le Bistro du Parc offers French cuisine with an Indian touch. Its owner Naina de Bois-Juzan chats with Shrabasti Mallik on the bistronomie concept
Turning the leaves of the menu is as much an indulgence as gorging on food for many of us. But here what we have in our hands is the blackboard with the names of dishes scribbled on it. We were told by the staff that it is the signature style of le Bistro du Parc at Defense Colony.
The French bistro was set up last year by Naina de Bois-Juzan, half French, half Punjabi, who spent most of her life in France. After travelling most parts of the world, she decided to come up with her own joint in her native land. The reason, she says, is “lack of French eateries in Delhi.”
She joins us on the table in the cosy corner of the restaurant filled with sunshine shades. A shot of tomato and cucumber gazpacho works wonders on the palate as an amuse bouche, while Naina explains us the concept of bistronomie. “At its roots, bistronomie is a fusion between French gastronomy and the friendly neighbourhood bistro. Unlike pure gastronomy, bistronomie prides itself on accessibility. Bistronomie is a concept that started in Paris a few years ago by young adventurous chefs who wanted to break down barriers and revolutionise the city’s age-old Michelin guarded culinary scene. As result of the economic crisis, people were driven to return to bistro settings where dishes were more reassuring yet celebrated French gastronomy.”
Naina says that it is a misconception that French eat more meat than vegetarian food. “In fact, the chef here is French and he cooks amazing vegetarian. Since I was opening a diner in India, I had to keep many vegetarian dishes in the menu to cater to the majority,” she says.
On Naina’s suggestion, we go for their famous chicken liver pate with pear coulis for starters. The presentation surely is appealing with the liver pate served on a black slate garnished with greens of the spring onion.
Next on offer is savoury sponge cake with vegetable maki roll. The maki rolls are goat cheese wrapped in a layer of cucumber and broccoli mousse wrapped in a finely sliced piece of carrot. It is served on a carrot vinegorette with finely diced cucumber.
We decide on the pan fried red snapper with fennel and green pea mousse for the main course. The fish is served on a thin layer of green pea mousse and is coated with fennel cream sauce with an assortment of sauté vegetables — asparagus, mushrooms, caramelised lemon, baby potatoes and tomatoes. The fish is fresh and juicy, the kind every fish lover would love. One can also try their tomato and mozzarella tart with caramelised onion with sautéd spinach (sprinkled with mozzarella crème sauce) on the side.
For dessert, what Naina calls the most important part of a good meal, we settle for the Valrhona chocolate rocher. “It is our original creation. It is Ferro Rocher chocolate coated with almonds on top,” Naina says. Shaped like a semicircle, the inside of the chocolate dessert is a genache (a mix of Valrhona chocolates, the famous produce of South East France). It was dark chocolate, hence a bit bitter. One can also try poached pear with vanilla crème and caramel sauce and citrus banana with pistachio daquoise and homemade marshmallow.
The bistro opens its doors every day at 12 noon. ‘lunch set menu’ is available Monday to Friday with two and three course options for both vegetarians and non-vegetarians.