Jharkhand has been one of the leading producers of silk over the years, taking advantage of that fact Jharcraft, a Government of Jharkhand undertaking, has managed to raise employment and bag international attention. It has strived to make complete use of natural resources and labour power available in the rural areas of the State.
The State is the largest producer of Tassar silk in the country. During 2015-16 when the production was estimated at 2,284 metric tonnes, it contributed to 40 per cent of the total tussar silk production across the country.
Jharcraft provides residential training to groups of people for 30 days to enable them for professions like spinners and weavers. About 1,800 groups of spinners have undergone training and 40,029 people who were involved in training, 17,741 were trained under the women empowerment programme.
“One of the main silk products produced after Tassar silk is Kuchai silk, which is a natural silk that is produced by silk worms nurtured outdoors on live trees and making wild silk available in Kuchai itself but the process of extraction of individual long fibres takes place in Bhagariya, Jharkhand, approximately 46km from the state capital,” said Rajiv, in-charge of handloom in Jharcraft.
The workers are engaged in the extraction work on individual looms in their own households, the means of production are provided by Jharcraft itself. The wages for production of 1 kg silk is around Rs 1,000 based on the quality and in the case of spun silk, it comes down to Rs 600. In the case of weaving, the wages for production of one meter ranges from Rs 40-50.
The average income earned per month ranges from Rs 5,000–7,000 depending upon the quality and amount of work. Each woman associated with Jharcraft manages to earn Rs 4,000–5,000 per month. Overall, all the workers manage an annual income of 50,000 surplus to their main income.
The products are available in various emporiums of Jharcraft but to highlight the exotic Kuchai silk, Jharcraft takes the much necessary steps of organizing expositions called ‘Kuchai Silk Expo’ — the most recent one was held from 7th — 10th September, 2019. The expo invites vendors and artisans from across the country making the experience even more wholesome and at the same time showcasing the indigenous talents of the state. Adding to this already appealing picture is the knowledge that the expos are not limited to the state capital only but extends its branches to the nation state, Delhi, Jammu and Kashmir and also metropolitans like Bangalore.
In today’s cry for organic products where chemicals bring upon the gaze of distaste, one may remain assured because Kuchai Silk remains organic through and through. Both Tusar and Kuchai silk of Jharcraft have been certified Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS). Thus, it provides its consumers violence free as well as organic silk.
Production of indigenous Kuchai silk has helped not only the economy of Jharkhand by rolling in considerable profits but also saved the livelihood of the local tribals who are engaged in this field of work. It has protected a commendable skill and is striving to take it to not only national but international levels.
In 2015, Jharcraft showcased its products at the India Trend Fair in Japan and received positive response. It showcased a line of apparels like Bandi, Kurta and stoles. Further in April of the same year it was invited to be a part of Hannover Messe in Germany where they also received a lot of attention from international companies. The keen interest of different countries encouraged the mayor of Ivory Coast, Ndri Koffi Germain and Chief Justice Ali Yeo to visit the Jharcraft Silk Expo organized in Ranchi, securing Jharcarft an invitation to the expo of Ivory Coast. Kuchai silk has managed to secure orders from Asian countries including China. Malaysia and Dubai and has also instigated interest from Latin America.
