Sharmila Chand gets on a discovery trail of the heartwarming childhood dishes chefs remember fondly.....
The taste of their home food lingers. It triggers wistful memories. Chefs share how they have recreated these memories, into their signature dishes. Till date every dish they cook is infused with personal experience and a lifetime of memories.
To relive the joy of their home food, let’s hear from them as they share some of their heartwarming memories associated with their mother’s cooking.
Bhatt Ki Churkani
By: Hitesh Pant, Executive Chef Sheraton Grand Bengaluru Whitefield Hotel & Convention Center
“My culinary journey blossomed from the heartfelt memories woven around my mother’s & aunt’s (Maasi’s) Bhatt Ki Churkani recipe. This cherished delicacy embodies more than just a flavour; it represents a profound connection to my childhood and the love that filled our kitchen during gatherings with friends and relatives. Each time I watched my mother or my Maasi (aunt) meticulously craft this culinary delight, I absorbed more than just the technique; I absorbed the essence of their nurturing spirit and the joy they found in creating something delicious from simple ingredients. Those moments ignited a passion within me, guiding me towards a career where I could share the warmth and comfort of home-cooked meals with others.
Bhatt Ki Churkani is a delicious and nutritious lentil dish (Dal) that originates from the Kumaon region of Uttarakhand. It is made with black soybeans also known as Bhatt, which are a rich source of protein, fiber and vitamins and all-time favourite among locals and tourists alike. Bhatt Ki Churkani is a cherished cultural heritage Dal (served with hot rice) of the Kumaon region, representing their traditions and culinary expertise.”
Today, as I create dishes in my own kitchen, I pay homage to my mother’s legacy, infusing every bite with the same love and care that inspired me to pursue my dreams as a chef. Thank you mothership for your warmth and nourishment you’ve always provided, both in kitchen and in life - I am forever grateful to call you my mom!
‘Bhatt Ki Churkani’ is often served in our all - day dining restaurant, Feast during buffet meals & brunches, each bite of which is a heartfelt tribute to my mother’s enduring presence and love.”
Nawanshar Katira Phirni
By: Gagan Sikka, Chef In-Charge Loya Taj Palace, New Delhi
“Nawanshar Katira Phirni, a unique dessert draws inspiration from two of my favourite childhood treats. The first is a beloved family recipe passed down from my grandmothers and mother - a refreshing Custard Phirni that they would often make at home for visiting guests that combined the comforting essence of traditional phirni with a delightful twist of custard, a nod to classic English sweets. My mother would use custard powder and rice and create a luscious blend of instant custard and creamy phirni. Even today, she occasionally makes this nostalgic treat, transporting us back to those cherished moments.
The second inspiration comes from my childhood streetside favourite from Amritsar - the hearty and indulgent Kulfa. Known for its rich, creamy kulfi and silky falooda, this dessert has always held a special place in my heart. In my rendition at Loya, I’ve created what we call the Nawanshar Katira Phirni. I’ve replaced the traditional rice with Gond Katira, an ingredient that’s currently trending for its incredible cooling properties and unique texture. Gond Katira not only adds a distinctive mouthfeel but also offers health benefits like boosting immunity, aiding digestion, and promoting healthy skin. And to make the dessert truly unique, I’ve added a house-churned Gulab Jamun ice cream, drawing inspiration from the Kulfa’s sumptuous kulfi and falooda. The dessert is completed with a dollop of Gond Katira, adding a final touch of texture and complexity. This reimagined dessert - the Nawanshar Katira Phirni that echoes all the lovely memories of my favourite Custard Phirni and Kulfa, is not just a treat for the taste buds but a sensory journey through cherished memories and innovative flavours.”
Thai Crab Omellette
By: Rungtiwa Sorlae, Thai Cuisine Specialty Chef InAzia Sheraton Grand Bengaluru Whitefield Hotel & Convention Center
“My journey through South Thailand immersed me in the vibrant flavours of Thai cuisine. Inspired by my mother’s recipes, I perfected the Thai Crab Omelette-a cultural delight now also on our menu and a hot star, I must say. Be it lunch or dinner, my diners ask me to prepare Thai Omelette which I prepare from my heart.
Infused with authentic Thai seasonings and crafted with Sheraton Bengaluru Whitefield’s finesse, this dish promises a symphony of textures and flavours, whether made with fresh crab or umami-rich canned varieties. Quick to prepare in just 90 seconds, it combines sautéed crab meat, onions, tomato, and bell pepper with whisked eggs, creating a crispy yet fluffy omelette that embodies my promise & dedication to global culinary excellence. My mother’s cherished recipe continues to influence me to create delicious and memorable recipes.”
Mother’s Banana Crepes
By: Sajid Patel, Executive Chef Sheraton Grand Bangalore Hotel at Brigade Gateway
“It is the act of incorporating the emotions of childhood innocence and nostalgia with a spin of modern culinary infusion is what I try to serve my guests. I was in the years of notorious nine and bananas used to be one of my primary foods of distaste. There was something about their yellow peeled, mushy texture that was enough to scrunch up my face in disfavour. Until I remember what it was a summer Sunday afternoon and I had just come home from my weekly cricket practice, thirsting for something sweet, like every other naive kid I went in search of my mother who I knew was the only one at that hour who could quench my sweet tooth with yet another of her simple yet ever comforting innovations just like she did that day. With three ingredients that sound ever so simple she played something in front of me that I till date can deem as my soul food and I know I always will further on. She picked up three ripe bananas from the counter and cut them into slices, heated some homemade ghee and added sugar to it to gather a glaze like consistency and went on to add the slices of bananas to have it braised in the glaze, once done she procured a day old wheat parantha from the casserole and wrapped the ombre braised bananas in it. She cut it into triangles for me and as I recall that savory afternoon and the child inside me finds solace in the sheer flavours of sweet something out of nothings and innocence.
Having given you the background, I have aspired always to give my guests the similar taste of nostalgia and innocence that we carry from our boyhood days. My spin on the rendition of bananas that my mother made me fall in love with would be nothing too different but just a spin on the French dessert, Crepes.”
Thap Tawan Smoked Fish
By: Anil Rawat, Executive Chef Le Méridien Khao Lak Resort & Spa Khao Lak, Thailand
“I am working In Thailand since 2006 and I miss my home food of Uttarakhand a lot. My mother used to cook for us a great BBQ fish which was regularly caught by my maternal grandfather. It was cooked in the house in small clay stove - chulha and I used to watch it with utmost concentration. My mother used several local spices of Garhwal hills to finish the marination including turmeric, cumin, salt, lemon, garam masala, mustard oil, garlic and coriander. I used to love mint chutney which she prepared on sil batta and served along with it.
So I have tried to take inspiration from there and serve “Thap Tawan Smoked Fish” in my menu. Thap Tawan is local fisherman village here. We receive fresh fish on daily basis, I clean and marinate for few hours, then put in slow fire with wood, cook for 20 minutes - squeeze fresh lemon on top and serve hot with mint chutney. I am extremely happy to carry on my home recipe here and get compliments.”
Dal Moradabadi
By: Manish Mehrotra, Culinary Director Indian Accent
“Lentils are a staple of Indian cuisine, and in no other country are they used in so many ways to make such a variety of dishes-stews, fritters, salads, snacks and this chaat. Made with the humble split moong dal, often derided as diet for the sick or elderly, this famous chaat from Moradabad, a small town in northern India, is a favourite of mine. My mother hails from Moradabad, and when we visited my maternal grandparents during vacations, we looked forward to eating Dal Moradabadi, made in our kitchen as well as we excited to have it from the chaat-wala ringing his cycle-bell to announce his arrival on our street. At Indian Accent, I take pride in offering my own version as I temper the boiled dal with a variety of ingredients. Since the dish is thick and pasty, it is accompanied with a chur chur paratha.”
INGREDIENTS: Split moong dal 3 tbsp; Turmeric powder ½ tsp; Ghee 1 tbsp; Cumin seeds ½ tbsp; Asafoetida ½ tsp; Ginger, chopped 1 tsp; Green chillies, chopped ½ tsp; Salted butter 1 tbsp; Coriander leaves, chopped 1 tsp; Cloves 2-3 nos.; Black salt ½ tsp; Salt to taste and Water 300 ml
TO SERVE: Tamarind chutney 2 tsp; Green chutney 1 tsp; Onions, chopped 2 tsp; Tomatoes, chopped 2 tsp; Lime juice ½ tsp; Fried moong dal or chanachur, dal moth, 1 tbsp or Bombay mix (as garnish) and Bhuknu masala ½ tsp
METHOD: Clean and thoroughly wash the dal. Soak for at least 1 hour. Boil the soaked dal with turmeric powder in a heavy bottom pan till it is pasty. As the dal boils, stir continuously to avoid it sticking to the bottom of the pan.
Heat ghee in a heavy bottom pan. Crackle some cumin seeds. Add asafoetida. Add chopped ginger and green chillies. Sauté briefly, add cloves, black salt and salt, and then add this tempering to the dal. Cover the pan immediately so that the dal is infused with the tempering. Add butter and chopped coriander.
Pour the hot dal into a serving bowl. Drizzle some tamarind and green chutneys over it. Sprinkle chopped onions and tomatoes. Add a dash of lime juice. Garnish with fried moong dal, chanachur, dal moth, or Bombay mix. Finish with bhuknu masala. A specialty from Unnao in Uttar Pradesh, this is a type of chaat masala with a strong flavour of hing. Bhuknu masala can be substituted with regular chaat masala.
-- Sharmila Chand is an author and independent journalist who writes on Travel, Food and Lifestyle