Christy Varghese visits Green Mantis to sample some of their mouth-watering (mostly) vegan fare
It was a rainy day and we were cursing our luck because of all the days when we could have left our trusty umbrella at home, it had to be on the day that it rained.
We were at Khan Market, New Delhi, and we had our back to wall, quite literally, as we sought shelter from the sudden downpour beneath one of the many recesses that are spread across the sprawling marketplace. As our stomach grumbled for some much-needed grub after all that aimless walking around, we spotted a recess which stood out among the hustle and bustle.
Green Mantis, announced the humble signage. Since we respect research, we did some quick reading on the place before we stepped in. And from what we read, the establishment was declared as ‘a pan-Asian restaurant unlike any other’. Well, we chanced upon some glowing reviews and had to verify whether the place was worth the hype, first-hand.
In hindsight, if it was not raining we would not have gained admission so easily, as it would have been hard to find an unreserved table. However, we were in without much hassle and it was only after we were done figuratively gallivanting across the cuisines of several countries that we came to appreciate how the rain waylaid our plans. Goes to show that at times what might seem like an inconvenience, is probably the universe conspiring for you. But that’s enough of beating around the bush, and on to the ‘plant-forward fare’ that we were treated to.
As soon as we sat down, the diligent staff brought out a platter full of chana crackers and an assortment of various freshly-made sambals. We scratched our head for a bit, since we had barely sat down and had not ordered anything, before proceeding to sample each one of them. That is when the establishment’s partner, chef and co-founder, Honey Piyush Mishra appeared right on cue to explain that serving the crackers and sambals is a custom they religiously follow with every patron, encouraging us to try each one out.
While the sambal is traditionally an Oriental hot relish, Green Mantis had some desi alternatives too. Along with the delectable Sambal olec and somewhat chili Sambal balado, we also partook of the sambals that were based in black peas (this was overloaded with garlic) and sweet onion. We highly recommend the Sambal olec, as we felt it goes with everything you order from the establishment.
Mishra set the ball rolling with Laphings. We know what you are thinking, that word conjures some really spicy memories from Majnu Ka Tila, right? But these looked, and tasted, starkly different from the ones we were used to cautiously eating. These were cold mung bean rolls, with peanuts, tomatoes and chili sauce. Yes, it was chili, but to an extent that we could bear, and relish. We scarfed the whole lot in no time, and we bet you would not be able to restrain yourself from doing the same.
Moving on, we were served three variants of dim sums. Once again, Sambal olec went really well with each one of them. The pan-seared Pumpkin pot sticker was our hot favoourite, with its curried pumpkin and cream cheese overwhelming our palate with its rich flavours. Simply munching on them felt like a gross injustice, hence we took our time with the dumplings, allowing each one to melt in our mouth slowly after the initial bite. The assorted Mushroom dumplings and Ginger shiitake gyoza were also worth mentioning, with their respective distinct flavours. But they were no match for the Pumpkin pot stickers.
Along with the main course, Mishra alsa sat at our table, enquiring how good the food was. Well, we were busy stuffing ourselves, which served as an appropriate response, to his delight. As we helped ourselves to the Indonesian Rendang Bao, our conversation drifted to the cosy setting that we were seated in. Mishra shared that when they sat down with the proprietors of the place to discuss the possibilities of the establishment, they were not open to the idea that the restaurant’s menu would be primarily plant-based. However, they relented, and are now reaping the rewards.
“Yes, we took a bold risk. The entire idea was to be a little different from other pan-Asian establishments. We did not want to play with hot and sour soup or manchurian, for that matter. We don't do any of that, all our dimsums are absolutely different from what you would get anywhere else. We play with the flavours and while taking inspiration from other cuisines, we have come up with our own distinct taste. Go on and help yourself to the Rendang Bao, how does it taste? Let me tell you, it tastes a lot different back home,” expressed Mishra.
To the unwary, the dish might almost seem like chicken. Similarly, he cautioned us that some dishes are not vegan, like the Vegan ‘scallop’ motoyaki, which contained some mozzarella cheese. However, we had no such reservations and did not have to tread carefully with the dish made of king oyster mushrooms.
