Madhav Agasti is famous as the favourite designer of most Indian politicians. He chatted with Divya Kaushik about the style statement of our leaders and forging bonds while giving famous people a cutting-edge look
Eleven in the morning was too busy a time for the man caught up with measurements and meetings. “Can we talk after elections,” he said reluctantly. Keeping in mind that he is the person taking care of style and dressing of most of our politicians, paucity of time is understandable. But then Madhav Agasti did take out time to speak to us. Madhav is the favourite tailor of most Indian politicians. Agasti has been designing and tailoring clothes since last 26 years and the list of politicians he designs for is rather long. It was Madhav who was responsible for the late Shiv Sena chief Bal Thackeray’s transition from black sherwanis to colourful silk lungi-kurta.
“I am working for Sharad Pawar, Praful Patel, Prithviraj Chavan, Farooq Abdullah, lK Advani, Rajnath Singh, Gopinath Munde, Sharad Yadav, Nitish Kumar,” said Madhav, who believes in forging bonds while stitching clothes for people. No wonder then that people who have come to him once have returned. Thanks to his connect with established people in Bollywood and politics, Madhav says he didn’t have to work really hard in finding his ground in a city like Mumbai in the early 1970s, when he first came to Mumbai from his hometown Nagpur.
“I was fascinated by clothes, styles and cuts. I never had any formal training in tailoring. As a 13-year-old I watched neighbourhood darzis stitch suits, trousers and shirts for men and practised on my own. I came to Mumbai in 1973 to earn more money from tailoring and started assisting a Bollywood designer. I was a cutter and interacted personally with actors like Ranjeet, Sunil Dutt, Amrish Puri and Kader Khan. They all liked my work and when I started Madhav’s Men’s Modes in Dadar in 1975, it was a cakewalk to get business since these people came to me for their clothes. In those days, cut was not in fashion, emphasis was given to fittings. In men’s clothing it was difficult to find tailors who can get your fit right. All these important people I made clothes for were very particular of their fit and style. Being from Nagpur I was always connected with politicians. My association with the high and mighty began in the 1970s with veteran Congress politician NKP Salve. Word of mouth spread and the way people are linked in politics, it was easy for people to know about me and my work,” said Madhav, who also designed Mogambo’s costume for Amrish Puri in Mr India.
Over time, as trends in Bollywood changed and actors preferred to go for fashion designers, Madhav’s list of Bollywood clients reduced in number but some like Gulshan Grover still trust only him for a perfect fit. “Also, with more and more politicians coming to us work expanded,” added Madhav, who sits in his Bandra office and travels all over the country to meet his clients personally and understand what they are looking for.
“Personal style matters to everyone these days and all the politicians I make clothes for have their own style they want to stick to. Every leader wants to look good these days. But I do suggest them sometimes about the colours they should go for. Khadi and linen are the most demanded fabrics by politicians. Some like Sharad Yadav want their kurtas in khadi. Advaniji always wears a three-button jacket,” shared Madhav.
Over 60 people work under Madhav and he personally trains them. “We have been able to establish this name and goodwill through good work. I will always try that I am able to give each of my client the best of my craft and skills,” said Madhav.