Nagaland, with its rich cultural diversity, stunning natural landscapes, and a unique blend of tribal traditions is a off-roaders paradise. Take a ride with V V Sunder
The northeastern region remains a mystery. Nagaland is one such enigmatic state. All one knows about this state is that the Naga tribes are fierce warriors. But beyond that, not many know that Nagaland has beautiful, well-preserved forests and landscapes and welcoming people. It has numerous uncharted and unexplored terrains replete with difficult roads, making it an off-roaders' paradise. For once, paved roads would look so overrated, once you take an off-road journey!
Driving 4X4s in natural terrains, on unpaved roads, and while navigating steep inclines and rolling hills is the ultimate test of skill. It also puts human endurance to the test. Off-roading into the hinterlands of Nagaland is an exhilarating adventure of a lifetime.
We begin our journey in Dimapur, the second largest city, well connected by air, train, and road with the rest of the country. Our convoy of Thars and Gurkhas travels 70 KM through Kohima, the capital city, to reach Kisama (12 KM). Kisama hosts the well-known annual Hornbill Festival. An hour spent watching vibrant dances and fascinating martial arts performances can forever alter one's perception of the region. The flamboyance and aesthetic sense on display, whether in costumes or handicrafts, are electrifying and magnetic.
After camping in the night, we leave Kisama the next day and head to Kapamodzu via Zapami, Pfutsero, and Zhavame. Kapamodzu offers some incredible views of the sunrise and sunset, and clear night skies. After a near impossible steep incline and gravity defying climb on 4X4, the hilltop spot took our breath away. I could sense that my lungs felt lavishly rewarded with the fresh air. We were just in time to witness the glorious sunset. In this region, the sun rises and sets early and it gets dark from 4 p.m.
We drove our convoy up the hill and camped for the night, taking in all the breathtaking views. One experiences some kind of escape velocity merely gazing at the dark sky, shimmering stars, and the giant moon above. By now, you are cut off from the rest of the world with virtually no cellular network, Google Maps, or navigation to guide you. As the saying goes, "sometimes you find yourself in the middle of nowhere, and sometimes in the middle of nowhere you find yourself." It was one such moment for me. Nagaland Tourism has curated several off-roading routes in the state in collaboration with Wander Beyond Boundaries (WBB) to provide such hidden remote locations and terrain navigation. For first-time visitors, there is even a Nagaland offroad, India's first 4x4 guidebook.
The following morning, we were set for a grueling off-road drive to Lake Shilloi, a terrain that would subject us to further stress tests of endurance, patience, and alertness. We make a scenic descent through a pine forest to the fields by the river and drive via Ziphu to Mollen. The drive takes us through forested tracts till we reach a fork in the road-the left leads to Phor and the right to Lake Shilloi. We cross a small river called Laiyakti and drive past Washelo and Thewati to reach Lake Shilloi. Shilloi Lake is the largest natural lake in Nagaland and a haven for migratory birds. Aside from providing visually stunning and calming views, its inaccessibility is enticing. This entire stretch is 280 km from Kohima and takes up to 16 hours. It is one of the more rugged terrains, with sharp turns, sand, mud, and water filled slushy tracks, steep hills full of stony rocks, boulders, and gravelly tracks, and with dust flying around almost blinding the vision, makes it a challenging yet adventurous route to drive.
After enjoying the tranquility of Shilloi Lake's still waters and gentle drifting mist, we embark on the final stretch of our off-roading journey. En route, we see beautiful waterfalls cascading down the mountains and are ambushed by swarms of mud-puddling butterflies who have put on a show and are only too happy to greet and mingle.
We make a brief stop in Laruri village, which is lush with orchid gardens and famous for its clay pots. Enjoying the crisp sunshine while watching the rolling hills below is a sight to behold. We stop in Chezami village, known for its weaving, before continuing on to Chakabama for the night camp, our final base before heading back to Dimapur. Visitors can purchase a treasure trove of handwoven, unique, brightly colored, intricately designed Naga tribal motif shawls, handicrafts at Chezami. Each piece of fabric is a work of art to be treasured.
Cherry blossom trees, wild blooms, glistening leaves, treacherous streams, gushing waterfalls, bamboo plantations, coniferous forests, steep ascents and descents, slippery inclines, slush and narrow cliffs, and treks covered in rubble, stone, mud, and dust-if beautiful landscapes, extreme terrain driving to remote places, and mud-bathed 4x4s are your thing - visit Nagaland, an incredibly beautiful state with the most welcoming people and an offroader's paradise.
