Vivacity

Ghosts who talk

Darpan Mago

Along with the stories of djinns, the fort of Firoz Shah has wonders inside. Not many know that the dilapidated pillar in the premise is nearly 2,300 years old and actually an Ashokan pillar from Topra in Haryana. By Darpan Mago

Djinns, the supernatural creatures in Islamic mythology, reside in Delhi. According to many popular beliefs, all the abandoned places are homes to these djinns. As the gentle breeze makes soft whistling sound in your ears, there is a feeling of an unexplained presence as you stand atop the Firoz Shah Kotla fort. Delhi has had its share of tumultuous past and numerous unheard stories lurk in every nook and corner of the city. A little time off from the urbanised and busy lives can open a new world of never heard of tales.

A few people in the city are taking initiatives to unfurl these dusty accounts. Delhi by Foot is an organisation that conducts heritage walks across Delhi and ‘Shaam-e-Iftaar with Djinns of Delhi’ was one such walk at Firoz Shah Kotla Fort. It was all about interesting historical tales of djinns from the area and ended with a delectable meal at Iftaar. Telling us about the popular beliefs in the area, Ramit, the organiser of walk and the founder of Delhi by Foot, said, “It is believed that djinns were made by God from a smokeless fire and assigned the task of helping the mankind. Miraj, the head of djinns had a son called Iblis, who defied God’s instructions of helping humans and was banished from the heavens along with his followers. Iblis felt that as he was more powerful than human beings, he shouldn’t serve their needs and wishes. later, when Iblis and others realised their fault, they started praying to the God to be back in heaven again. The God agreed but conferred a punishment that djinns will have to work for the mankind till qayamat ki raat (Judgment Day) before they are taken back to heavens. Now as they are already on our earth, they stay in all abandoned places.”

The fort of Firoz Shah is a less magnificent structure and not usually the one we associate with the word ‘fort.’ It has many small chambers and people can be seen praying in different corners. Flowers, incense sticks and prayer items can be seen lying in these corners, as people believe that djinns reside in such corners or chambers. “There was a saint by the name of Baba laddoo Shah near Turkman Gate in Delhi. Due to some construction activities in the place the government told him to shift his abode from Turkman Gate to Feroz Shah Kotla Fort. After coming here, he said that he felt spirits at that place. He used to say that even if he dies people shouldn’t stop coming and praying at this fort. I, too, have felt that some unexplained energies reside in the area. When you come here and stay till a late evening or it is one of those strange weather days, you will feel something different. I cannot describe the feeling, but it is like something is around and you’re being watched. But, at the end of the day everything boils down to your faith and beliefs,” said Ramit. This fort was part of the bigger city known as Ferozabad and holds the distinction of being built close to Yamuna river. The work to build the place began around 1350s and around 1354 CE the structure had started taking shape.

The place also has a rich history. Not many know that the dilapidated pillar in the fort is actually an Ashokan pillar with Pali and Brahmi scripts are scribbled on it. The pillar was brought from Topra in Haryana through river route. “People believe that this pillar is head of all djinns and is djinn ki lath or the djinn’s stick (lathi). It is nearly 2,300 years old and weights around 30 tonnes,” informed Ramit.

At the end of the walk, the participants were served with delicacies like bagara rice, mirchi ka salan, halim and vegetarian lukmi. The experience ended on a sweet note — with desserts like double ka meetha and khubani ka meetha.

photos Sanjeev Kumar