Vivacity

The twain do meet

Shambhavi Suri

The new menu at Farzi Cafe features a great balance of dishes from the South as well as the North, says Shambhavi Suri

People who love to eat are the best kind,” reads a quote on one of the walls of Farzi Cafe. Located in the most vogue places of Gurugram, it altogether has a different aura to it. Walking through the doors, it feels as if one has entered a typical Irish bistro. The dim lighting, lounge music, wooden tables and chairs, creates a vibe that speaks for itself.

Without further ado, food was served. First to touch the table was the Amuse Bouche — mango spheres. Brought in tiny ceramic cups, these sweet spheres of what is essentially yogurt, have a stretchy yet silky outside and a liquid inside. These small tangy spheres are cold and refreshing. This dish is definitely a smart and rejuvenating way of starting a meal, as well as helps in building an appetite.

In an era of ‘Avocado and Toast’, how could we as Indians, be left behind in picking up that trend. Giving avocado a desi twist, cafe aims to cater to the Indian, more so, the North Indian palate. The Avocado Chaat and Beetroot Gel, was the next dish in. Partly cut avocado topped with onions, tomatoes, sev and the quintessential chaat masalas, garnished with pomegranate and beetroot gel, could not have gone wrong. While eating it, you feel trendier but still strongly connected to our roots.

Coming next to the table was Aloo Samosa Pinwheel Chaat. It is essentially a deconstructed samosa, with the deep-fried flour, covering of the samosa, made into a pinwheel. What surprised me is the fact that, while eating a deconstructed samosa, one actually realises and savours entire element of it as opposed to having a samosa as a whole. The beauty of the dish is — one can eat every bit of the element separately and rejoice its own, independent flavour.

Then, there is Papdi Chaat Nachos. Standing on the bed of salsa beans, are house-prepared nachos, topped with onions, tomatoes, peanuts and drizzled with mint chutney, I must say what a marvellous creation it is. The combination seems to be one made in heaven. Eating this famous Delhi street-snack, all I can say is that it’s a crowd pleaser.

Moving on, a new take on one of the most popular vegetarian kebabs is brought to the table. This is the Peshawari Paneer Tikka, served along with a Blue Cheese Raita. While the paneer tikka — coated with layer of malai, it is cooked to perfection, and melts in your mouth but the blue cheese raita de-railed the dish. The sweetness from the blue cheese along with the sweet coating of the paneer could be too sweet, but might definitely be the choice of all the sweet-tooths out there.

After a long wait, finally came in the first South Indian dish with an eastern twist. The Guntur Chilli Chicken, an innovative take on the chicken 65, wok tossed like chilli chicken. Tucking into this dish, the chicken is crispy, with a tad bit of sweetness and gets spicier with a strong flavour from the curry leaves. Just what you’d expect from a chicken 65, but spicier, thanks to the inspiration from the chilli chicken. The shavings of coconut, really bring out the flavour of the food. This dish will make you sweat, but it’s worth, plus you get to literally “burn” some calories. “Food for thought” (quite literally) — wouldn’t chicken 65 be India’s next chilli chicken?

Next in is the Paniyaram Scotch Quails Eggs. These are small, fried rice balls that centred poached quail eggs, served with a side of Parmesan Papad. There’s not much that can be said about this dish. The eggs were runny in the centre. The rice balls add a crunchy plus warm texture, the parmesan papad and the mint chutney binds the dish together spectacularly.

Back to the North, the dish brought in is Amritsari Fish Tacos with sour cream salsa. The hot and spicy Amritsari fish tucked in a crunchy taco shell with dollops of the sour cream salsa. Every element on that platter comes together naturally and is lip smackingly good. It is an art to pick elements from across the globe and blend them together effortlessly.

Next up is a palate changer. This is the Elder Flower Sorbet. Hats off to the effort put into the presentation of this one. It comes on a ceramic tree structure and on one of the branches is the sorbet stick. The sorbet has a smooth, milky and creamy yet icy texture. Drizzled with blueberry compote, this adds a tanginess. The combination really refreshes the palate and makes you ready for more.

Coming to the main course, the first dish that hits the table is the Haleem Risotto topped with Mutton pickle. This plate of food is wholesome, meaty and scrumptious. The pickle-ness dominates the plate but it doesn’t, in anyway, overpower the concept of the dish. It reminds you of the fresh achaar that your grandma would make for you. This plate just mirrors childhood memories and comfort. It is guaranteed that you wouldn’t want to get over the achari fever.

Coming in next is the Mushroom Do Pyaza and Ajwaini Paratha. This one too, tastes like a home-cooked dish, that you’d crave for. The ajwaini paratha, with a layer of butter over it, wouldn’t make you stop indulging for more. There is nothing pretentious or twisted, it is just pure goodness.

The very last main is brought in. This is the Fish Pullimunchi with onion ghee pulao. On a bed of rice, rests the deep-fried, crunch and crispy fish and for the dramatics, the broth/curry of the fish is poured around the rice, on the table. The light and tangy broth, mixed with ghee rice, is full-bodied in terms of its flavour. The fish adds the texture to the dish and the salt content of the fish, rightfully balances the plate.

Lastly, for the desert, the Lemon Custard Tart is served with a raspberry splash and house-made vanilla ice-cream. The dish is presented in the way that the tart shell hides the lemon custard and the vanilla ice-cream. This presentation is smart in a way that, once you break the shell, it crumbles over the custard and the ice cream, which allows you to enjoy the dish. It is the best example of exemplary cooking, execution and the right balance. The tart shell adds bite to the dish, the vanilla ice cream is the kind you’ve never eaten before and the tartiness of lemon custard and sweetness of the raspberry splash will rock your world. For those who don’t have a sweet-tooth, too, will enjoy this. It is the best way to end the meal.

An evening spent relaxing but also tracing the trajectory of how far Indian culinary has come but still true to its roots, will fill you with pride and of course, the food will not make your mouth stop watering. True to its name, Farzi café will not fail to create a gastronomical illusion through its top of the class culinary art.