It’s already getting warm and the very idea of going to the hills is rejuvenating. Navneet Mendiratta does the same as she visits Naldehra near Shimla
It’s a warm day. The day I arrive at The Chalets, Naldehra. It is a resort/boutique property near Shimla in Himachal Pradesh, placed strategically next to a beautiful golf course. It’s summer already, albeit a strange one this year with intermittent rain confusing the weatherman and upsetting the farmer up north. I soak in the morning sun and smell rain somewhere. It was quite a drive on my way up here, having disembarked at the Kalka station. I’d chosen to take Shatabdi from the New Delhi station, splitting the journey into rail and road. A wise decision, I figure in retrospect, saving me some time and exertion of long road travel.
I am soon shown my room at The Chalets — a log hut modelled on the Scandanavian log homes complete with live fire place. It’s a beautiful one, right next to a thickly forested Cedar patch. I like the thought of live fire by the night and the warmth of it infusing in body and soul. Almost instinctively, I reach out to open the window by my bedroom, only to stop in time — there are monkeys eyeing an opportunity to break in. Instead, I opt to step out and into the sunny glasshouse style restaurant.
Set up on almost two acres of land, this boutique property is located right next to the famous golf course of Naldehra. Done up mostly in wood, it exudes warmth and sheer luxury at the same time offering facilities like fine dining, golf, swimming and several other outdoor activities. As I sip my hot cuppa, I take in the magnificent view of thick cedar (deodar) forest. There is a tempting forest track beckoning me to explore some on my own.
“That one leads to the Nag temple on the golf course,” says an attendant as he goes about clearing the table. Happy that I have my walking shoes on, I decide to wait no longer. The British Old Golf Course, as this was called at one time, is now more eminently known as the Naldehra Golf Course, situated 23 km from Shimla. They say there is track that connected this golf course to Shimla, one that the British covered by a rickshaw ride. Story has it that lord Curzon, Viceroy of India, fell in love with the place late in the 19th century. He loved it so much that he thought up of laying a Golf Course on the slopes of the enormous glade. The course took shape on a natural topography, something which remains unchanged even to date.
There is considerable character to the place with wide views of the Himalayas, surrounded by thick woods and complete with an ancient temple by the greens, built in traditional style. A club house building beckons the golfers to become a part of the tradition that is alive and kicking at this unusual course, perched at an altitude of 2,200 m. This one is a par 68, 18 Hole Golf Course with 16 Greens and 18 Tees. It also holds the distinction of being affiliated with the most exclusive golf clubs — Chandigarh Golf Club, Chandigarh, The Rambagh Golf Club, Jaipur, Army Golf Club, Delhi, Noida Golf Club, Noida, and many more. The club was founded in 1920 and is maintained by the Himachal Tourism Department at present.
I have to seek special permission to be able to step on to the golf course. My eyes soak in the green all around. Giving me company is Amish Sud, owner of The Chalets. His father, Yatish Sud is a golfer himself (and of distinction, as I figure from the board displaying his name for breaking records), and also my passport to entry.
“This temple too has a story,” he tells me. “They say a rooster told villagers to make a temple for nag devta here and settle in the village down below. So, you have two nag devta temples — one here and another in the village close by.” I immediately know where my next half-an-hour is going to be spent — walking down to the village below.
The village is a typically quaint Himachali settlement. While slate rooftops denote older constructions, the newer houses are made of cement and pure concrete. Narrow slated pathways make for little tracks inside the village. The temple gates are closed. I’m told the villagers congregate here only for important meeting and sabhas. I can see children playing simple games like marbles and cricket in open spaces. It’s very peaceful here.
After spending about half-an-hour, I decide to head back to The Chalets. The sun’s about to come down and there is nice hot dinner awaiting for me back there. On our way back, Amish shares the eco-friendly way of living that has rubbed on even to his commercial set up. There are solar panels for heating water and a small plant for recycling used water. The greenhouse at another part of the property ensures everything going to their kitchen (including exotic herbs) is home-grown. “We are lucky to have that kind of weather here. One that is favourable for these plants,” Amish tells me.
The sign of spring is there so evident in the budding blooms and bright flower power. Soon the garden will resemble a colour burst. I’m a little early for that, I’m told. My eyes are pulled towards the glade green of weeping willow. Instinctively, I register a photo op there, just before I lose light. Behind me the sun’s getting ready to call it a day. Soon, the sky starts to change colour — it’s an orange one moment, then pink and finally purple before the black takes over. I yearn for the warmth of hearth waiting for me at my room. I’m tired and I know I will sleep well. Tomorrow’s another day...