The Coorgi cuisine at the Daniell’s Tavern, The Imperial, comes with a generous dose of spices to keep you warm in winter. Eram Agha sampled the fare
Winters have set in early giving the denizens a reason to indulge in absolutely lip-smacking, finger-licking, warmth-inducing spicy savouries from down south — Coorg. A visit to Daniell’s Tavern at The Imperial turned out to be an affair with Coorgi cuisine that is doused in warm spices like mace and pepper.
Executive sous chef Prem Kumar Pogakula went all the way to Coorg to dig out the delectable numbers. After a brief stay he realised that authentic preparations would not be possible, the flavours can be introduced with some changes — so he kept spices intact, dropped pork, replaced the souring agent Kachampuli vinegar with tamarind pulp, and whipped up a mix of Coorgi-food-for-all. “People in that region consume pork, which I don’t think would have been well received here. I have used lamb and chicken and prepared them in spices meant for pork preparations. The hot pastes go well with the smokiness of pork meat, but suits other meats, too,” he shared. The conservative palate had nothing to complain about, as chicken and mutton items became an instant hit.
Food from cooler climes of South India — Ooty and Coorg — is a little different from the offerings of other South Indian regions, as they pack a generous dose of warming elements, “I have used tamarind, which is not used in this cuisine because it has cooling effects,” Kumar said. Coorg is not very rich with cooking techniques like grills and tandoors. They have simple home-style cooking which is all about frying, sautéing and it was a pleasant change to have that in a fine dining restaurant.
It was a meaty start with mutton chops wrapped in coriander and pepper paste. The meat was tender and well cooked in spices. Along came khaima unde — the delicious minced meat balls and hot chicken fry. The spice levels work for the Indian palate; we are sued to that dose. The taste of coriander lingers long… cleanse the palate with some lemon soda mix or just water. Though a dominantly meat rich cuisine, it has some vegetable preparations to boast of, too, like yam fry and potato masala, which were made by boiling the vegetables and then frying them.
The non-vegetarian soup was a reminder of how the same food gets the different name in another region — mutton bones soup, which was made by frying the bones and then adding meat pieces, is relished in lucknow and Hyderabad as paya ki nihari. Here, I enjoyed it with a different name and a different garnish — curry leaves. The vegetarian soup was refreshing mix of coconut milk and mushrooms.
Main course was served in shimmering thalis covered with banana leaf and smelling of rich coconut based prawn curry. It went divinely with neyi kolu or ghee rice. The milk is gently reduced; rigorous boiling should be avoided if you want to try it at home. Bean, chicken and vegetable korma are a must try. There were no breads and desserts. You didn’t miss them too! Such is the spice of life…