Traditional Kashmiri cuisine is a meat-eater’s dream — flavoured lamb and minced meatballs are a must try. Vegetarian offerings are just as rich with nadru, khattey baingan and rajma, says Eram Agha
Wazwan is an elaborate feast involving Kashmiri traditions of washing hands in tashner and eating in tarami. It is a platter fit for prince where one’s plate is refilled with a new delicacy till one surrenders out of sheer space concerns. Waza keeps a watchful eye on the dimnishing curries and meatballs, and ladles out a surprise while one sits cross legged. This was the scene at Chor Bizarre as they held a night of wazwan with floor sitting arrangement beautified by cushions, candles and pretty dinner ware of Kashmiri legend.
There were no breads to start wazwan, as roti is considered inadequate in giving diners a feast of a time and so is chicken. The delicacies are high on lamb preparations that are enjoyed with rice alone. Most of the curries are either curd based or made with brown onions. Chef Pradeep Khullar was as authentic as the crowd allowed him to be, he kept the adventurous intestines and other parts of animal out of the course. He feared that maithi maaz wouldn’t have been a favourite with expats and other suave eaters who attended the outing in Delhi. The non vegetarian fair had prime cuts only.
The rich gastronomical journey started with nadru made in curd gravy and rajma that was sourced from Jammu. “Kashmiri rajma has small and soft beans which are not similar to long beans of Punjab,” said Khullar. It was
tampered with tomatoes, cardamom, cloves and fennel.
Haaq, from the spinach family, was prepared in mustard oil, salt and red chillies. It is the local produce and tastes delicious when paired with rice. Most of the dishes are made in mustard oil as it is locally available. Nothing to beat khattey baingan made in typical
Kashmiri spice and style and tomato based cottage cheese curry, ruwangan chhaman.
Soon the waza appeared with Kashmiri kukkad made from meat stock, red chillies and aaloo bukhara korma made in saunf, sonth and dry ginger. “This was made by frying the meat, which is a very popular technique in Kashmir as the locals believe that frying will help evaporate moisture and create space for juices and flavours to set in,” said Khullar.
The kitchen scene in Kashmir has multi crew arrangement, one to chop, another to pound meat and someone else to finally cook it. This comes as an easy way to prepare fine and impeccable numbers like palak rista and gushtaba which boast of finest meat pounding. Each diner had a curd preparation flavoured by saffron and raita made of radish and walnuts that helped them to wash down the spicy remnants on the taste buds and richness of meat.
Rice is a must but that doesn’t mean Kashmiris have phirni made by rice too. Most of the time local dessert is made in semolina or sooji.Khullar prepared sooji ki phirni that was fresh with the taste of saffron and rich with almonds. A cupful of kahwa rounded up as an ideal winter beverage.