Tea in China is not just a drink. It’s something that the Chinese live by. Their philosophies and ideologies — from Confucianism, Taoism, Buddhism to Maoism blend with the mystic brew of tea. Kestur Vasukitravels to Beijing to find out how the Chinese have a tea for all occasions and it’s not just the fine leaves and brewing that gives them their perfect cuppa. It is the attitude and environment that adds the flavour and aroma
A must visit to tea malls in Beijing takes you through the cultural past of China. Tea, which is a supreme drink has its place embedded for years and has not been affected by a changing China. For them the brew of the monks has all the material for a sound body and soul. Jing, Yi Zen, or the tea ceremony for peace and enjoyment is a mystic brew brought forward in metamorphosis of a Chinese society. The tea and the brew were used by the monks in the temples as a herbal medicine and it still links the past and the present. All the philosophies and ideologies in China from Confucianism, Taoism, Buddhism to Maoism blend with the mystic brew of tea. The ceremonial cup of tea from dynastic rulers to modern day China has warmed relations between nations and peoples.
Jasmine (not her Chinese name) a professional tea brewer at the Yixin Tea House in the heart of Beijing explains the mystic brew and its consequences on Chinese society. She was intense in her prophecy that tea would bridge and bond her nation always as it has in the past. Jasmine not only explained about many blends of tea but also the tea philosophy in which the nation believes. She says, “We have hundreds of tea varieties and it is our tradition to drink tea in all occasions. We have tea for all diseases too.”
Jasmine made me drink many shots of tea one after the other and each tea was about a divine brew. She says, “We don’t use milk or sugar in the tea. The selected tea is soaked in the boiling water. We adhere to a single principle —don’t overboil the tea”. I was awestruck with her knowledge of tea and the great history behind tea ceremonies in China.
The first written account of tea ceremonies was during the Tang Dynasty over 1200 years ago. The term to describe the serving of tea was initially called Cha Dao or the way of tea. Japanese monks traveling through China during this period began to learn tea and tea culture. After bringing this knowledge back to Japan, tea ceremonies evolved in Japan as it blended with Japanese culture resulting in the well-known Japanese Tea Ceremony and is still called Cha Dao. Although Cha Dao originated in China, many felt a new term was needed to distinguish between Japanese and Chinese tea ceremonies. In 1970, a Taiwanese Tea Master, lu Zi Kuang coined the term Cha Yi or art of tea, to represent current Chinese tea ceremonies.
The sprawling Yixin Tea House promoting tea and its culture looks a perfect setting for a film shooting. The precision planning at the tea rooms (where tea ceremonies are held) and the paraphernalia used for preparations of the brew are amazing and mind boggling. Jasmine went ahead with her lessons about the impact of drinking tea on your health. She says, “If you are an alcoholic you must have this tea, if you have BP you must try another brew of tea, if you want to relax you have yet another variety.” She demonstrated the preparation of varieties of the brew and stressed on its medicinal value. Along with the demonstration, Jasmine symbolically introduced its culture imbibed into a nation.
“Tea ceremonies have been held as a sign of respect, for a family gathering, to apologize, to express thanks to elders, wedding day, to connect large families on wedding days and on all other occasions,” explains Jasmine.
She said, folding the napkin in tea ceremonies is a traditional action and is done to keep away bad Qi energy in China as tea was regarded as one of the seven daily necessities.
Grant, a Chinese official tour guide in Beijing said tea ceremonies in China was entirely different from that of Japanese tea ceremonies. He says, “Tea culture in China differs from that of Europe, Britain or Japan in such things as preparation methods, tasting methods and the occasions for which it is consumed”.
Even now, in both casual and formal Chinese occasions, tea is consumed regularly. In addition to being a drink, Chinese tea is used in traditional Chinese medicine and in their cuisine.
Tea is the binding factor in the world today. Be it ‘four Cups of Tea’ that bonds lifelong relationships, be it a Chinese or a Japanese ceremony or just an invigorating cup of tea, the world, all tea lovers would simply say, ‘Wah Cha’!
For that perfect cuppa
There are six major aspects to consider when performing a Chinese tea ceremony.
Attitude– The attitude of the person performing the ceremony should reflect both a happy and confident demeanor. The performer should exude a calm and relaxed manner to create a peaceful and enjoyable tea ceremony.
Tea Selection – There are many considerations when selecting the right tea. In addition to fragrance, shape and taste, the tea should have a beautiful story and name.
Water Selection – The best quality tea leaves will have poor taste if bad quality water is used. Therefore, select pure, light and clean water to ensure a wonderful tasting tea.
Teaware Selection – It is important to select the correct teaware for brewing your tea leaves. In addition, allow your participants to fully appreciate the teaware by selecting both useful and beautiful items.
Ambience– A peaceful and calm environment can be created with a clean, comfortable and quiet room. Artwork can be used to enhance the overall atmosphere of the space.
Technique– The basic skills for brewing tea are needed but also a graceful manner reflected through hand movements, facial expressions and clothing.
Symbolism
In China, virtually every dwelling — even down to the simplest mud hut has a set of tea chinaware for brewing a hot cup of tea. These implements are symbols of welcome for visitors or neighbours.
Traditionally, a visitor to a Chinese home will be expected to sit down and drink tea while talking; the Chinese consider having such visits while standing to be uncouth. There are several types of tea: green tea, oolong tea, red tea, black tea, white tea, yellow tea, puerh tea and flower tea. Tea leaves are traditionally produced by constantly turning fresh leaves in a deep bowl. This process allows the tea to dry with its full flavor ready to be used.
Four Chinese tea cups
light finger tapping is a custom for thanking the tea master or tea server for tea. After a person’s cup is filled, that person may knock their bent index and middle fingers (or some similar variety of finger tapping) on the table to express gratitude to the person who served the tea. Although this custom is common in southern Chinese culture such as the Cantonese, in other parts of China it is only acceptable if for some reason you cannot actually say thank you at that moment, for example if you are in the middle of talking with someone else at the table, you can do without saying thank you.
This custom is said to have originated in the Qing Dynasty when Emperor Qian long would travel in disguise through the empire. Servants were told not to reveal their master’s identity. One day in a restaurant, the emperor, after pouring himself a cup of tea, filled a servant’s cup as well. To that servant it was a huge honour to have the emperor pour him a cup of tea. Out of reflex he wanted to kneel and to express his thanks. He could not kneel and kowtow to the emperor since that would reveal the emperor’s identity so he bent his fingers on the table to express his gratitude and respect to the emperor.
The bent fingers for knocking are technically supposed to be three to signify a bowing servant. One is the head and the other two are the arms.
It should be noted that in formal tea ceremonies nodding of the head and/or saying thank you is more appropriate.
Brew it right
Green teas are more delicate than oolong teas or black teas and should be brewed with cooler water. The most informal method of brewing tea is the simple adding of leaves to a pot and pour hot water. This method is commonly found in households and restaurants, as at dim sum or yum cha in Cantonese restaurants. Two other primary methods of brewing tea are the Chaou method and the Gongfucha method.
Chaou brewing tends towards a more formal occasion and is generally used for more delicate teas, medicinal teas and tea tastings. Gongfucha brewing is a far more formal method of tea brewing (mainly for oolong or double fermented teas like Puerh) although even this method can be made more or less formal depending on the occasion. The first Ming Dynasty Emperor, Hongwu contributed to the development of loose tea brewing by banning the production of compressed tea.