The café at Pusa Road brings all things distant under one roof, yet successfully combines them, says Chahak Mittal

You are exactly where you need to be,’ is the first thing one reads as one enters Banter Delhi. I wondered if that would really turn out to be true once I got inside and tried to feel the place. Tucked away in the most unusual corner in the central part of the city on the Pusa Road, far from the madding crowd — spoiler alert — the café is certainly the place to be if you’re looking for some relaxation, inexpensive bites or some masterchef-like spreads and off-kilter experiences after work — even on Tuesdays.

The café, segregated into two parts, was a fusion of all things distant — indoors and outdoors. While one could find a mishmash of cozy and comfortable, home-like vibes inside with glass cabins all around the café, one could also sink in the warm ambience, the pleasant vibe and the live music outside which the café offers, sipping one’s favourite cocktails with some exotic fusions.

As I ran my eyes over the menu, I realised that the café’s USP was to combine all the things which are conventionally not supposed to be together. For instance, dishes like Red curry bhaji-stuffed doughnut, Butter chicken pizza, Paneer flies to China, Watermelon and feta chaat, Pindi chana hummus.

Well, the latter one attracted me the most. And I wondered whether it was the fascination and love for hummus or the pindi chana interference in it? I never realised the answer to this polarising question. Luckily, I didn’t have to find an answer to it here. All thanks to the dish, which did all the justice to both hummus and chana or chickpea. The hummus, flavoured with pindi-style spices, was served with grilled Mediterranean-spiced kulcha. The kulcha perfectly replaced the pita bread and complemented the spread, which, at once, melted inside my mouth due to its smooth and creamy texture. I was perplexed at the thought of why hummus has such a funny place in the food world. People either love it or they’re quite unsure of what it is.

Next up were the Cheesy masala fries. The presentation of the fries, dusted with tandoori seasoning and topped with creamy cheese sauce, did excite me after its first glance, however, failed to make a lasting impression on my tastebuds. Even though the fries were perfectly fried and crisp, its bland cheesy sauce made the whole experience fall to the ground.

The next dish that caught my fancy was the Shanker Market tawa aloo bruschetta. Yes, potato and bruschetta are completely distant things and one might find it difficult to replace tangy cherry tomatoes with crisp, fried potatoes. However, the crispy garlic baguette, topped with spicy tawa aloo chaat along with chopped onion and tomato, made all the sense due to its aptly balanced flavours. And isn’t this what fusion cuisine is all about? Putting the best of two cultures and creating edible masterpiece. As food experts suggest, fusion food is about mixing of memory with technique and ideology. And this Italian-Indian duo certainly proved that right.

The Penne primavera pasta was the next in line. Just as the café’s theme aims to put in focus all kinds of demands of today’s youth and their dining time, pasta is a dish, which usually never goes un-tasted. It’s the most preferred of all. So I thought, why not the pasta? As I bit into the first piece, I could sense the bechamel sauce, garlic, peppers, broccoli, zucchini, parmesan, thyme, extra virgin olive oil and the fresh parsley, however, I couldn’t feel its taste. Its white cream was bland and couldn’t keep up with its ‘primavera’ quality. For those who don’t know, it is a term used for a pasta dish, which is made with lightly sauteed spring vegetables. Even the oregano sprinkles on the top didn’t help here.

The last was the Kuch Nai pizza. I was smitten by the wispy trails of aroma that rose from the pan of the square-shaped Margherita. On the taste side, its crust was thin and crisp, and its mozzarella cheese was perfectly puffed and melting.

With the fresh cherry tomatoes and basil on the top, it was a hit of the evening. Sometimes, there are questions about the grammar of fusion and unlikely experiment. Banter may not always get that delicate balance right. But it gives you an explosion  of rounded flavours once in a while, and that is good to go.