SodaBottleOpenerWala gives away a perfect colonial Bombaiya vibe through its vintage ambience and a scrumptious Parsi menu, says Shambhavi Suri
On a cold, gloomy winter afternoon, walking in one of the most ostentatious markets of Delhi — the Khan Market — I walk into a Bombaiya-Irani restaurant which, takes one back to old and simpler times. As I climbed up the narrow steps of SodaBottleOpenerWala that lead me into the main arena, I looked at the walls covered with photos and mirrors with vintage frames that gave it a colonial vibe. The steps, however, had certain ‘Rules of Establishment’ such as ‘no abusing’, ‘no pointing fingers’, ‘no politics’, ‘no flirting’, ‘no asking for recipe’, which could tickle one’s funny bones. As I looked around, its half-window curtains, double doors, chai and maska bun (buttered bun) and Parsi omelette for wall art gave the place’s décor a traditional Parsi touch. The wooden tables and chairs, drop-down green lamps, cutting chai glasses placed on each table, set a Mumbai canteen atmosphere. Nonetheless, the place gave me a chance to live and experience a bygone era as it played hit Hollywood and Bollywood songs of the 90s in the background.
The chain is celebrating its fifth anniversary, with the ‘Rum and Crab’ festival which uses the flavours of the Konkan coast, paired with some spicy concoctions of rum cocktails. Perfect to heat things up in the city around this weather. The crab delicacies were presented through the thali concept where three thalis, Matunga, Maharashtrian and Parsi, catered to different palates.
The service started with a crab soup. It was a light brown broth with chopped onions, tomatoes and coriander, packed with wholesome flavours and spices. The best thing about the soup was its simplicity that made it truly delicious.
Out came the rum cocktails next, the Castro Mojito and Bawi’s Hurricane. The Castro Mojito was made with a Cuban rum, muddled with raspberries and saffron puree whereas Bawi’s Hurricane had rum mixed with pomegranate and passion fruit syrup, garnished with mandarin orange, strong but its fruitiness cannot disappoint you.
Next came the humongous thali that had 11 elements including two Ragi Rotis, steamed rice topped with fried garlic flakes, Raita and Saria papad. The star of the thali is a coconut-based red crab curry with a whole crab in it. (Make sure you don’t spill the curry while cutting the crab.) It has a sweet flavour but don’t be fooled by it as the punch of heat can hit you hard but it is certainly enjoyable in this weather.
The thali also feature a bowl of Dal moringa made with masoor dal, that simply made my day. Its creamy and smooth texture with the lentils melting in your mouth, is comfort food that’ll have you digging in for more.
Bhaji Dana was another element in the thali. Even though it is typically made with mutton, this one wasn’t. It had the seasonal amarnath leaves, fenugreek leaves and green peas, the combination added a little bitterness but gave the freshness to the thali that it needed to counter all the richness.
Moving on, there was the Baingan Bharta, just like the way it is cooked at home but that’s what makes it so spectacular — the feeling of being at home. Its sweetness will definitely help you to cool things down from all the spice you’d eat.
Next was the crunchy golden ball of goodness which is called the Maharashtrian style Mini vada which tasted like a typical sweet and sour version of the dish. This was as mouth-watering as it can get and will make you ask for more. This added a touch of miracle to the thali which elevated the experience.
Then, there was a green chilli thecha and the red coconut chutney to add a little bit of spice, if you aren’t getting enough. The Thecha, as is the norm, had crushed peanuts that added a crunch and nutty flavour to it.
To end the meal, they served the Strawberry raspberry mousse and an Apple anjeer kheer. The Mousse’s sweet taste and the sourness of the berries combined with the creamy texture of the mousse was a match made in heaven. It takes you back to the days when you wanted to eat strawberry ice cream as a child, to satisfy your sweet-tooth. As for the Apple anjeer kheer, I haven’t tasted anything like it before. It had a thick consistency and also a bite to it. The sweetness of the dish was derived from the anjeer and apple as there was no added sugar. For those who do not like their desserts to be too sweet, this one is for you.
Curated with thought and executed with perfection, the thali perfectly balanced all the flavours — from sweet to hot, spicy and bitter with elements that were fresh, creamy, crisp and crunchy. The thali proved to be non-pretentious and delicious.
Spending an afternoon, drinking and eating food that speaks in the language of emotions, representing a rich Parsi heritage, is an afternoon spent well. Also, if you’re looking for an opportunity to sit back, relax and experience the laid-back life of the 20th century, this is the place for you to be in.