Sabyasachi’s show at the Delhi Couture Week was inspired by director Fernando Meirelles’s film The Constant Gardener and 1920s era
An elaborate ramp with pots, plants, mirror frames and chandeliers set the perfect tone for Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s opium inspired collection at the opening day of PCJ Delhi Couture Week. Drawing muse from 1920s fashion, the ensembles comprised bandhgalas, short tops, garaaras, flapper jackets, duster coats, mughal coats, kurtas, lehengas and saris. “It took me around two and half months to do the collection. I am basically a 20s child. So I did not require much research,” said the Kolkata-based designer. He used a variety of fabrics like khadi from West Bengal, tulle from France, velvet, lace with lots of hand embroidery, applique, zardozi, tilla work and old-fashioned crewel embroidery. Interestingly, there was heavy dose of bling in clothes, which the designer explained post show. “It is an old-fashioned sequined works called tara. It is hand-cut gold, silver and copper sequins. Ari Tari work is one of the oldest forms of embroidery in the country. Most Kashmiri shawls had this work. So I want to revive that tradition,” he said. Mukherjee also used vintage jewellery from a Hyderabad’s old jeweller. “There were personal pieces, old antiques and collectibles from the 20th century,” he shared. The concluding dress, modelled by Netra, was a tilla work lehenga and dupatta with zardozi detail teamed with spangled khadi blouse.