Five designers break a few rules for men to look sharp and fashion-forward. Ankita Jain gets a grip on their design philosophy
Men earlier thought of fashion as a woman’s forte but are now making personal style statements. Thanks to social media, cinema, fat perks and frequent travels around the world, men too are following seasons, fashion weeks and trend reports. Five designers, namely Arjun Saluja, Dhruv Kapoor, Antar Agni, Sawan Gandhi and Ajay Kumar, therefore, came together under one roof , “The Gentleman’s Club” and expressed themselves through handlooms.
From fun-filled office wear with quirky, colourful socks, ties, stole/scarf and metallic accessories, which can instantly enliven a drab outfit, to traditional kurtas and sherwanis, it had everything that a gentleman requires to dress up.
The modern consumer
From bomber jackets, airforce jackets, shorts, track pants and sequin coats, Dhruv Kapoor designed his collection keeping comfort and elegance as his priorities. He feels that the average Indian man’s attention has shifted from making safe style choices to intricacies. “They are more careful about the detailing now. We’ve grown from a point where the style sense of a man was limited to a classic blue shirt and khaki pants to this coming-of-age modern consumer who is more aware. He is not afraid to throw on a linen shirt with a hand-printed tie. Or sport a home-grown embellishment,” said Dhruv Kapoor. The fabrics used by him included organic denim, jersey, cotton poplin, cotton-silk satin, chiffon and silk satin.
No bling
Ujjawal Dubey is the force behind the label Antar Agni. The collection consists of contrasting fluid fabrics with cleanly constructed silhouettes. “My collection is a bridge between party wear and casual wear. It represents someone who chooses to look his best every day,” said Ujjawal, who frequently designs for Ranbir Kapoor. Mostly made out of raw Indian textiles, his collection consisted of A-structure kurtas and ankle length khaki pants. Free-flowing silhouettes, breathable fitting and subtle colours are what make Antar Agni stand out from the majority. During the exhibition, the designer focussed only on pastel colours as his go-to options. “Modern Indian men are investing time and money on their image and wardrobe. What we wear is the easiest way to express ourselves and assert our individuality. A well-dressed person inspires confidence and aspiration,” he added.
Festive dressing
Whether it’s a Diwali party or a wedding, a basic suit or a kurta simply isn’t enough anymore. A well-balanced Indo-Western style is the perfect festive look. like a kurta with a classic two-button blazer or a classic collar shirt with a Nehru jacket. “When shopping for weddings or festivals, go for fabrics and colours that stand out. Self-textured fabrics look excellent for festive wear. As far as Western formals go, double-breasted jackets are back. Shirts with elegant prints can be worn under a suit to make it more playful. They are also good for an evening out. Well-tailored/bespoke clothing is a must, readymade is out,” said Sawan Gandhi who believes in minimalistic approach. lucknowi sherwani with chikankari work from his collection grabbed everyone’s attention during the exhibition.
Talking about the menswear market growing steadily in India, he explained, “There are two parallels to the evolution of the Indian menswear market. The first one is the ready-to-wear menswear market that has taken the same path as the rest of the Indian menswear industry. The second one is the wedding market. Here’s where we see a major shift. We’re witnessing a more traditional wedding market where men are investing in customary Indian designs.”