While the Censored part of the menu flaunts progressive world cuisine with a unique presentation, the Ann part is more dramatic with fusion efforts and desi accents. Jigyasu Joshi drops in at Gurgaon’s version of AnnCensored
Aptly located in the ever buzzing Sector 29 market of Gurgaon, AnnCensored is an amalgamation of fusion, skill, concepts and presentation. Ann signifies the Indian twist to cuisine from across the world, an uncensored take on world cuisine grammar as it were. Basically, that translates into using new- age technique, liquid nitrogen and giving a fusion spin. Split into three floors with ample sitting space, the décor of the restaurant is simple and warm, in keeping with graphic abstractions that dominate restaurant decor these days. But we have to mention the glass-walled smoking area, the coolest and swankiest private space that makes you feel you have a right to your preferences rather than confining you to victimhood.
We were welcomed with shots of aam panna and curd foam placed in a vapour-emitting box tray with a fancy use of dry ice. The slight sweetness of the curd and the sourness of kacha aam mixed in appropriate proportions did the right job of increasing our appetite. The menu of the restaurant is divided into two parts, Censored and AnnCensored. While the Censored part flaunts of progressive world cuisine with a unique presentation, the AnnCensored part of the menu is more dramatic and works on a tasty mish-mash of the global platter with our ingredients. In short, you get both the usual and unusual in one place, which is good for business. Our starters’ round began with Butter Chicken Croquettes with Makhani Mayo, Chicken Popcorn, Beetroot Tikki and Cheesy Cheese Nachos. The croquettes were a feel-good burst, soft chunks of butter chicken with a crisp covering of bread crumbs dipped in makhani mayonnaise. Not over-cooked or oily, the butter chicken was gentle on spices and simply absorbent, something you cannot say for most chicken dishes.
Next we gorged on chicken popcorns, plain chunks of fried chicken batter-fried in a combination of simple spices served with tomato ketchup. This one had nothing special about it. Moving on. Though not a beetroot lover, we found Beetroot Tikki here worth giving a try, the easy combination of mashed potatoes and beetroot suitably enhanced by bite-sized morsels, crispy spinach, nori and imli chutney, giving it a chaat-like effect.
The next on our table was Cheesy Nachos. This was a total flop as the nachos were neither cheesy, nor were the dips exclusive.
The beverage menu of the restaurant was interesting in parts. One of the redefined classics, Route 69, which is their take on whisky sour with Bourbon, bitters, egg white and tonic, was definitely something to look forward to. Another gem was Pulserate. The concoction of vodka, raw mango and ginger in perfect proportions was refreshing indeed. Then there were the Tiki Cocktails — with quirky shot glasses — reflecting the contemporary way of making cocktails. What caught our attention though was Haldi milk. Vodka and honey mixed in turmeric- infused milk may sound pretentious but it worked well, placed on a bed of dry ice.
The mains section of the menu had a lot to offer in terms of variety. We ordered a chicken platter, which included butter chicken and breads, classic Margarita pizza and Mutton shank berry pulao. The butter chicken was not what we expected. The chicken was fine but some missing flavours and an extra dash of sweetness in the butter gravy robbed it off spunk. However, the Mutton shank berry pulao was as much a treat for the eyes as it was for the palate. The succulent mutton was perfectly cooked in the spices, which permeated down to the last fibre, and emitted a heady aroma enough to ignite our senses. The palatable berry pulao comprised steamed rice with the berries and pine nuts on top which went perfectly with the mutton and gravy. The Mediterranean touch in the rice worked well with the meat. The thin crust pizza was pretty standard, not high up on taste. Even the chilli flakes and oregano were of no help.
The crust was over-crisp and the topping was already sliding from it by the time it came to our table.
After our filling main course, we ordered an orange cheese cake for the dessert. Elegantly decorated with crushed pistachios, the presentation of the dessert got our thumbs up. Coming to its taste, the tanginess of the orange was fitting and the cake melted in the mouth. The trouble with nouvelle outlets is that they either try too hard or rely too much on gimmicky appearances. AnnCensored, no matter how interesting it might sound, still works in patches. They still have to work their way to get a rounded effect. The verdict: Food, just fine. Presentation, unique. Drinks, great.