As the replica market seems to leave no stone unturned to copy designs of big brands and sell at cheaper prices, designers give a different picture altogether. Some say that the discerning consumer knows the difference between the original and the replica, others say instead of fighting a legal battle, they aim to create designs which cannot be copied
With Mira Rajput and recently Masaba Gupta joining the league of becoming the modern bride, many of you who are going to get married in no time would have dreamt of getting their so- called designer lehenga. But, as many of us are not able to afford the designer outfits as that would leave a big hole in our pocket, the brides- to-be would turn to other was of getting the right outfit. We remember how Alia Bhatt in Humpty Sharma ki dulhaniya manages to get the designer lehenga froma local store. Though the replicas of designer outfits have always existed, but is the market of fakes actually growingIJ
The story
Ace designer, Ritu Kumar shared with us that it has been happening since forever. “Whenever we do a fresh design, it is being copied. But at the same time, these designs attract people to attempt such calls. Since past 20 years I have faced this issue,” she said. Surekha Jain agreed with Kumar as she said that replicas have always been part of the business. “It had happened to me many times. I have seen my hand embroidered designs been sold by others and I know who are they, there are people coming to my store takeing pictures of the collection,” she shared.
Whereas, Shalini James clearly pointed out that there are some designs that cannot be copied. “When I am working with a particular crap, it cannot be copied. They can make an imitation of it but they cannot copy the whole design,” she said. Though deigners accept that it has been happening since a long time now, Nikhil Thampi from exclusively.com shared, “It takes away the essence of the design. But, the designers that are made for masses, and have a huge suplly, those are the ones which are usallu copied.”
Thin line but a major differnce
Thiugh these small boutiques can follow the pattern and make imitations but they cannot copy it entirely. James shared with us that they can only make a look alike but there lies a maijor diffrence in the main design, fabric and finishing.
There is always a difference between original and copied and that is the main reason that the originals are being in demand. When you will see the both, you can easily find out the difference,”said Kumar.
She added, “The colours and designs are same but there is a difference in the fabric being used by them.”
On the other hand, Thampi shared with us, “The major diffrence lies in the quality. If you see the technical points, the cuts and sihouttes, they are entirely diffrent betwen the original and the replica.”
But, as they say, when you have an aye for fashion, you can easily tell the differnce. Jain rightly pointed out,
“They are trying to make replica but they can’t bring the quality of the fabric and designs and anybody who understands the garment can easily tell the difference between replica and the original. When designers showcase their collection, they know that it will be copied but there are people who will never buy a replica. Forget about the embroidered clothes, even if it is a plain black shirt, you will get to know that it is not the original one.
The consumers’ instinct
As many would go and prefer these replicas, deigners are of the view that those who are the discerning custmoers, they would never buy a replica. James told us very casually, “It doesn’t affect our sales because our custmoers understand what they are buying when they buy a designer outfit When I am working with an ikkat weave or kalamkari, I know people woudl not be able to copy it. So, the target custmoers knwo the difference and the reality behind market of fakes. The apparel market would continue to produce these replicas but it is on how we take it. The craft and textiles that we work with are labour and capital intensive, which in my opionion cannot be copied. For me, only look can only be copied and not the design altogether.”
Thampi, on the other hand shared that though there are some who would prefer these replicas because of the financial crunch, but “our outfits are neither so exorbinnat that people can;t afford them.”
Sneha Mehta, director at Kukoon Capes shared, “A person who has got an eye and exposed to a designer's outfit will always be prefer for designer's outfit as it gave a well tailored look to it and design as per their body structure, by giving more confidence and a feel good factor.”
The future ahead
As the cases of replicas increase everday, what is the futurre ahead that the designers feelIJ As designers, what they feel can be done to resolve this issueIJ
“The number of these cases have been reduced because we have won several cases against those copying our designs. That is the reason, many of them are now afraid to copy the designs. Earlier, these shopkeepers used to sell the designs from our names but now it has reduced comparitively,” said Kumar.
Thampi, on the other hand shared, “As a young designer like me, it woudl take me half of my life to fight legal battle. Instead, my focus is to produce a design that cannot be repeated. I try to give my silhouttes a personal touch altogether so those cannot be copied. The sad part is even when the customer knows, they buy those outfits. We can actually laugh over it,” he shared.
Jain agreed with Thampi when she said the issue cannot be resolved. “There are people who have been taken to the court but there is no positive result for it. There is a parallel market going on. If you ever go to chandni chowk, they will show you the lehenga and say that these lehengas are of designers. Every designer has to live with it and that is what we do, we live with it.
As many designers feel that it is better to do something about the designs than to fight a legal battle. James shared, “There are no dearth of ideas, If you have new ideas coming up, then you would not worry about these apparel market who copies you. As we try to educate out viewers if piracy happens in Bollywood, then in the same way, we should educate our customers. They should be told not to buy these replicas. In my opinion, as long as the minority is buying those, it is not a problem,” she shared.
Mehta on the other hand said, “As far as designer’s designs and ideas are being copied ,there may not be a swift solution. But one may learn how to appreciate the creativity and thoughts poured on one’s design rather distort the whole meaning of innovation.”
We completely agree, so next time, you wish to buy a designer lehenga, think about quality and fabric than the price.