Historian Vikramjit Singh Rooprai led a captivating Heritage Walk through Purana Qila, offering participants a blend of history and architectural insights. This immersive experience highlighted the fort’s significance, revealing hidden stories and the interconnectedness of its historical and ecological aspects, writes SAKSHI PRIYA
As part of his second series of the Delhi Heritage series, historian and author Vikramjit Singh Rooprai led an insightful walk through Purana Qila, one of Delhi’s most famous and second-most visited forts. Inspired by his upcoming book, Delhi Heritage: Top 10 Forts, this exclusive Heritage Walk offered a select group of history enthusiasts rare insights and thoughtful details about the fort that are not widely known. Against the backdrop of the ancient walls of Purana Qila, Rooprai embarked on a journey to unravel the secrets of this historic fort, blending myth, history and architecture as he explored one of Delhi’s most significant yet often overlooked monuments.
Purana Qila or the “Old Fort,” is one of Delhi’s oldest forts, with a history that stretches back centuries. It is often overshadowed by more famous landmarks like the Red Fort and Qutub Minar, yet it holds a crucial place in the narrative of Delhi’s evolution. The fort’s origins are shrouded in mystery, with legends linking it to the ancient city of Indraprastha, the legendary capital of the Pandavas from the Mahabharata. Rooprai, with his deep knowledge and passion for Delhi’s history, made it clear that much of this association is based on later folklore rather than historical evidence. The fort as we see it today is primarily the work of two great rulers, Emperor Humayun and Sher Shah Suri, whose contributions to its construction have left a lasting legacy.
The exploration began at the grand entrance of the fort, the Bada Darwaza, where the sheer scale and architectural prowess of the structure immediately impressed upon visitors the importance of this site in Delhi’s history. Rooprai explained how this massive gate, with its towering height and intricate carvings, served as a formidable barrier, protecting the fort’s inhabitants from invaders. The Bada Darwaza, like much of the fort, reflects a blend of Islamic and Hindu architectural styles, a syncretism that has always been a hallmark of Delhi’s culture. This gate is not just an entrance but a symbol of the fort’s strategic importance in the defense of the city.
As the group moved deeper into the fort, Rooprai guided them towards the imposing Talaqi Darwaza, a gate that remained sealed for centuries until it was rediscovered in the early 20th century. The name “Talaqi,” meaning “separation,” intrigued many. Rooprai mentioned that if we look closely at the interior detailing at the top of Talaqi Darwaza, we can still see some remnants of its original colors, a subtle yet vivid reminder of the fort’s rich past. He narrated how this gate, with its intricate carvings and lofty chhatris (domed pavilions), had been sealed shortly after its construction, its purpose shrouded in mystery. Some historians speculate that it might have been closed due to superstitions or security concerns, while others believe it was simply never completed. As Rooprai spoke, it was easy to imagine the fort as it once was, a bustling hub of activity, a place where history was made.
One of the most captivating aspects of the walk was Rooprai’s discussion about the inscriptions near Talaqi Darwaza, discovered by the British during their restoration efforts. These inscriptions implore the preservation of “the house of Humayun,” adding a layer of intrigue to the fort’s history and sparking curiosity about their true meaning. During the walk, Vikramjit emphasised the challenges of accessing historical resources, sharing anecdotes about the British efforts to clean and preserve the gates. These efforts uncovered inscriptions pleading to “save this house of Humayun,” a phrase that sparked debate among historians. Some interpreted it as a reference to Emperor Humayun, while others saw it as a metaphorical plea to protect the sanctity of the site.
The architectural grandeur of Purana Qila is not just limited to its gates. The fort’s walls, towering over the surrounding landscape, are a witness to the engineering prowess of the time. Built using large stone blocks, the walls are interspersed with bastions and watchtowers, which would have provided a vantage point for the fort’s defenders. Rooprai pointed out the changes that had occurred over the centuries, especially the eastern wall, which once overlooked the Yamuna River. The river, which has since shifted its course, played a crucial role in the fort’s defense, providing a natural barrier against invaders. Today, the fort’s strategic location remains evident, offering stunning views of the city and a reminder of its importance in Delhi’s history.
Ecological insights were also an integral part of Rooprai’s narrative. He highlighted the green layer on the lake within the fort, which plays a crucial role in supporting various forms of life, including fish and birds. This lake, once a part of the Yamuna River’s floodplain, has now become an isolated water body. Rooprai discussed how the lake’s ecosystem is a delicate balance, with the green algae on the surface providing oxygen for aquatic life while also serving as a breeding ground for insects that are crucial for the survival of birds and other animals. Any disruption to this delicate ecosystem could have a significant impact, underscoring the interconnectedness of human history and the natural environment.
The tour culminated at Humayun Darwaza, another significant gate of the fort. Rooprai highlighted how much of the fort’s construction, including these gates, may have been initiated by Humayun himself, despite the popular attribution to Sher Shah Suri. The Humayun Darwaza, with its grand archways and intricate tile work, stands as a symbol of the Mughal emperor’s ambition to create a lasting legacy. The fort’s story, Rooprai noted, is one of resilience, evidence to a city that has been built, destroyed and rebuilt countless times. Through this walk, Rooprai not only guided the visitors through the physical space of Purana Qila but also through the complex narrative of Delhi’s history. He emphasised that while Purana Qila is often overshadowed by more famous structures like the Red Fort, it remains an essential part of Delhi’s heritage, a silent witness to the city’s evolution.
The active involvement of a 14-year-old boy during the walk was particularly noteworthy. Deeply engrossed in the exploration, the boy actively engaged with Vikramjit, asking thoughtful questions that enriched the experience for everyone present. His curiosity and enthusiasm reflected the walk’s success in sparking interest across different age groups, showing the importance of making history accessible and exciting for all generations. The boy’s questions ranged from the significance of the inscriptions to the architectural details of the fort and Rooprai patiently answered each one, providing insights that captivated both the young participant and the older attendees.
As the tour came to an end, Rooprai left the group with a deeper appreciation for this ancient site. Purana Qila was no longer just an old fort but a living part of Delhi’s rich and varied history, a place where myths and facts converge, creating a story that is both beautiful and complex. Through his insights, Rooprai had brought Purana Qila to life, making the past palpable and the stories within its walls a part of the present. The fort’s layers of history, from its ancient origins to its role in the Mughal Empire, were laid bare, offering a glimpse into the lives of those who walked its grounds centuries ago.
Vikramjit Singh Rooprai’s approach to history is not only informative but also deeply engaging. His ability to work together factual history with the legends surrounding Purana Qila makes the past resonate with present-day audiences. He reminds us that history is not just about dates and events but about the stories of people, places and cultures that have shaped our world. This walk was more than just a tour - it was a journey through time, offering a rare insight into the layers of history that have shaped Delhi. It’s clear that such events are crucial in building a deeper appreciation for the rich heritage that surrounds us. Rooprai’s work is a tribute to the importance of preserving and sharing our history, ensuring that future generations can continue to learn from and be inspired by the past.
The Heritage Walk at Purana Qila was an enlightening experience that left the participants with a profound respect for the history and architecture of one of Delhi’s oldest forts. Through Rooprai’s expert guidance, the group gained not only knowledge but also a sense of connection to the city’s past. The walk was a reminder that history is all around us, waiting to be discovered and that by exploring it, we can gain a better understanding of the world we live in today.
Photos: Pankaj Kumar
