s office. We walk through the door rather easily. Our guide is smart; tells us the President is not there else it would not be that easy. There is the president’s office and a broken bell which never rang once as it broke while making it. Then there were buildings that were set on fire when Napoleon attacked. People abandoned them and went to jungles. All Bonapart found was a smoking burning building. They were restored and did not look burnt now. We moved on to the churches where Tzars were baptised, crowned and laid to rest. All have shining brass tops. Don’t know how they keep them so shiny. I can’t keep my small Buddha statue that shiny anyway.
Moscow became the capital of the new socialist state, undergoing rapid industrialisation and significant urban development, exemplified by the construction of grandiose structures like the Seven Sisters skyscrapers. These seven huge buildings still stand tall and are landmarks. They now house a university, a government ministry, a hotel and no idea about the others.
Interestingly the underground in Moscow was used as bunkers by the Muscovites during the second world war. The stations are indeed nothing short of a palace with large murals exquisitely done and preserved. We decided to take a ride. The coaches are neat and people are friendly. We exchange smiles with fellow passengers. Our short but sweet journey comes to an end and we are back to our hotel.
The dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991 marked another pivotal moment in Moscow’s history. The city transitioned from a socialist regime to a market economy, leading to significant social and economic changes. Modern Moscow has seen extensive urban development and globalisation. Moscow has now become a business hub and opened to intercultural relations and tourists from all over the world
Today, Moscow stands as a vibrant metropolis that beautifully blends its rich historical heritage with modernity, attracting millions of visitors each year who come to explore its vast cultural treasures, including historic churches, museums, and vibrant neighbourhoods. Each brick and stone of this ancient city tells a story of resilience and transformation, reflecting the enduring spirit of its people.
Moscow is a foodie’s paradise. I enjoyed Zhivago’s food, excellent food served with a charming smile. Apart from Dr Zhivago there are many restaurants that dot the city and have amazing food and vibes. Moscow is a vibrant city where culinary culture thrives, offering a rich tapestry of dining experiences that reflect both tradition and innovation. From elegant restaurants serving classic Russian fare like ‘borscht’ and ‘pelmeni’ to trendy eateries embracing global influences, the city’s food scene is diverse and sophisticated.
In the heart of Moscow, Café Pushkin stands as a symbol of elegance, offering a nostalgic ambiance reminiscent of 19th-century aristocratic Russia. For those seeking modern Russian cuisine with a twist, White Rabbit is a must-visit, famous for its innovative take on local ingredients and breathtaking views of the city.
For a more casual yet equally delightful experience, LavkaLavka, a farm-to-table restaurant, emphasizes sustainable dining, offering dishes made from fresh, locally sourced ingredients. Meanwhile, Dr. Zhivago of course presents a chic, contemporary take on traditional Soviet-era dishes in a stylish setting.For travellers and locals alike, these eateries are more than just places to dine—they offer an immersive experience into Moscow’s rich cultural heritage and evolving modern palate.
Moscow has a good number of Museums too; they are a must visit if you have taste beyond Malls and Restaurants which Moscow has plenty. The guides are funny and knowledgeable at the same time. Moscow has a huge collection of paintings from bygone eras.
Mostly of the Christ, kings but also of the people their life and woes. One could spend a day just watching the masterpieces. For the intellectually inclined, Moscow has a number of libraries with excellent collections of books.
Russian libraries are not just repositories of books but vital cultural institutions that embody the country’s rich literary and intellectual tradition. The most iconic among them is the Russian State Library in Moscow, one of the largest in the world.
Founded in 1862, it holds millions of volumes, including rare manuscripts, maps, and other historical documents, making it a treasure trove for researchers and scholars.
The library’s architectural grandeur reflects its significance, with vast reading rooms and meticulously curated collections covering a wide range of disciplines. Beyond the Russian State Library, Moscow is home to numerous other libraries, such as the Lenin Library, which is also highly regarded for its expansive catalogue of works.
But the best thing about Moscow is its people; friendly, courteous and always willing to help.
The warmth of the Russian people is often a pleasant surprise for those visiting the country for the first time. Once you break through the initial formalities, you’ll find that Russians are deeply hospitable, warm-hearted, and generous, especially when it comes to welcoming guests into their homes.The tradition of hospitality runs deep—guests are treated with great respect, and hosts often insist on sharing hearty meals and meaningful conversations, making you feel genuinely at home. As we pack bags, they are filled with souvenirs and memories one would share back home. As you board the flight and bid goodbye to Moscow you are still yearning for more.
