Designer Payal Jain’s latest collection is the epitome of subtlety and understatement. By Asmita Sarkar
Models looked like beautiful sirens while walking the ramp for fashion designer Payal Jain, only they were not lethal. Subdued tones of white and off-white with sudden bursts of colour were the main theme of the Moonlit collection, which was unlike the grand bridal couture that has been dominating the wedding and couture weeks so far.
The silhouettes draping the women, who looked ethereal in the light and dressed in white, which had only sprinkles of glitter, were Western, Indian and a mash-up of both. One of the outfits, a chikan jumpsuit that had thin straps along with a net jacket caught our eye. These goddesses of the night were all crowned with floral headwear. “White is my personal favourite space so I just decided to stick to it. That’s why it’s called Moonlit. The world becomes white when the moon is out. White has always inpired me,” said Jain.
The collection, as she added, has “every possible Indian craft that you could think of”. The sarees, dresses, jumpsuits or suits have chikan, kinkab, kathwan, resham dori, zardozi, and other crafts that are all interspaced, together yet subtle. “Only when you take a closer look at the garment can you find the magic in it and will start seeing all of the crafts,” she said.
Despite the detailed embroidery and other designs, the outfits seemed light and breezy unlike bridal lehengas that are heavy and restrict movement. The collection is perfect for any casual or formal event. It is also perfect for brides willing to forego tradition and make a statement.
An industry veteran, she has been around for 25 years and got her first break for creating corporate uniforms. Since then, she has come a long way and has made a name for creating couture that is not limited to bridal wear. “I believe my design sensibility can be summed up as less is more. I think couture needs to have a mystery about it so that you can discover more. If everything is there for you to see in the first instant there’s no magic left to it. I’m a very subtle and understated designer. It’s my personal sensibility and it’s always been that way. In all my collections, prêt, diffusion or couture or what I do internationally, it always tends to be subtle,” said Jain.
Actress Vaani Kapoor had turned showstopper for the night. She stood out in the entire collection in a blood red gown. “I wanted Vaani to be special. Red is a really good colour for her skin. She’s a vibrant person with great energy. She’s a breath of fresh air,” she added.
The actress, who was last seen in Befikre with Ranvir Singh, will be seen in Shamshera with Ranbir Kapoor and an untitled project with director Siddharth Anand for which the shoot will begin soon.
Having walked the ramp for Jain earlier, she only had praises for the designer. “I love her collection. She’s a great soul. The outfits are so wearable and we all can love and connect with the outfits she makes,” said Kapoor.
Photo: Pankaj Kumar