Designers Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla explore the rich legacy of silks, brocades, gold and silver thread work of the old city. Shrabasti Mallik checks out the traditional fabrics and motifs
It seems like Banaras is slowly and steadily becoming the symbol of culture and tradition. While director Neeraj Ghaywan decided to highlight the everyday lives of the common men of Banaras with Masaan, designers Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla brought alive the numerous crafts, the vibrancy and the heritage of the place, its ghats and its people through their latest bridal collection titled Varanasi.
It was after five years that the duo had showcased in Delhi and their show opened the BMW Bridal Fashion Week 2015 at DlF Emporio. Jani and Khosla have always claimed that they derive their inspiration from India but the way they transformed the ramp to look like the bank of one of the numerous ghats of the city, with the shiny black ramp reflecting light like a river.
What made the show all the more spectacular was Sonam Kapoor, who opened the collection in a body-hugging, heavily embellished translucent gown. With the song Will you still love meIJ by lana Del Ray in the backdrop, the actress tried to walk down the ramp rather gracefully but the heavy embellishments might have been a tad too heavy for her to carry. There were a few times when we found the diva faltering in her steps as she swayed and danced to the music.
The collections showcased the rich legacy of silks, brocades, gold and silver thread work, carpet weaving that the city is renowned for. These magnificent traditional fabrics and motifs found new expression through their couture.
“Varanasi has always left a deep impression upon us with its history, energy, spirituality, symbolism as well as its astonishing legacy of craftsmanship. We’ve worked with weaves indigenous to the city over the years. But there is always a moment, a time when those impressions are translated into a solid and dedicated expression. This is that moment for us. And the collection is the result. It is an ode to everything we hold dear about the city and its indestructible soul,” Sandeep Khosla pointed out.
The show was categorised in five different parts in which the shade of the sacred white seamlessly transformed to vermillion red. It began with Vrindavan which focussed a lot on georgette and khadi with intricate resham and zardozi works in the shades of pink, red, orange and yellow. The show started with the duos’ signature chikankari pieces studded with tone on tone Swarovski crystals and moved on to heavier pieces in pale gold khadi silks embroidered with gota. Cows, palm trees, parrots, and flora fauna inspired by Krishna and his gopis were the predominant motifs.
The shift in colours, fabric and patterns was visible when the ensemble displayed bold, floral ghagras on khadi silks, paired with a traditional Banarasi dupatta. For this line called The ghats of Banaras, the designers chose the colour palette of pink, red, orange and yellow with multi color highlights. Each ghaghra was lavishly embroidered with gota, gold beads and sequins.
It was not a co incidence that Jani and Khosla decided to name the third segment Aisha (we are referring to the character of Aisha that Sonam played in the movie of the same name). It was one unique collection in Banarasi net and organza that introduced horse hairs for the first time, accented with resham, bugle beads, crystals and sequins. A vibrant combination of pink, red, orange and yellow dominated the ramp as part of the following segment. Titled lotus, this collection displayed bridal couture in the traditional handloom fabrics of khadi and Banarasi net using faux leather and abla appliqué work.