Food freak

House of Ming returns with a stunning makeover and a bold new menu that elevates its timeless culinary legacy

House of Ming at the Taj Mahal Hotel in Delhi underwent renovations around two years ago, and I hadn't had the chance to visit since. The recent new menu launch was the perfect excuse to revisit this iconic establishment. The refurbishment has breathed fresh life into the restaurant, enhancing its elegance while preserving the heritage and charm that loyal patrons have cherished for decades.

The updated menu introduces a range of new Hunan, Cantonese, and Sichuan dishes. We began with the dim sum, which were, as expected, well-wrapped, flavorful, and light. However, the standout was the shrimp and bamboo shoots dim sum, wrapped in pok choi-so delicious that it warranted a repeat order. This dim sum needed no sauce, as it delivered a punch of flavor all on its own.

Another must-try is the pickled vegetables encased in a crisp wonton sheet. The tanginess of the Chinkiang vinegar added a depth of flavor that elevated this simple dish.

Chef Divij Malhotra also served us a masterpiece: the Crispy Tofu Xiangla. The tofu was almost hidden beneath an enticing layer of chillies. Curious, I tried one and was surprised to discover these weren't the typical chillies used in Chinese cuisine-they were crisp and subtly flavored. Chef Divij later explained that the chillies were a mix of Kashmiri Reshampatti, big Thai, and bird's eye chillies, which are blanched and dehydrated to achieve their extra crispness after flash frying. They perfectly complemented the otherwise mild tofu.

Although there were many other new dishes, we moved on to the main course, where the steamed crab claws with shrimp in mala sauce proved to be a delight. The thinly shredded lamb in chilli paired well with steamed rice. And even though we were focused on trying the new offerings, my friend Shibani couldn't resist ordering their classic crispy spinach-no one does it better than House of Ming.

The only dish that fell short was the barbecue shiitake bao, which had a dense casing and insufficient filling.

Whether you're a long-time fan or a first-time visitor, the innovative new desserts and impeccable service ensure an unforgettable dining experience at the House of Ming.

Pawan Soni

Food critic and founder of the

Big F Awards