Going to Israel amid an ongoing geo-political disturbance in the region after October 2023, naturally was a matter of concern to family members and friends but for me it was an opportunity to explore a new country, know about its people, its history, culture, cuisine, unique geography and a mechanism to enhance people to people contact. The 8-day trip gave me much more than what I expected and enhanced my understanding about Israel, its beliefs, its vibrant democracy, its history, tourist and religious places, culture, traditions, values and more. Even though the region is disturbed in general and there were loud sirens on a couple of occasions, day-to-day life is absolutely normal with people going about their routine as normally as in any other country I have visited so far.
Air India has a direct 6.30 hours flight to Tel Aviv from IGI Airport New Delhi and on a Tuesday afternoon, it was full, mostly Israelis who were returning after vacations. My co-passenger in the flight was an Israeli Jew with roots in Mumbai as his father had migrated to Israel in 1960 and he still has connections with his country of origin. In fact, we talked to several Israelis on our trip and found that most of them have roots in other countries and they proudly mention the country of their origin from where they migrated in phases beginning the early years of the last century and peaking in the run up to the formation of Israel in 1948. What binds them together is a strong sense of national identity, patriotic values, Judaism and the Hebrew language. They have brought their own culture, traditions and cuisine to Israel which has become a huge melting pot of diverse traditions. My co-passenger Sharon Balker, originally a Bhalkar from Mumbai, said that they followed Indian traditions of Haldi ceremony in weddings, dancing to Bollywood music during festivals and his father still speaks Marathi. Balker knew Marathi only in bits and pieces, a little Hindi and English and was fluent only in Hebrew. But we could easily converse with each other and he showed photographs from his India trip and his family bought a lot of Indian dresses and sweets. The moment the flight landed at the Ben Gurion Airport in Tel Aviv, there was a round of applause for the pilot and the crew with all the passengers joining in the clapping, a first for me in any flight. "Gratitude for a safe journey and physical feel of our holy land," Balker explained to me when asked.
At Immigration, officials issued a green coloured arrival ticket and did not stamp the passport as is the practice in other countries, and soon we boarded a vehicle for a 40-minute journey to the Market House Hotel in Old Jaffa, through the streets with the impressive night skyline. We were told that the heritage building of the hotel once housed the British Agencies after the collapse of the Ottoman Empire and later the Israeli police office before being converted into a heritage hotel. Israel is three and a hours behind India in time and the cellphone watch showed 8 PM in Israel and 11.30 PM in India so we could catch Dinner at Dr Shakshuka Restaurant. "Shalom" or Hello, also an equivalent of peace, was one word which I had learnt of Hebrew and this is what I used in several places, including the first one where we went for dinner. It was the first taste of the food of Israel which is considered as a melting pot of cuisine from around the world. A table full of different cuisine awaited us which the restaurant owner explained, including the country of its origin, ingredients used and the history of the restaurant.
In the morning as we went for a stroll, we could see wall paintings of all hues in the heritage street with eating joints and art workshops dotting the lanes and by-lanes reflecting an old world charm and vibes. The sound of the waves hitting the sea could be heard from a distance and straight away, we headed to the Beach through an alley with a beautiful clock tower. This was the first of the many views we had of the clear Blue-Green waters of the Mediterranean Sea.
Breakfast was sumptuous with different varieties of Cheese thrown in as the locals love it. Never Had I seen so many varieties of Cheese at one table as I found here and then other places in Israel. A strong black Coffee was enough to get rid of the remnants of a Jet lag and we were ready to explore the country in earnest. It was here that our guide Ofer Drori arrived, an eminently likeable and knowledgeable person who had a thorough understanding of each place, history, geography and whatever one wanted to know.
An hour long drive took us to the Caesarea National Park on the Mediterranean coast where the ancient Caesarea Harbour was founded in the late Ist Century BC by King Herod which was the maritime gateway to his kingdom. It was a typical Roman city offering entertainment and pleasure and the ruins have been well preserved and developed. In fact, several of the ruins have been left unexcavated as maybe some future technology would help uncover more secrets of the days before Christ. Roman architecture, amphitheatre, defence of fort, the type of stones used and the importance given to all aspects, reflects the contemporary approach of the ruler towards governance and contact for trade with the other areas of those days. In the centuries to follow, the region became a zone of conflict but in those days, it was a beacon of light as a vibrant outpost of the Roman empire. There are hundreds of Biblical tales and at one place there was an inscription about Pontius Pilatus, the prefect of Judea who presided over the trial of Jesus Christ and perhaps lived there. It's surreal for the Christians around the world to find so many things associated with Jesus in one place and many have moist eyes when they visit these.
After a few pit stops, traversing the highways of Israel, It was time to check in on the 11th Floor of the Leonardo Plaza Hotel in the beautiful town of Tiberias, overlooking the Golan Heights, across which is Syria. It has a massive Lake called the Sea of Galilee. This is of course a lake but has been termed "sea" for centuries as a tradition. Associated with several Biblical stories, Christian pilgrims come here from all over the world to reconnect themselves with the Biblical tales. The view from the balcony was amazing to say the least and could perhaps give a lifetime of memory. Next morning, we had a boat ride in the Sea of Galilee with Edo as the Captain of the Boat and the son of our host a day earlier in the Pagoda Restaurant. He explained all the myths associated with the area, the flora and fauna, types of fishes found, the source of the lake, how once this was part of the Mediterranean Sea before the geological changes took place. It was also an earthquake prone area, dormant volcanoes nearby and in the modern era, a strategically important area as the Golan Heights overlooking Syria is relatively new in Israeli possession, having been with it after the six-day war in 1967. But more importantly, it was Jesus who dominated the conversation. Edo pointed towards a place where a boat was found and the carbon dating suggested that it was of the period when Jesus and his followers were around and it could perhaps have been used by his followers. Christian Pilgrims come to the place to relive those days.
A drive to the Hula Valley Nature Reserve was next on the itinerary where we were told that bird watchers from around the globe come to watch different varieties of local as well as migratory birds. Interestingly, we were told that Mynas, found in abundance in India, have found their way to Israel in this valley and they are becoming sort of a threat to the smaller birds and multiplying in large numbers. The city of Nazareth where Jesus was conceived and grew up, was visible from the highway though we did not immediately go there.
A frugal lunch of Hummus and Pitta Bread followed near a petrol filling station which had a few eateries. The standard of living in Israel is quite high and so are the prices if you compare it with Indian prices of food. It was for 35 Shekel, which is roughly Rs 840. After conversion into Indian currency, a packet of popcorn was for Rs 150. Hummus was quite filling though for the Indian palate, you need to add some spices and top up it with green chillies to get the desired flavour.
The drive then took us to the port city of Haifa. A stunning view of the Harbour area from the top of the hill was the highlight, perhaps one of the most enchanting views in the country. In the backdrop of the stunning Baha'i Gardens, it was indeed mesmerising. It was then time to check into a new hotel in the Germany Colony--Schumacher Hotel, a typical German name with European architecture, just below the hills where the Baha'i Gardens are located. The lady at the reception had advised us to go to the 7th Floor of the Hotel and this is what I did the first thing in the morning. Stunning view of the Haifa harbour on one side and then of the Baha'i Garden or temple whatever you call it on the other, was magical in the first rays of the morning. We went to a cemetery of the fallen Indian soldiers of the First World War. It was immaculately maintained and the names of Sikh and HIndu soldiers of the British Indian army were inscribed on the stone tomb. A moment of reflection for the forgotten heroes as they fought for the British Empire in faraway lands and even in death, they could not go to their motherland. It was something similar to India Gate where the names of martyrs in the British Indian army had been inscribed.
HOLY CITY OF JERUSALEM
After a poignant moment of reflection, we started our drive to the historic and holy city of Jerusalem besides the Mediterranean Ocean. It was wonderful watching the waves hitting the shores rhythmically, hardly 50 metres from the edge of the road, giving the best of what nature could offer to the eye. Ofer told us about the 1948 Arab-Israeli war and how the Arab militias blockaded the corridor from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem, preventing essential supplies from reaching the Jewish population. There are hills on both sides of the highway and the Arab militia had placed themselves strategically on top and this resulted in heavy casualties. Israel lost 1 percent of its then population in the war in which it ultimately emerged victorious. Stiil, there are remnants of that war with vehicles and tanks lined up on both sides of the road to remind the visitors how tough it was during the initial days of the formation of the new country. This blockade was broken after a few weeks by Jewish militias, many of whom are considered folk heroes of the country.
As we were on our way to Jerusalem, stories and mythologies which I had come to know in childhood about the three religions which found home here in the course of human existence, came vividly to memory. I felt for a moment, was it real? Yes, it indeed was as we got down near the Jaffa Gate of the Walled city on a very cold, windy and rainy day. Israelis consider any rain as a blessing due to the arid nature of the land and it has been raining for the last couple of days, making us feel the chill for which we were hardly prepared. Over a period of 2500 years, several emperors and conquerors made Jerusalem their own and contributed to the legacy and historicity of this great city of the world. Also, this made it a zone of conflict down the ages, located on a strategic part of the world where three religions thrived--Judaism, Islam and Christianity.
Entering through the Jaffa Gate was revisiting history itself. Despite the weather, we soon found ourselves on the topmost part of the Fort from where the historic Al Aqsa Mosque, the third holiest shrine for the followers of Islam after Mecca and Medina was visible in all its glory and so was the golden yellow Dome of the Rock. I had Shawarma for 58 Shekels (around Rs 1400) in the Christian Quarter in an eatery owned by an Arab Muslim for lunch and Black Coffee.
In the morning, we were soon exploring one of the most historic and significant cities of the world where several civilisations and empires thrived and competed for in the last over 2000 years. We were putting up at Cassia Hotel on King David Street, very close to the historic and old city where three Abrahamic faiths--Judaism, Christianity and Islam coexisted, came into conflict with each other and are again coexisting in modern times. We started with the Ramparts Walk, practically on the walls, giving us a kaleidoscopic view of the old city and the new Jerusalem, a unique experience indeed.
As all students of contemporary history know, the Old City has four quarters-- The Jewish Quarter, The Armenian Quarter, The Christian Quarter, and The Muslim Quarter and there are seven entry gates. We entered through the busiest of them---the Jaffa Gate next to which is the Tower of David Museum, providing the history of Jerusalem within the Old City Walls. Each quarter has its own unique atmosphere and observations, sites and smells, and experiences. We began the day with Ramparts
The Old City of Jerusalem, a one-kilometer area, is home to the Western Wall, the last remaining wall of what was once the Jewish Temple. It is today the holiest site in the world for Jews. Pilgrims and tourists from all over the world visit this place and place their written wish in the crevices of the historic wall and ask for blessings. I too had one, wrote it down earlier and placed it amongst the millions of wishes which people have stuck in these walls for centuries. As it was Saturday, a day of Shabbat for the Jews which begins on Friday evenings, all shops were closed in the Jewish Quarter. A day before, we had seen how the orthodox Jews were forcing the closure of the markets in the evenings even as the youngsters were enjoying themselves in music and dance.
Above the Western Wall lies the Dome of the Rock, which is important for Muslims as the site where the prophet Muhammad was thought to rise to heaven. The Al-Aqsa Mosque is in the same complex, the third most holy place for Muslims around the world after those in Saudi Arabia. Non-Muslims were not allowed in the complex due to Ramadan and from a distance, I prayed for peace and co-existence. The Muslim Quarter is a huge contrast to the Jewish Quarter as its streets are busier and more crowded, with vendors selling all varieties of products--handicrafts, souvenirs, halva, multi-coloured chocolates and candies, clothes, decoratives, brass items, you name it and they have it. This was like an ancient shopping mall or the Shooks in the Arab World where everything is sold or bartered. The same vibe exists even today. I got 100 USD exchanged here where I got 360 Shekels for it.
Just a few minutes’ walk away lies the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. This is where Jesus Christ was crucified and buried. We took the same route from where Jesus was made to walk 2000 years ago. It was a surreal experience, walking on the same route and visualising what Jesus would have gone through. Many Christian pilgrims had brought their Cross and were reciting holy prayers all the way to the different stations connected with this journey which ended at what is now the Church of Holy Sepulchre. Despite the passage of several centuries, the Church remains one of the most architecturally significant buildings of the time where every aspect of the life and times of Jesus gets vivid in front of you. Several Christian pilgrims had moist eyes, touching and praying fervently as they passed through all those places mentioned in the Bible. In fact, my prayer and wish in the old city of Jerusalem was of peace, brotherhood between different religious groups and celebration of differences rather than looking at it as an issue of conflict.
Moving on, it was time to explore some modern parts of Jerusalem. We rode the EZ Raider, a four wheeled electric scooter on the pavements in the newer parts of the city, around some of the most luxurious hotels of the city for around an hour. Unadulterated fun indeed. Our host Doron guided us through the driving mechanism and led us on the pathway and took photographs as well. The young entrepreneur had visited India and told us that he loved our country.
The view from the 9th Floor of Cassia Hotel was like watching Diwali with lights fluttering in the distance or a million stars dancing to their glory in a clear sky. Something to cherish and remember forever.
As it was Friday, a day of Shabbat for the Jews, we had been invited to a Jewish Home for traditional Shabbat dinner to have a feel how they celebrate and what they eat on the day. Roads were deserted, markets closed and off we went to the apartment of Shanina Touson in the area of Jerusalem which has been developed in recent years. Shanina and her family, two kids and husband were welcoming and made us feel at home. Shabbat prayer, breaking bread and Wine and a home cooked traditional meal was an experience to remember. The family helped us know the meaning of Shabbat Shabbat, the Jewish Day of Rest. Shabbat happens each week from sunset on Friday to sunset on Saturday and during Shabbat, Jewish people remember the story of creation from the Torah where God created the world in 6 days and rested on the 7th day.
After the walk of the old city of Jerusalem and different Quarters, we went to see the Israel Museum, considered one of the best in the world which offers a unique perspective to the rise and fall of different kingdoms, how civilization and religions evolved, art, architechitecture, paintings and what not. Checked my app on the phone and it indicated that I had walked 10.5 kms, enough for the day.
