The blazing red and orange Palash flowers blooming in the arid mountains give Bundelkhand an extraordinarily beautiful texture. And did you know it is the land of Princess Mastani? Text and photos by Vissa Venkata Sundar
Name matters! They are an integral part of the identity. Few names induce mystery, while others have a certain gravitas about them. "Bundelkhand" perhaps evokes both. This is a scenic region nestled in the Vindhya mountain range in the state of Madhya Pradesh and stretches beyond.
Arid and overpowering, the terrain acquires its name from "boond," or a drop of blood in Hindi. a befitting name evoking a strong sensory and emotional appeal, symbolizing the valor of its erstwhile Bundella rulers. It has some renowned architecture and monuments and a stunning skyline that was built centuries ago. The Bundelkhand region offers a heady mix of legendary stories, a cocktail of romance, blood-soaked sacrifices, valiant fights, erotica laced with spiritual underpinnings, heroic revolts, and endless inspiration.
Far from the spotlight and top attractions like Orchha and Khajuraho in the region, Dhubela in the Chhatarpur district is a hidden gem that tourists often skip but that has some captivating stories to tell. It was ruled by the Bundela warrior king Maharaja Chhatrasal (1649-1731), counted as one of the bravest kings and in the league of Maharana Pratap and Chatrapati Shivaji.
Chhatrasal fought the Mughals and finally won the battle in 1730, with the generous support of Maratha Peshwa Baji Rao I. Maharaja Chhatrasal was known as a fiercely independent, valiant, and decisive king who left behind a legacy of sacrifice and love for his people. His dominion stretched from Kalpi to Sagar in the north to Damoh in the south, with Panna (the diamond mine) as its capital.
Chhatrasal was only 12 years old when he accompanied his father on the battlefield. He witnessed the martyrdom (suicide) of his beloved father, Maharaja Champat Rai, when Aurangzeb's army overpowered him. Eventually, his mother committed sati to save her honor. He inherited the struggles of his father at a young age. This led him to a bold and fierce resolve to free Bundelkhand from the Mughals. He repulsed the invaders with his continuous fights and prevailed over the region until the end. He captured several Mughal forts (Kalinjar, Banda, Hamirpur, Jhansi, Jalaun, and Kalpi) in the region. He fought more than 52 battles in his lifetime and died at the age of 82. This legendary tale, like many others, also did not catch the eye of our eminent historians. These larger-than-life stories are sadly consigned to the footnotes of our history.
Maharaja Chhatrasal's modest but opulent palace on the banks of Dhubela Lake has been converted into a museum. It is one of the largest museums in the state and has a huge collection of idols and manuscripts from the 4th to the 16th centuries. There are eight galleries in the museum, and they showcase the inscriptions, copper plates, pillars, lingas, garments, heavy duty guns, weapons, and paintings related to the Gupta, Kalchuri, and Bundela periods. An imposing statue of Maharaja Chhatrasal in the open-air gallery dominates the view. The Jain gallery features intricately carved reliefs and statues. The museum has protected and preserved some of the most irreplaceable historic heritage and legacies of the region. A steady stream of visitors and schoolchildren can be seen thronging the museum, studying the displays with curiosity and muted conversations.
Adjacent to the museum is Mastani Mahal, a palace built by Maharaja Chhatrasal for his daughter Mastani, by now a pop culture icon made famous by the Bollywood movie "Bajirao Mastani." As per the folklore, the King offered the hand of Mastani to Bajirao (as his second wife) and bequeathed a third of his kingdom to him in return for his help in the battle to defeat the Mughals. You may call it a marriage of political convenience, but the story of Bajirao and Mastani took on a life of its own and was the stuff of great romance.
Mastani Mahal is the perfect destination for you to relive the Bollywood cinematic experience. The palace architecture is a unique mix of Mughal and Rajput styles. It comprises beautiful gates, huge patios, staircases, windows, and balconies, all crowned with arches and oval-shaped attractive chhatris, acquiring the signature Bundela style of architecture that you see in this region. The flamboyant costume designs and dramatic headgear that Deepika Padukone wore while playing the role of Mastani in the film have been copied from the motifs adorning the wall and the roof of this palace. It will instantly grab your attention.
Hridayashah was the son of Maharaja Chhatrasal, and the ruins of his palace are situated nearby; it is the biggest monument but in a dilapidated state. However, even today it looks resplendent and glistens in the sun with streaks of fading light pastel colors on its facade. The chhatris (cenotaphs) dotting the skyline in the region are endearing and an everlasting spectacle. It is also a beautiful innovation and exposition of the unique Bundela architecture style. Dhubela offers many vantage points for shutterbugs and history buffs to explore. It is surrounded by other remarkable attractions such as Chausath Yogini Temple (2 km), Bhimkund (1.5 km), and its temples.
It is a place abounding with riveting stories of the brave (King Chhatrasal) and the beautiful (Mastani). Dhubela conceals itself from the outside world, wrapped in thick foliage and dotted with Palash trees (flame of the forest). The blazing red and orange Palash flowers blooming in the arid mountains give Bundelkhand an extraordinarily beautiful texture and character of its own, much like its name. A visit to Dhubela will leave you amazed to discover and experience a hidden heritage gem and an era that remained incognito till now!
