Join us as we embark on a transformative journey through the winding lanes and storied landmarks of Ramgarh, where the past intertwines with the present in a vibrant tapestry of tradition, resilience, and hope. Text and photographs by Gyaneshwar Dayal

Nestled amidst the arid plains of Rajasthan, India, lies the quaint and non-descript town of Ramgarh Shekhawati. Steeped in history and adorned with intricate havelis (traditional mansions), this hidden gem is a testament to the rich cultural heritage of the region. Time stands still in Ramgarh Shekhawati, as the town stands as a living chronicle of bygone eras, while simultaneously embracing modernity. Today, efforts by organisations like the Shruti Foundation, INTACHShekhawati chapter and Vedaaranya Healing seek to revive and preserve its legacy, ensuring that its charm endures for generations to come.

Historical Needlepoint

Ramgarh Shekhawati traces its origins back to the 17th century when it was established by the Poddar merchant community. Situated along the ancient trade routes, the town flourished as a bustling centre of commerce, art, and culture. Its prosperity during the heyday of the Marwari traders is reflected in the opulent havelis that adorn its streets.

These havelis, with their intricately carved facades, vibrant frescoes, and ornate architecture, served as symbols of wealth and social status. They also bore testimony to the artistic prowess of the craftsmen who meticulously adorned them with scenes from Indian religious and cultural narratives, folklore, the musical instruments, the flora and fauna and other prevalent objects and applications of the time. Each haveli narrates a story, preserving the essence of a bygone era within its walls. There are more than 200 havelis and over 30 chhatris or cenotaphs, intricately carved braving the heat and dust customary to the region. Add to them as many wells and Johads,which are no longer in use but stand as testimony to the life and lifestyle of the bygone era. In Shekhawati, earning the title of ‘Seth’ required a different approach. One had to undertake at least seven acts of public good, such as constructing besides their own Haveli, a Chhatri for travellers, a temple, a well, a water harvesting Johad, creating a gaushala for cows, a dharamshala , a Vidyalaya, an ayurvedic rasayanshala for the community. While times may have changed, the seven or more wooden carved levels on entry doors in Shekhawati symbolising a Seths status still speak volumes. They did not solely indicate wealth, but rather the generosity and benevolence of the owner on seven levels or more for the people.

Present State of Havelis

Despite their historical significance, many of Ramgarh Shekhawati’s havelis have fallen into disrepair over the years. Neglect, mindless construction and the passage of time have taken their toll on these architectural marvels, with fading frescoes and crumbling facades threatening to erase their splendour forever. Ramgarh Shekhawati as suffered the betrayal of its own people. The generations of opulent Seths mostly turned their back of Ramgarh and never returned, some left caretakers to look after the havelis who didn’t mind conniving with the usurpers of the wealth of the havelies

However, amidst the dilapidation, there remains a glimmer of hope. Efforts by local authorities and heritage enthusiasts are underway to conserve and restore these havelis, breathing new life into their weathered walls. The preservation of Ramgarh Shekhawati’s cultural heritage has become a rallying cry for those who recognize the importance of safeguarding the town’s legacy for future generations.

The conservation efforts

At theAt the forefront of this conservation movement is the Shruti Foundation, a non-profit organization dedicated to the preservation of India’s architectural heritage. Through initiatives focused on restoration, documentation, and community engagement, the foundation is working tirelessly to revive the splendour of Ramgarh Shekhawati’s havelis. And it is not just the havelis but its mandate goes beyond the architecture and touches people’s life, reviving their craft, providing them employment and purpose.

One such endeavour is the restoration project undertaken by the Shruti Foundation, beginning with the restoration of part of the Ramgarh Fort and various Havelies of Ramgarh Shekhawati, including the beautiful Deepchand Kishanlal poddar Haveli, Vedaaranya Haveli and MOHAR Haveli. Shruti Nada Poddar, Convener, INTACH Shekhawati Chapterinvited INTACH Architectural division,which resurrected the unique Ramgarh Shekhawati Veda temple, the only Veda temple in India dedicated to Vedas and not deities!

The Genesis

Legend has it that Ramgarh Shekhawati owes its existence to a poignant tale of love and resilience. Once ridiculed by her own family for not having a rich kingdom, the Queen of Sikar kingdom, whose family were the rich king and queen of Churu, returned to her husband, the king of Sikar Kingdom, and went into isolation, giving up food and water. In response to her adamant demand for a new and most rich and beautiful town ever, the Sikar maharaja called the wealthy merchants of Churu, the Poddars,and requested them to cross over with seven families.

The Poddar Seths agreed to cross over from Churu to Sikar and build a new town as never before under the following conditions -They would be granted the region they picked, they would pay zero tax, they would rule the town themselves, with their own administration and their own law and order, and last but not the least, they will not sit below the king,.

Having no choice, the King agreed. Thus, Ramgarh Sethan (Ramgarh of the Seths) the only town in the world not ruled by the King in the 18th and 19th century was born, emerging as a testament to the power of love and determination.

Thus, from the crucible of royal decree and entrepreneurial pact, the resplendent enclave of Ramgarh Shekhawati emerged, forever enshrined as the “Ramgarh Sethan” — the bastion of opulence and prosperity.It flourished as one of the richest town of that era with the highest per capita income in the world in 1900.

Preserving the Legacy

In addition to its stunning havelis and ongoing restoration efforts, Ramgarh Shekhawati boasts a rich tapestry of cultural traditions that further enrich its allure. The town is home to a lineage of knowledgeable vaids or Ayurvedic doctors, carrying forward centuries-old healing traditions. Their expertise in holistic wellness adds another layer to Ramgarh Shekhawati’s cultural heritage, offering visitors a glimpse into the ancient wisdom of India’s traditional medicine systems.

The last ten years have been truly magnificent in the life of Ramgarh Shekhawati.It is seeing a turnaround and it is visible right from the railway station, adoring beautiful frescos and giving a glimpse of the town to visitors looking for a cultural experience.

Furthermore, no visit to Ramgarh Shekhawati would be complete without indulging in its culinary delights. Authentic Rajasthani cuisine, renowned for its bold flavours and aromatic spices, takes centrestage here. From savoury dal baatichurma to decadent ghevar, to Vedaaranya Haveli’s special cuisine including bajre ka Upoma, every dish tells a story of the region’s culinary heritage, inviting visitors to savour the tastes of tradition.

Moreover, the town’s rich artistic heritage extends beyond its architectural wonders. Local artisans continue to uphold traditional crafts such as handloom weaving with katran (recycled cloth), beadwork, dollmaking, lac bangle making, and infusing each creation with the spirit of Rajasthan’s vibrant culture. With increasing support and recognition, these crafts are experiencing a revival, ensuring that their legacy endures for generations to come.

One notable event that celebrates Ramgarh Shekhawati’s cultural heritage is the VHAH Fest (Vedaaranya Heritage and Healing Festival) since 2016. This annual celebration showcases the town’s rich traditions to the world, drawing visitors from far and wide to experience its enchanting beauty and cultural diversity. Through heritage walks, exhibitions, performances, and workshops in the old world ambience of its Fort and its havelies,, the festival serves as a platform and a fascinating journey of awareness and appreciation of Ramgarh Shekhawati’s great heritage, fostering a deeper connection with its past and present.

As efforts to preserve and promote Ramgarh Shekhawati’s heritage continue, there is growing recognition of its significance on the global stage. With over 200 intricately carved havelis dotting the small town, Ramgarh Shekhawati stands as a testament to the architectural brilliance of yesteryears. It may well be on its way to earning UNESCO World Heritage status, joining the ranks of the world’s most cherished cultural treasures.

As the sun sets over the limestone facades and winding lanes of Ramgarh Shekhawati, it whispers tales of a glorious past and a promising future. In its havelis, streets, and traditions, the town embodies the essence of Rajasthan’s timeless charm, inviting travellers to embark on a journey through history, culture, and heritage. Ramgarh Shekhawati stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of India’s cultural legacy.

Ramgarh Shekhawati embarks on a journey of revival and rejuvenation, the efforts of organisations like the Shruti Foundation and INTACH serve as beacons of hope. Through their dedication and perseverance, they are fostering a sense of cultural identity and pride among its inhabitants. With each stroke of the brush and each brick laid in place, the town’s havelis are being transformed into living monuments, testifying to the resilience of the human spirit and the enduring power of heritage. In the heart of Rajasthan’s desert landscape, Ramgarh Shekhawati stands as a timeless reminder of the beauty of the past and the potential of the future. It also reminds us what we can do to our heritage if we turn our back on it.

Shruti Foundation: A personal journey

In the heart of Ramgarh Shekhawati In the heart of Ramgarh Shekhawati beats the pulse of a revitalization movement led by the indomitable spirit of Shruti Poddar. A scion of the illustrious Poddar family, the creators of Ramgarh Shekhawati, Shruti Nada Poddar embarked on a deeply personal journey to breathe life into the faded glory of her ancestral town. With unwavering resolve and a singular focus, she founded the Shruti Foundation, a beacon of hope for the preservation and restoration of Ramgarh Shekhawati’s heritage. She also heads INTACH Shekhawati chapter, covering tree districts of Rajasthan and has won accolades for her single-handed efforts at bringing Ramgarh Shekhawati ion the world map.

Shruti’s connection to the Indian cultural ethos runs deep, which led her back to India from her life in the UK, to a promised land she unwittingly dreamed of, surprisingly and intuitively led her back to the abandoned land of her ancestors,Heartbroken with the decay and destruction of this astonishing town, the decay of the town’s once-majestic havelis and the erosion of its cultural identity over a entury, she was spurred into action. Determined to reclaim the town’s lost splendour, Shruti returned to her roots, armed with a vision of renewal and a commitment to effect change, fuelled by a profound sense of duty towards this great land, its tangible and intangible heritage, its local communities, particularly the power of the women and the indigenous greatness of this great land of patronage of knowledge and culture, also called Doosra Kashi. Over the span of a mere decade, Shruti’s tireless efforts have borne fruit, transforming the landscape of Ramgarh Shekhawati in remarkable ways. From the moment one steps off the train at the railway station, the signs of rejuvenation are unmistakable. Some of the dilapidated facades have been lovingly restored, vibrant murals adorn once-muted walls. Shruti’s approach to revitalising Ramgarh Shekhawati is characterised by a blend of innovation and tradition. She has spearheaded initiatives to revive traditional crafts, promote eco-tourism, and empower local artisans. Through the Shruti Foundation’s collaborative efforts with the community, heritage conservationists, and government agencies, Ramgarh Shekhawati is experiencing a renaissance of sorts.

Yet, perhaps the most awe-inspiring aspect of Shruti’s journey is her unwavering commitment to the cause. Her passion is infectious, inspiring others to rally behind her vision and join the movement to revitalise Ramgarh Shekhawati.