Inhaling the scents of fresh blooms, sipping freshly brewed tea, I witnessed sunrise magic from the folds of Nilgiris, sitting in the garden of the charming villa, The Xanadu in Coonoor. Here I sealed every moment as the celebration of Nature, writes Sharmila Chand
Tucked at the edge of a cliff, the villa is my home for three days with a magnificent view of the rolling Nilgiri hills, tea plantations and the plains below. I tell my friend, Aparna Bharathan, the humble owner of this pretty home, that I have ‘checked in and breathing out’. She bursts into laughter as that exactly is the tagline she has chosen for her Xanadu chain of premium, fully serviced vacation rental villas.
For me, a trip to Coonoor is essentially to relish slow travel without ticking off ‘must do’ list. Hence, a game of Jenga or Monopoly in the plush living room while watching the pitter patter of raindrops, is luxury. There is a whiff of pleasant aroma in the room, I can’t resist and peep into the kitchen where Ganga Ram is busy making rasam and lemon rice. He is little more generous in using curry leaves in tadka, and that makes me impatient to have the meal. By now, Ganga has spoilt me thoroughly with several glasses of cutting chai and delicious food.
Magical Night
I wait for the spectacular night view when the sky is full of pretty stars in coherence with the lights of the plains shimmering below. This is luxury for me. The weather throughout the day plays its own hide and seek, the clouds enveloping the hills in a stroke of misty white and next moment letting the hills magically appear in the famous ‘Nilgiri’ blue haze.
Nilgiris Endowed With Unique Biodiversity
The Nilgiri mountains stretch over the states of Karnataka, Tamil Nadu and Kerala, connecting Western Ghats with the Eastern Ghats. Located at the convergence of both Ghats, lends Nilgiris vibrant flora and fauna. From Evergreen forests and lowland Savannas to lush Shola grassland, enchanting flora encompasses the region. Various endangered species including Nilgiri Langur thrive here. What I love is the heady fragrance of cypress, eucalyptus and pine. The soft purple haze of my favourite jacaranda trees keeps my eyes longing for more. I can’t get over seeing magnificent trees of Pont Setia, the same festive plant with bold red leaves we have in small pots during Christmas time. And then the lush mosanda in white and pink, another favourite of mine that seems to be calling me back soon!
Indigenous Community - The Todas
It is said that Toda community settled here around 3500 years ago, thus the oldest inhabitants of the region. Known for their pastoral way of life and vegetarian lifestyle, the Todas have a distinct identity. Every aspect of their life, including their artistic skills, are inspired by nature. The traditions they follow further prove how nature is significant in their lifestyle. I was told by locals that during an infant’s naming ceremony, the grandfather uncovers the child’s face out in the open air for the first time, showing various elements of nature - the rising sun, the birds, the cows, buffaloes etc. I visited one Toda village and saw women busy at their art work. Their embroidery represents an ancient art form and has been granted a GI patent by The Government.
A Cup That Cheers!
Visiting Nilgiris and not taking a trip to a tea plantation, is unfair. Though you see the sweeping vistas of carpets of tea all around, blooming on the slopes as far as eye can see, but experiencing a walk through the plantation and completing it with tea tasting, is a beautiful outstanding experience. And who can do this better than Sandeep Subramani, a fourth generation tea planter and founder of Tranquilitea which runs a chain of experiential boutique holidays in the Nilgiris and conducts a highly acclaimed gourmet tea tasting experience in their estate in Coonoor called the ‘Cups That Cheer’.
Sandeep takes one and half hour glorious session on tea which is full of stories, facts and secrets. One secret he tells with great pride and a smile - “The Nilgiris has the world’s highest tea estates. At around 8000 feet there is simply no other place on earth that grows tea as a plantation crop as high as in the Nilgiris. Darjeeling, the region that makes the other famous Indian tea has its highest tea estates at just over 6000 feet. Let me explain why tea doesn’t grow at such heights anywhere else. The weather is generally too cold for tea to grow at these elevations. However, the geographical location of the Nilgiris provides the perfect temperature band through the winter months, for tea to grow even at these heights.
Talking about temperature, tea thrives between 13° C and 30° C and we are always within that range. Though night-time temperatures in winter can drop below 13° C, day temperatures are always within the optimum range. This results in a tea that is intensely flavourful and typically floral in nature,” he concludes.
Interesting Attractions
To Visit: Though I am contented to luxuriate in the comfort of home Xanadu, but for those discerning travelers who might like to have a sightseeing plan, here are few top things to do in Coonoor.
Dolphin’s Nose Point: Located at an altitude of 1,500, it is set amidst the rolling hills, the tip of the peak of the enormous rock resembles the nose of a dolphin hence the name Dolphin’s Nose. Gigantic ravines are on both sides of the place offering a view of inspiring Catherine Falls.
Lamb’s Rock: enjoy fascinating views of the valley at this vantage point with jagged rock that drops down several hundred feet to bury itself in the luxuriant jungle below. The place got its name after Captain Lamb who attempted to open a path to this place.
Droog Fort: The historical Droog Fort at an altitude of about 6000 feet above the lush plains, is said to be used by Tipu Sultan as an outpost. To reach this place, one has to go up to Nonsuch Estate and trek down for about 4 kms. According to locals’ tales, the fort is linked with the legend of a local demon, Bakasura. Due to this, it is also called Bakasura Malai by the natives.
Sim’s Park: Spend sometime in the park which was developed around the natural contours of the land by JD Sims and Major Murray in the year of 1874. Spread over 30 acres of land, the park was started as a pleasure resort for the residents and visitors, and later developed into garden. It has wonderful landscaped gardens & walkways lined up with beautiful flowers spread across, also a lake inside the park that offers boating facility as well.
Ketti Valley: Embark on the toy train to enjoy this beautiful valley. It is also famous for bird watching and trekking. You can also visit the famous Shiva Lingam temple here.
Gourmet Cheese: Coonoor is now also famous for selling gourmet cheese. You can take a tour of cheese farms or simply visit a popular old store Nilgiris Store’ or ‘Baker’s Junction’ just 100 m from Bedford circle.
Shopping: Shopping in Coonoor is pretty good. From pretty embroidered shawls, apparels, Toda jewellery and handicrafts items to natural oils, fruit jams, homemade chocolates and of course, the huge variety of tea, shopping here is really good.
Spend at least a week, soak in fresh crisp mountain air and come back rejuvenated till you return to the spectacular queen of hills.
— She is an author and journalist who writes on Travel, Food, Culture and Lifestyle
