Trisha Mukherjee took a walk in the bylanes of Chandni Chowk to discover fried kulfi served with dollops of chocolate sauce
As one walks through the streets in Chawri Bazaar, across the Hauz Qazi Chowk, stalls and eateries at every nukkad and galli hint towards Delhi’s obsession with kulfi. The relationship of Delhi and kulfi is not new. The craze for mitti ki khullar wali kulfi is believed to have originated in Sitaram Bazaar in Old Delhi and it has only grown over the years.
Among the leading and ancient dealers of kulfi in Sitaram Bazaar is Babu Ram Gupta Kulfiwale. Having started off in the 1940s, they have been in this business for three generations now. Aman Gupta currently runs the show.
While the conventional kesar-pista and rabri-badam remain to be evergreen flavours, experimentation has given rise to almost 6,000 varieties. “Kulfi fried desi is one of a kind. We cover the kesar pista kulfi with dry fruits and then it is deep fried. The fried kulfi is served with chocolate sauce or syrup and is garnished with nuts,” informed Aman.
Stuffed kulfi, available in orange, mango and apple flavours, is sold at a price of Rs 200 per piece. “The pulp is scooped out of the fruit and then filled with milk and cream to prepare the dessert. The flavoured kulfi served in the fruit shell. It is a speciality and is prepared only for party orders,” said Aman. Gyani Di Hatti in Chandni Chowk has been famous since 1951. Although the shop is known for its chhole bhature the meal here is incomplete without rabri faluda.
“I live in Narayana, but whenever I am in Chandni Chowk to visit my mother, both of us make it a point to come here and have rabri faluda. Years ago it was sold at Rs 15 and today it’s for Rs 70,” said Jitender Tanwar, a regular to the shop.
While the biggies have always been in spotlight, school children only go for street stalls (thelas). “We mix milk, kesar, badaam and pista and make rabri out of it and finally put it in the sancha (mould) to give it the shape of a tila,” said Mohammad Wasif, who sets up his little thela, Khushdil Kulfi, every morning at 10 in Bazaar lal Kuan.
photos Sanjeev Kumar