Vivacity

The story of cool wool

Ankita Jain

The session focussed on the potential of wool as a fabric which can be worn throughout the year. Ankita Jain reports

Remember those unforgettable olden days when grandmother or that neighbourhood aunty fondly knitted a spunky sweater in your favourite colour. More than a customised wear it was a labour of love and materialised purely out of love and affection for you. Once adorn it immediately stayed in your memory bank, giving a feel-good-factor and made you aware that someone close to you spent sleepless nights just to keep you warm, cosy in frosty weather conditions. But ever wondered this fabric can even be worn throughout the year.

We think that wool has to be worn only in winter, when it is very cold, but, it seems that we are wrong. Wool which has high thermal insulation properties protects the skin from ultraviolet rays, a fact that the nomadic tribes in the Sahara desert were aware of. Therefore, they wear wool to protect themselves from the extreme heat. Furthermore, merino wool in particular, is highly breathable and has a strong odour resistance, a property that can be very useful in workplaces during hot summers. “In India, wool is a part of our tradition. There is a huge market for hand knitted sweaters, shawls and scarves. We even follow international fashion and guide our artisans to meet their demand,” said Satya Prakash Thakur, Chairman of Bhuttico, in the first of its kind initiative in the country, wool conclave which focussed on the potential of wool as luxurious and natural fibre for fashion and lifestyle sector and how India and Australia can work in tandem to multiply and support wool. It is the edition flagged off by The Woolmark Company and India Fashion Forum (IFF).

The discussion talked about how we should make our local artisans follow fashion. What are the techniques and tools required to make those centuries’ old craft into a trendy fashionable pieceIJ How we can build India's fashion aspiration and lead it to become a major fashion producer to the worldIJ And how wool can be a part of it.

Talking about the global acceptance of Indian designs, designer Ritu Kumar said, “I have been working for 45 years in this industry. I also do four collections a year for Europe as well as for the states. Today I see India emerging miraculously in the field of fashion. I thought 10 years back, all of India would start wearing high street london clothing or Paris clothing because the entire world was dominated by so called Euro centric handwriting. But I am glad that it didn’t happen in India.” She further added, “We have found an indigenous, organic fashion sense in Indian handwriting in this country. It rarely happens in any other country where it is not imposed upon by religion or society. This may have to do with a fact that we have 60 million craftsmen working not as a hobby but as their livelihood. All over the world, we are known for the love of colour. But I don’t know of any other country including China where you can notice fashion handwriting that has come from its roots.”

When asked about the growth of Indian consumer for international fashion, Anjan Reddy, Founder & CEO of a menswear brand, said, “We have seen international fashion brands walking-in and take a sizable part of market share. That happened because India didn’t focus much on western clothing, we were into handicrafts and handlooms. Previously Indian consumers were seen spending on clothes occasionally but today, they shop on a frequent basis. And what is driving them is the accessibility and value for money.”

Talking about the importance of wool, Chris Elstoft, Australian Deputy High Commissioner said, “It can prove to be a great opportunity for India and Australia to work together to mutually support wool. The conclave focuses on complete fiber to fashion story. It’s a story about how Australian Merino wool can be transformed into garments here in India.”