Charlie Maclean tells Neeti Nigam how to identify a good whisky by smelling it and why the global brands are eyeing the Indian market
He is the unofficial ambassador of whiskey in the world. Gentle, knowledgeable and full of life. Charlie Maclean is a whisky writer and consultant who is probably born to educate people that whiskey is a divine gift. Dressed in a white shirt, he enthusiastically invites me for a session on single malts and its intricacies. After a casual chat, he compliments Indians for their English. “I have travelled to many countries but Indians speak the best among many. Their accent is perfect which is why it is easier to communicate,” Maclean says with a smile. Though his father was a Scot, his mother was English and that helped him perfect the language.
Before becoming an expert, he was a writer. “My father was a surgeon but I wasn’t keen in getting into medical field. I was in love with history but a historian doesn’t get paid well. I pursued law and worked for publishing agencies. I started writing in Scottish art history and non-fiction for a decent pay package.” But writing, too, didn’t seem like a lucrative option to him and in 1980, he took up commercial copy writing. Since most of his clients were whiskey companies, he learnt a lot about the drink. After getting trained in ‘the sensory evaluation of potable spirits’ by the Scotch Whisky Research Institute in 1992, he understood the intricacies involved with whisky. “It happened by fluke. Such courses were not popular during those days and meant strictly for industry people. One last minute cancellation made me a part of it. It was indeed a learning experience as now I just need to smell a drink to find out whether it is single malt or double. I can smell water too,” he says.
Maclean has been a part of numerous tasting sessions by whiskey companies, corporations, universities and clubs. He is also a consultant for the leading brands. In India to promote the Singleton of Glen Ord, a single malt Scotch whisky, he tells me that India is potentially massive market for Western nations but high taxes are a problem. “Over the last 15 years, the Indian palate has changed. The smoky whiskies are most popular here. I too, have tasted Indian whiskies, they are good but most are molasses-based. Therefore it doesn’t match the international criteria,” he says and adds, “Once Vijay Mallya asked me why European Union doesn’t allow Indian whiskies to enter their marketIJ We have learnt the basics like distilling from you Scots.”
A true aficionado identifies his drink with its aroma. There are basically six scent groups — winey, cereal, floral, woody, peaty and fruity. “These are further sub-divided. So a fruity can be fresh, dried, cooked, tinned and artificial. We identify a whisky with these flavours and colours,” he says while pouring a Singleton of Glen Ord in a glass. “It is rich, smooth and well-balanced whisky,” I say as I sip while looking at him. He knows that I am a novice. “This has been matured in a combination of mainly American (Bourbon) oak and some European (sherry) casks,” he informs. Maclean tells me how this “men’s drink” is getting popular among women, too. “Women do understand their drink,” he comments and says that most young Scots love vodka over whisky. “You need to acquire a taste for this drink. As men age, they start understanding whisky,” he says. But isn’t your job tough as you need to maintain a fine balance between drinking for profession and pleasureIJ I ask. “Rigorous early morning walk keeps me fit,” he sums up.