As Tapas Day passed us by, we reveal to you the variety of forms that the Spanish snack platter can take and how chefs have turned the concept on its head. By Aakriti Narang
Food is not just about self-satisfaction but social interaction. Spaniards understood this a long, long time ago and set a tradition of sharing platters or tapas, which has turned into a global food movement. It all began as an intermittent mini meal in the middle ages, usually had with drinks at inns and eateries that dotted the travellers’ routes. Innkeepers offered their guests a sample of the dishes available on a tapa (the word for pot cover in Spanish). Since then tapa has come to signify a small portion of any kind of Spanish cuisine. Over time there were many tapas that evolved, mutated and got reinvented. Till tapas became an acceptable snack platter that could even be adapted to a local grammar.
And so it is that June 15 is celebrated as World Tapas Day. In India, the party of exploring and appreciating these small Spanish bites began in Mumbai with the Four Seasons Hotel and the Tourism Office of Spain providing unique varieties and Spanish wines. And it continued at The Claridges in New Delhi. Executive Chef of Seville, Sahil Sabhlok, who is rolling out special platters till June 25, said, “We are not completely traditional in our approach to making tapas. This is why we have called them ‘inspired’ on the menu. Even in Spain, Michelin-starred chefs have actually taken a U-turn from the traditional approach to cooking.”
The Spanish appetisers can be served either hot or cold and come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Examples include the gazpacho, which is a cold tomato-based soup originating from Andalusia. It is eaten as a starter and is served during the hot summers. It belongs to the south of Spain and had its beginnings as a meal for labourers working in vineyards and oil plantations. It provided nourishment, quenched their thirst and sustained their bodies working in the hot sun. Chef Alejandro Espinosa, Executive Chef at El Patio de la Catedral Segovia, who had come down for the promotion, said, “The patatas bravas are perhaps the most well-known tapas around the world. Originating in Madrid around 1960, the fame of this dish comes strictly from the spicy tomato sauce. The combination of spices used to make this sauce has remained a mystery.”
In small, bite-sized portions, Tortillas Espanola or the Spanish omelette can also be called tapas. They are made from eggs, potatoes and sometimes onions too. Chef Alejandro explained, “Story has it that this recipe was an easy, fast and nutritious dish to satisfy the scarcities of the Carlist Army. The tortilla started to become increasingly common during the Carlist wars. These were a series of civil wars that occurred in Spain during the 19th century.” The tortilla is almost always accompanied by bread and sometimes with fried pimientos de pardon. The commonest toppings are green peppers, chorizo, zucchini, eggplant, mushrooms or diced ham.
Fried garlic prawns or gambas al ajillo are a very typical tapa. It is admired worldwide. In fact, people sometimes have it as a starter for both lunch and dinner. Chef Alejandro told us that, “the key of this tapa is the magnificent combination of fresh prawns with garlic and red chilli flakes, all cooked together in olive oil.” All these dishes can be played around with and turned on their head to create more innovative versions.
H.E. Ambassador of Spain to India Gustavo Manuel de Arístegui y San Román said: “Tapas are much cheaper than a traditional meal, which means that this luxury is within the reach of everybody. The best aspect of tapas is their social dimension as they encourage friendship. Going out for having tapas becomes an excuse for going out with friends. Every year, around 8 million tourists come to Spain predominantly for the delightful culinary experience that they will receive here.”
Director of the Tourism Office of Spain, Ignacio Ducasse, strongly believes that, “Tapas are a clear reflection of the diversity and multiplicity of flavours that are characteristic of Spanish gastronomy. You can have tapas any time during the day. They play the same role in Spain as does street food here in Delhi or Mumbai. Reaching out for tapas is similar to reaching out to someone in order to build a new friendship. Tapas are a combination of gastronomy and Spanish lifestyle. The significance of tapas in the lives of the Spanish is the reason why we have decided to celebrate this day globally.”
Tapas are commonly served in bars. For someone who is drinking alcohol, they are definitely healthy in the sense that they fill you up. Nonetheless, they are more about having a fun time with your friends. Says Chef Sabhlok, “I’m sure that when people go out for having tapas, they don’t even consider whether they are healthy or not. It’s more about the atmosphere that ordering, waiting for and then finally eating tapas create rather than the actual ingredients, although those too are important. A lot of tapas are fried and they contain cheese, meat and ham.”
It is difficult to define what a tapa is to someone who hasn’t tried one before. The chef believes that “tapas are a concept that is endless in interpretation. It approximates to what kebabs are in our Indian cuisine. There are an infinite numbers and styles of kebabs and nobody knows what can be the next variant. In the same way, tapas are very flexible as a concept. In popular Spanish tapas bars, the bartender himself serves the snack platter and a slice of bread without even asking. Generally, people drink either wine or sangria along with munching on tapas.”
The similarity between Indian street food and Spanish tapas lies not in their taste but in their conception. Sometimes you’re feeling hungry and in these situations you don’t want to go to a proper restaurant. You go to a roadside vendor, grab a samosa and you’re satisfied as well as energised to carry on with the day’s work. It’s the same case with tapas.
