There is little to complain if the ancient gastronomic delights from the bustling streets of Dilli 6 intersect with the regal fare of Lucknow’s Awadhi Chowk, right in the heart of modern Delhi. It is a rare symphony, says Shobori Ganguli

For ages, food critics and connoisseurs have engaged in passionate discourses on how the royal Mughlai cuisine of Dilli stands out in sharp contrast to its regal Awadhi counterpart in Lucknow, a debate that rages on. While both define North India’s rich culinary heritage and both spilt out of the ancient quarters of royal kitchens to occupy modern-day street food outlets of these two historic cities, it takes a magician to synchronise the two.

With Chapter 4 of Farage: Northern Meanders, Chef Anuj Kapoor, Director of Culinary at Radisson Blu Hotel in Greater Noida, delivers this impossible magic of harmony with precision. From the bustling chaos of Old Delhi’s streets to the serene ambience of Awadh’s royal courts, Chef Kapoor employs his nostalgia of childhood and college years spent in Lucknow and his enviable professional experience in Old Delhi’s Mughlai lanes and bylanes to curate an innovative six-course meal, meticulous attention paid to each spice and ingredient.

The meal started off with a fiery welcome shot of Tikha Mango, the salt and chili rimmed glass of aam panna a welcome relief in Delhi’s sizzling May heat. The Amuse Bouche gently opened the gates to Dilli 6 ki Nagori, Methde Aloo, Kachalu, a delectable offering of a golgappa sized puri with filling. A real taste of Delhi is incomplete without some wholesome Chaat. So Chef Kapoor had a platter ready with Kulle ki Chaat served with a not-too-sour Kanji with a jalapeno and Ram Laddoo skewer.

The Nakkhas Masala Panko Soft Shell Crab Aragula and Orange was a tantalsing appetizer on offer. Unfortunately, for Delhi, seafood meanders its way into kitchens through freezers, compromising its freshness. While the taste of the crab and the crispiness of the batter worked well on the palate, it is my personal observation that deep fried Indian food, North to South, East to West, is difficult to master in large kitchens. They tend to get fried and re-fried, leaving that slight hint of used oil. These are best left to home kitchens or road side eateries. The vegetarian opition of Ambi, Hari Mirch Ganderi Paneer Tinka may perhaps have been a better choice.

That said, the Entrée opened the floodgates of gastronomic indulgence. The Gosh ki Galawat served atop a Biscooti Roti that Chef Kapoor had quite obviously paid personal attention to, was an amazingly innovative combination. The taste lingered on long after the meal was over. For the vegetarians there was, of course, the Chakundar ki Galawat.

This was followed by the main course in which Chef Kapoor refined and redefined the decadent Nalli Nihari to a level of sophistication difficult to match. The Chowk ka Nalli Nihari Wellington indeed transported one to an epicurean heaven. A clear winner, this masterpiece blended the iconic Wellington-style pastry with the refined flavours of pulled Nalli Nihari mutton. This innovative dish symbolised Chef Kapoor’s unique gift of framing culinary history in a contemporary context. There was Jumbo Prawn Khorma on offer alongside the vegetarian Aminabad Masala Portobello, Gucchi, Qar-e-Pukhtan.

Chef Kapoor has a signature inaugural, informal talk before laying out the table for his patrons. At the beginning of each Farage, he talks about the inspiration informing the menu, of how Dilli 6 is better known for its vegetarian fare considering the Old City has a fair share of vegetarian traders and merchants, and similar such priceless nuggets of culinary history.

I left the venue with the taste of an extremely flavourful and aromatic Chowk ki Gilouri, transporting me to the bylanes of Lucknow that I remember only too well.

Factsheet

Farage Chapter 4: Northern Meanders

Venue: Satin, Radisson Blu, Greater Noida