Raghavendra Rathore, the man who patented two authentic Indian exports – Jodhpuris and bandgalas, talks about his passion and aesthetics, his design school and first job at DKNY. By Unnati Joshi
Tell us about The Gurukul School of Design. You have already been mentoring young designers, what will the school be likeIJ
The Gurukul School of Design will teach the value of Indian culture through its interpretation of the Gurukul way of life and imparts specialised knowledge to students to become entrepreneurs, as soon as they graduate. The institute will build a “valuable” brand via modern communication skills, emphasise the business hemisphere so that design students can read ‘balance sheets’ and more importantly value the immense knowledge of our heritage and the rich resources.
A special curriculum has been designed meticulously by me and some international and local experts. The program stresses on deeper maturity of design, the ability to visualise and market a creative idea with modern communication tools, the business acumen behind the idea and importantly via the Gurukul way of life.
The courses will span over four years, taking the students through a journey which will introduce them to a fascinating volley of unique and short courses. These design hacks will strengthen their foundation of design and skill sets which will come very handy later in their lives.
It is my understanding that the fashion landscape is evolving rapidly. Therefore it is imperative for students to be agile, knowledgeable, pragmatic and have the intuitive ability to take a U-turn if or when necessary, negotiate vigorously, adapt to a changing situation and be able to communicate their creative vision clearly, in the noisy business of fashion.
Besides working on focussed design assignments, the students will be encouraged to travel to international locations and understand the global art and design prospective. Other influential regions for exposure will also be planned, to give the students global exposure and knowledge.
The thought behind Gurukul is to bring about a change in the way of teaching, a more rooted and practical approach to design.
Why JaipurIJ
The location of the campus in Jaipur will give students immediate access to handicrafts, endless textiles and rare techniques, which makes this region a global cultural hub. The hustle and bustle of a large city which is always a distraction, will be replaced by the serene and calmness of the Gurukul methodology. The aim is to provide a new way of “thinking design” and provide a sound and a holistic education.
How is it going to be different and practical compared to existing design schoolsIJ
According to me, right now we are going through a silent revolution in the country where in we are shifting from a manufacturing to a design-oriented outlook. The shift created will require huge talent in the future and we need to be prepared to optimally leverage this design revolution.
At GSD, the aim is to not just create a designer but a successful brand. The deeply rooted Indian Gurukul way of learning juxtaposed with new global commercial wisdom, will be the key differentiator and disruptor for Gurukul School of Design.
What are the flaws that made you think of a teaching mechanismIJ What are the areas that you think need to be worked uponIJ
What I realised is the present curriculums only focus on developing the skills of design. I believe, it is important to understand the business behind the design, in other words, education must span across, the business acumen, the ability to market your idea and most importantly be able to set up a start-up soon after graduating. Making students into entrepreneurs and brand savvy brand marketers through a unique program is what we will be emphasising at the Gurukul School of Design.
The experience that existing design schools offer in India, need a rethink and a thoughtful transformation of the curriculum and the ambience that they offer. Students must demand a more customised education that is fit for the Asian region and not just an associated program with a Western university. These changes will help bring back faith in what is there on offer in design schools in India versus the West.
What sparked your interest in fashion designIJ Was fashion designing always your dreamIJ
Fashion designing happened as a result of my understanding of aesthetics, ability to sketch and put textures together. My real passion was the love for electronics, creating gadgets and understanding how things work. A form of art derivative of technology is something I am now pursuing and maybe this is something that would have taken dominance.
My education was a journey of learning, my passion still lies in understanding how efficient things and systems work, integrating with cutting-edge technology but my early exposure to the study of design changed the course of my life. I believe design is a philosophy of life, it encompasses every hemisphere and singularly the vision can shape the future.
Tell us about your initial years in the fashion industryIJ
The gap in the market and lack of awareness to heritage clothing were key triggers to set the brand in motion. The zeal to wear a classic bandhgala suit or Jodhpuri breeches among the niche customer helped me in highlighting the heritage look through my craft and building a brand that would take care of this kind of demand nationally and internationally.
Any anecdotes that you rememberIJ
DKNY in New York was an exciting first job, designing collections for the power house brand and the first show at the magnificent Meherangarh Fort in Jodhpur was the perfect tribute to early beginnings of promoting heritage through fashion.
What were the biggest challenges that you had to face during your journey in the Indian fashion industryIJ
Being from a small town like Jodhpur, it was difficult to create a brand that would have wide reaching impact and make available the defining product like the classic RR bandhgala to a global audience.
Who and what were your early influencesIJ
Culture and heritage were the two pillars of my childhood. The genesis of aesthetic articulation in my mind stems from the enormous impact of my father’s styling and his wardrobe that was created by my mother. Hence to a degree the influences from how people dressed in the family has had some imprint in how we customise fashion for bespoke clientele.
What do you think has been the biggest change in the Indian fashion industryIJ
The Indian fashion industry is nascent in its origins compared to the Western hemisphere, the growth is biological. The impediments that the industry will constantly battle with will be the high rate of doing business on real estate and the lack of upscale retail. Midmarket brands will flourish while the luxury brands will have to wait a little bit longer.
What is your design aestheticIJ
Simple and Classic
Had you pursued your higher studies in India instead of abroad, do you feel that you would have gained the same exposure and encouragement from your teachers to go forward with designingIJ
Two decades ago, studying design was seen as a hobby and not as a career. Education for it was scarce and one had no option but to pursue it overseas. Times are very different now and the opportunities are also ample.
Are you glad that you did a range of diverse jobs so that you could decide exactly where your interest liesIJ
My journey was a bit unique, as I went to study robotics, landed up studying Greek mythology and finally finished from Parsons School of design as a designer. It was never planned, one thing connected with the other. I also preferred the biological approach.
What are you fascinated by at the moment and how does it feed into your workIJ
The new appetite for customised clothing and building a lifestyle around one’s character is an interesting idea that is fueling the new desire of bespoke services in India. The versatility of the Indian man and woman to be able to bridge the gap between traditional and global landscapes so seamlessly, is something that is really exciting to me. Therefore, it inspires me to create the perfect blend of traditional and contemporary influences in my designs.
A timeless fashion ruleIJ
Always wear what you are comfortable in and can be carried nicely.
5 must haves in a wardrobeIJ
Iconic denim, super classic white crisp shirt, a hand-tailored bandhgala waistcoat, socks but with crazy colours and a nice cologne.
Advice for budding designersIJ
Playing around with what already exists will not help them in the longer run. My advice to young designers is that, design for people and not for yourself. They need to nurture an exclusive style of their own and stick to their brand DNA.
The biggest drawback I see designers make is delve into what's considered the season's trend-say, for example, animal prints. Instead, they should focus on their brand identity and innovate from the ground up. After all, today’s customers want to spend money not on the gimmicks that they see on ramps but in products that they believe in. The day you understand the market and your clients, you will eventually become a brand that people would like to associate with.
What are the qualities one needs to be a part of fashion industryIJ
Creativity and passion towards designing