Indians have always been obsessed with fair skin. From dadi ma ke nuskhe to using creams that claim to make one fairer within weeks, they have been doing it all. But these creams come with a warning — laced with chemicals and heavy metal, they do more harm than good. MANJARI SINGH speaks with dermatologists and doctors to bring you some not so lovely facts
There’s a college girl, shy, introvert and almost nonexistent. Her boyfriend doesn’t care for her and classmates make fun of her. Then comes her best friend who gives her a magic tube and within six weeks she is a rockstar, singing at a college festival, surrounded with friends with her boyfriend running after her with a bunch of roses. Now sample this. There’s a man without friends, girlfriends and a job. One fine day, a superstar comes into his life with a same magic tube, but meant for men. He has it all, right from a dream job to a girlfriend who looks like million dollar bucks.
This is the kind of effect fairness creams claim to have on your life but reality is nowhere near to what they claim it to be.
Dermatologists tell you that fairness creams fail to make the skin fair or lovely. In fact, they make it worse. “The fairness creams make you fairer for a while but when used over a prolonged period, the effect wares off. The long-term usage of these creams causes hyperpigmentaion which is difficult to cure. They have bleaching agents which are harmful for the skin. If used regularly, they peel the external layer of the skin,” Ritu Singla, dermatology consultant, Fortis Memorial Institute, Gurgaon, says.
She tells you that the most common ingredient used in most fairness creams is hydroquinone which causes redness and irritation. “In India, it’s not compulsory to mention all the ingredients on the pack and people don’t realise what they are buying,” Singla states.
Twentyfive-year-old Neha Dixit is a dark-skinned woman who started using a very popular brand of a fairness cream last year. “My skin became visibly fairer within a week but as I finished the tube, it turned scratchy and red. I rushed to the doctor and I was told I was yet another girl who had fallen for the tall claims made by the company,” she says. “The doctor told me that these creams contain hydroquinone which slows down the production of melanin and then quickly removes layers of skin revealing a fairer complexion underneath. This eventually damages the skin. It makes it thinner, making it look older than what it really is,” she says.
Ayush Khanna, a college student, had a similar experience. “Within two weeks, there was redness and itchiness not only on my skin but also in my eyes,” he tells you, adding that the problem persisted till he stopped using the cream.
The problem is compounded due to the wide variety of fairness creams available in the market, some chemical-based, others claiming to be herbal. If you thought using herbal creams was safe, think again. “It is not advisable to use herbal fairness creams. I only recommend paraffin-based moisturiser, a simple petroleum jelly product will also do,” Singla says, adding that Indians have an obsession for fair skin. No wonder then that one reads ‘wanted fair girl’ in every matrimonial ad in the country.
According to a study, the market for fairness creams has touched the Rs2,000-crore mark and the figures are on the rise. A survey says that eight out of 10 women in India believe that fair skin gives them an advantage. A WHO report says that metals like mercury, present in fairness creams, can have adverse effects like kidney damage, reduction in the skin’s resistance to bacterial and fungal infections, anxiety, depression and peripheral neuropathy. However, doctors say they have no idea about this finding.
like Dr Singla, Dr Mukesh Girdhar also believes herbal creams are not the answer to chemical ones. “People believe herbal products are harmless but that is not so. Take haldi, for example. Turmeric is very good for skin but that’s not the only ingredient used in fairness creams. It’s just one of the ingredients,” Dr Girdhar tells you.
But beauty experts like Blossom Kochhar have say natural products are any day better than chemical ones. She doesn’t advocate the use of creams with hydroquinone. “That chemical makes the skin lighter but stops working after some time. Creams that have Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) and Vitamin C lighten the skin tone but only by two shades, not the way they show in ads,” Kochhar says.
How much time does it take for these creams to throw up adverse effectsIJ “A minimum of six weeks,” Dr Girdhar says. That’s the time most creams claim to fairness.
“In the beginning, users may see redness and itchiness but they tend to ignore the symptoms,” Dr Girdhar says. The reaction is due to the presence of harmful metals. But it is not just darkened skin patches which is a side effect, they may also result in increased facial hair. “There are many users who come to me with this complaint. Then there are creams that claim to clear spots and marks within weeks. The only thing they do is result in allergic reactions. I treat several women in a week with allergic reactions to fairness creams,” Dr Girdhar explains.
He also tells you that there is no scientific proof that Vitamin E is good for the skin. It’s just an anti-oxidant. However, not all is bad news. While using fairness creams that have sunscreen may not be such a good idea, using sunscreen lotion with limited SPF is good. In fact, sunscreen must be applied before stepping out in the sun. Moreso, these days because of the ozone leak. But Dr Singla is quick to point out that there are two types of sunscreen products — those that are absorbing and those that reflect. “One should go for the ones that reflect. There are some ingredients like titanium dioxide and zinc that help fight UVA and UVB. Always buy a product with SPF 30 that protects from UVA and with three stars printed at the back of the bottle,” Dr Singla advises.
Seconds Kochhar. “Sunscreen with SPF more than 30 is not meant for Indian skin. Always apply gel-based sunscreen for oily skin and cream-based for dry skin,” Kochhar says.