Melbourne-based Indian origin designer Roopa Pemmaraju will showcase for the first time in India at the forthcoming fashion week. She chats with Divya Kaushik about her creations that combine the Indian weaving tradition with indigenous Australian art
There are many reasons why the fashion conscious across the globe are going gaga about Indian designers and their creations. Apart from the colour palette, fine detailing and intricate embroidery, Indian creations are marvelled at for the use of interesting fabrics. So it is no wonder that renowned fashion designers from over the world have been turning to India to work with the weavers here. Widespread appreciation and acclaim these designers receive at famed runways of Milan and Paris further encourage others. India-born Melbourne-based fashion designer Roopa Pemmaraju is one such known name in the global fashion arena whose creations, mostly based on Indian fabrics, have inspired many others from her fraternity.
Roopa was born in Bengaluru and later moved to Australia. She has been visiting India frequently to work with artisans from Karnataka, Rajasthan and Maharashtra. But despite her extensive work here, it comes as a surprise that she never showcased her collection in India. However, Roopa is now all geared up to make her foray into the Indian market. At the forthcoming fashion week she will be presenting a luxury ready-to-wear collection featuring original artworks by Indigenous Australian artists on garments using fabrics created by Indian artisans. She says, “I was waiting for the right platform and opportunity to showcase in India. I really want to thank Fashion Design Council of India and Australian High Commissioner Patrick Suckling for their support. Over the years, Indian fashion market has expanded and there lies a big potential for brands from across the globe. The kind of work that I do is different in the sense that it is more about wearable art and I think the understanding of fashion here has evolved big time. I am hoping that my collection will get a good response here and then may be I can look forward to opening a store here soon.” The designer who showcased alongside Indian fashion legend Manish Arora at a gala fashion event in Sydney adds, “It is a privilege to be working creatively with two ancient cultures and to be able to bring them together in a contemporary way for the modern woman. Although we are working to preserve a traditional craft, we are always seeking ways to create new innovative fabrics or testing the limits of the traditions to create beautiful modern designs.” The collection that will be showcased here has been created in collaboration with renowned Indigenous Australian artists — including Warlukurlangu artists from Yuendumu, Rosie Napurrurla Tasman from Warlpiri culture and Reko Rennie, whose art incorporates his association to the Kamilaroi people. In developing this collection in India, Roopa has collaborated with weavers from Varanasi, Karnataka, Maharashtra and Studio Calantha, a Bengaluru-based atelier. The production team helps turn the vision into modern silhouettes and beautifully-produced garments.
“When I moved to Australia, I was determined to work with something that represents the culture of two countries. My home being in India, a lot of inspiration has been coming from here and the textile tradition and rich legacy that we have is unparallel. So I decided to work with Indian weavers to create my own fabrics from cotton, silk, georgettes and other Indian fabrics. From Karnataka I have mostly worked with silk and georgette, I have used brocades from Varanasi and cotton from Rajasthan. I have to reproduce the fabric to suit the autumn/winter or summer line that I create. I also have used a lot of hand embroidery, screen printing and block printing from India. Embellishment has played a big role in the jackets that I create. What I try doing in most of my creations is to present traditional craft in a new, interesting way that is fashionable and wearable,” says the designer who now wants to explore the craft traditions of the Northeast for her future line. She informs, “I like the texture of the fabric that they use to make their skirts and the borders that are added to them. I am keen to work with artisans from Manipur.”
Apart from Manish Arora, Roopa has been a fan of Rajesh Pratap Singh. “He has created wonders with Indian textiles. He is a designer with brilliant business sense. Also, he has an excellent way of presenting his collection. A designer’s job is not just to design but to create an impact and influence people, I think Rajesh knows very well how to do that. Every year, he has something new to offer,” she says.
Roopa is testing waters in India so far, however, she says that she may retail her line soon by partnering with some designer boutique. “That will give my brand an opening and exposure and then I may plan to come up with my first store in India. Delhi being the fashion hub will be the city for my first store,” she says.
Roopa believes in fair trade and ethical dealings with artists and their communities. Royalties from the sale of each garment are returned to artists’ communities. “We are delighted to facilitate this exchange of artistic ideas and cultural heritage between two ancient ways of life,” she says.