It’s the land that is connected with Bharat’s earliest history, and has been inhabited for several thousand years starting with Paleolithic age (spanning from approximately 500,000 BCE to 10,000 BCE), with distinct periods including the Lower, Middle, and Upper Paleolithic. Each of these stages are characterised by specific tool-making technologies and human activities in locations such as the Luni Valley around Didwana, Chittorgarh and Kota regions, Budha Pushkar, and river basins of the Mahi, Kadamli and Wagoon. The strong connection of Rajasthan with the Bronze Age ‘Indus Valley Civilisation’ (3300 BCE to 1300 BCE) is seen through the important sites of Balathal, Ganeshwar and Kalibangan- the last is located in the Hanumangarh district of northern Rajasthan, and is famous for containing evidence of the earliest ploughed fields and being a significant urban centre on the Ghaggar-Hakra river system. The historical links of this region continue in the Neolithic and Mesolithic periods, and recently, the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) has unearthed evidence of civilization dating back to 4500 years in the Bahaj village of Deeg district in the state. The excavation has shed light on five different periods, including the post-Harappan period, the Mahabharata period, and the Mauryan, Kushan and Gupta periods. According to many legends it was at the Kamyaka forest, on the banks of the Sarasvati river, mentioned in the epic Mahabharata where the Pandavas spent their time during their exile. The ancient Vedic Sarasvati river originated in the Himalayas and flowed through Punjab, Haryana, western Rajasthan and Gujarat before draining into the Arabian sea. During the Vedic Period, the present Rajasthan region was known as ‘Brahmavarta’ (The land created by the gods and lying between the divine rivers Saraswati and Drishadwati).
The inhabitants of the state of Rajasthan- the ‘Rajputs’ have descended from the thirty-six royal Kshatriya clans mentioned in the sacred books, the Puranas, and in the two great Indian epics, the “Mahabharata” and the “Ramayana”, they are classified into three basic lineages (vanshas or vamshas) — Suryavanshi or Raghuvanshies (the clans of the Solar dynasty), descended through Manu, Ikshvaku, Harischandra, Raghu, Dasaratha and Rama. Chandravanshi or Somavanshies (the clans of the lunar dynasty), descended through Yayati, Deva Nausha, Puru, Yadu, Kuru, Pandu, Yudhisthira and Krishna. The Yaduvanshi lineage are a major sub-branch of the Chandravanshi lineage- Lord Krishna was born a Yaduvanshi. The Puruvanshi lineage are a major sub-branch of the Chandravanshi Rajputs- the Kauravs and Pandavas of the epic Mahabharata were Puruvanshis. Agnivanshi — the Agniculas (the clans of the fire dynasty), descended from Agnipala, Swatcha, Mallan, Gulunsur, Ajpala and Dola Rai.
In India, the origin of the ‘Rajput’ began to emerge, primarily in the northern and north-western parts, during significant social and political unrest that emerged after the fall of the Gupta Empire- around the beginning of the 6th century AD. Prominent rulers associated with Rajput dynasties emerged around the 6th to 8th centuries CE, with figures like Bappa Rawal (founder of the Guhilota dynasty in Mewar, c. 8th century) and Nagabhatta I (founder of the Gurjara Pratihara dynasty, c. 8th century) being important early examples. The term “Rajput” itself developed from “Rajputra” (son of a king), and refers to the descendants of various Kshatriya (warrior) clans from ancient India. This expanse, in the early and late medieval period witnessed the rise of major regional kingdoms like Mewar, Marwar, Amber, Bikaner and many more — the period was marked by rich cultural development that included intricate temple architecture and a distinctive artistic style. This historical time also witnessed continuous conflict and shifting alliances, culminating in the emergence of the Mughal Empire — the decline of which eventually led to the formation of the Rajputana Agency under British rule, in Ajmer in 1832. Colonel James Tod named the region “Raithan” or “Rajasthan” in 1829 in his book ‘Annals and Antiquities of Rajasthan’. Before this, the region was known as Rajputana, a term coined by George Thomas in 1800, because it was home to numerous kings or “Raja”. The official name “Rajasthan” was adopted upon the unification of the region’s princely states in 1949.
The culinary canvas of the state is as diverse and formidable, as its history and legacy- it is actually in food parlance, the ‘cherry on the cake’ for the region. Multiple regional cuisines make up for the Rajasthani food experience, these include ‘Marwari’— originating from the desert region of Marwar, this cuisine is known for being predominantly vegetarian, making extensive use of lentils, gram flour, and yogurt, with a notable fondness for sweets. ‘Mewari’— the cuisine is known for its flavourful, spicy meat preparations, a hallmark of the region’s hunting heritage. Due to its location in the hilly, forested Aravalli range, Mewari cuisine incorporates ingredients like corn, sweet potato, and yam. ‘Shekhawati’- the cuisine is predominantly vegetarian, reflecting local preferences and dietary habits in the north-eastern part of the state. The region’s semi-arid environment, which is almost desert-like, means that traditional dishes were developed to use ingredients that could last for a long time, without needing refrigeration, and without relying on fresh vegetables. It is neither possible nor fair to these cuisines — to squeeze them in one article. I will therefore focus on the ‘Mewari’ cuisine in this write-up, and delve into the rest, sometime in the future.
The Mewar region includes the districts of Udaipur, Rajsamand, Chittorgarh, Bhilwara, Dungarpur, and Banswara, along with the historical states of Pratapgarh and Shahpura. Mewar is noted for its long and tenacious resistance against foreign invasions, particularly from Islamic invaders. The region is associated with the tradition of Jauhar, the ritual self-immolation by women during times of defeat to protect their honour. As a historically Hindu kingdom, Mewar also patronised and fostered other religious traditions, including Jainism and Buddhism.
Mewari cuisine has food that originated and was disseminated from the royal kitchens, as well as the food that is in complete harmony with the prevailing climatic conditions, and focusses on the availability and practicality of ingredients- that make up for the most delicious dishes. The royal kitchens had ‘Jeemanwalas’ or Jeeb Bhaane Wala- this title translates to “one who cooks to your palate” or “one who prepares the meal”. While individual names are not commonly recorded, the title highlights their specialized role in creating meals tailored to the royal family’s tastes and preferences. Their skills shaped the distinctive Mewari cuisine, renowned for its unique use of spices like cumin, coriander, turmeric, red chilli powder, mustard seeds, fenugreek, black pepper, cinnamon, cloves and cardamom. The main grains in Mewari cuisine are wheat and bajra (pearl millet), which form the staple diet, particularly for making breads and dishes like the regional favourite ‘Dal Baati Churma’. Gram (chickpea flour) is also a significant ingredient, used to make the dumplings for ‘Gatte ki Sabzi’ and as a batter for snacks like Mirchi Bada. The most used pulses in the cuisine include Chana Dal (Bengal Gram), Moong Dal (Green Gram), Urad Dal (Black Gram), and Kidney Beans (Rajma). These pulses are vital components of many signature dishes which we shall mention in the paragraphs to follow. The most used meats in Mewari cuisine are goat and lamb meat- a key ingredient in the iconic dishes like the ‘Laal Maas’. While fish and chicken are also consumed, the region’s desert environment historically led to a more limited availability of diverse meats compared to other cuisines. It’s the balance between vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes that is a shining characteristic of Mewar. With that said, let’s start with an ode to the regions legendary affinity to hunting, and its direct reflection through lip smacking dishes.
‘Laal Maas’ — this dish dates back to the 10th century, when it was a part of the food prepared for Rajput kings and their retinues during their extensive hunting and warfare expeditions. It’s considered a refined version of “Jungli Maas”, a dish made from the fresh catch of hunted animals like deer and wild boar. The original recipe was created with limited ingredients available in the desert camps, such as red chillies, ghee, garlic, and onion, along with the hunted meat. Legend has it, that the prominent heat of the dish was introduced to mask the gamey odour of the wild meat, leading to the iconic name “Laal Maas,” or “Red Meat”. The central ingredients in the dish are yoghurt, mutton along with whole spices like cinnamon, cloves, black and green cardamom, and bay leaf, which are often tempered in ghee or oil before other ingredients are added. A final touch includes garam masala powder, and fresh coriander leaves for garnish. It’s the Kashimiri red chillies, or the fiery ‘Mathania chillies’, which are grown in the Mathania village near Jodhpur, that give the Laal Maas its characteristic deep red colour, and intense spice.
‘Safed Maas’ — both laal and safed maas have a very close bond with Mewar because of the region’s hunting heritage. This dish features lamb or mutton in a creamy, nutty white gravy, primarily consisting of yoghurt, ghee, and a paste of nuts and seeds like almonds, cashews, and white poppy seeds. Essential aromatics include ginger-garlic paste, whole spices like green cardamom, cloves, and cinnamon, and to maintain the white colour, white peppercorns are used. Additional ingredients to achieve the distinct white gravy include cream, coconut, and sometimes milk. Another timeless classic is the ‘Maas Ka Soola’- made with meat (mutton), onion, ginger-garlic paste, green chillies, cinnamon, cloves, black pepper, salt, and raw papaya. The dish is often red in colour, and deeply infused with the rich flavour of ghee. It is indeed a flavour bomb and can be called a “charred lamb kebab on a skewer”. A droolworthy fish preparation from Mewar is ‘Maachli Jaisamandi’- it is a traditional fish curry, specifically from Udaipur, which is a part of the Mewar region. The dish is prepared using a green paste made from mint, coriander, garlic, and ginger, followed by frying and cooking in a creamy, spiced gravy- a characteristic of Rajasthani cuisine.
A vegetarian delight from Mewar that is the much loved, is the soulful ‘Gatte Ki Sabzi’ — it features gram flour (besan) dumplings cooked in a tangy yoghurt-based gravy. The dumplings are first boiled and then simmered in the spicy sauce. This Mewari household speciality is hearty and flavourful, and when paired with ‘Makke ki roti’ (corn flour flatbread), one is able to soak in the rich aromas and distinct flavours of traditional Mewari recipes. A fantastic vegetarian dish, that is a testimony to the regional focus of food is ‘Sangri Ki Sabzi’ or ‘Ker Sangri’- it is a rustic preparation made from a mix of five main ingredients: Ker (dried berries), Sangri (dry beans), Gunda (gumberry or wild berry), Kumatiya (acacia seeds), and Amchoor (dried mango powder). Also called ‘Panchkuta Sabji’, it is cooked with a blend of spices and generous amounts of ghee. This traditional delicacy is one of the famous foods of Rajasthan, and is often carried during travels, as it can keep well for days without refrigeration. Let me take the readers to one of the earliest dishes of Mewar, the ‘Daal Baati Churma’ — it originated in Mewar during the era of Bappa Rawal (king of the Guhila dynasty in the 8th century CE). It was initially a wartime meal for soldiers who would bake dough balls (baati) by burying them in hot sand. The combination of baati with Panchmel Dal (made with five lentils- moong dal, masoor dal, urad dal, chana dal, and toor dal (or pigeon peas) was popularised by Gupta traders, and the sweet churma, was later, an accidental innovation within the Guhilot clan, possibly from a cook adding sugarcane juice to baati- which then evolved into a popular sweet dessert for the dish.
While detailing Mewari food, the most flavoursome and traditional ‘Bajre Ki Raab’ comes to the fore — it is a very popular drink or soup of Mewar. It can be made as a warm soup in winters (thin soup or also in porridge like consistency), and as a refreshing drink in the summers. It’s made from millet flour and buttermilk (a mixture of curd and water), the millet flour is cooked in buttermilk, with cumin, ginger, garlic, salt, and sometimes turmeric added for flavour — resulting in a thick, porridge-like, or soup — like consistency. It is also known for its nutrition and health benefits — particularly for the digestive system.
If there is one dish that brings the sinews of the Mewari cuisine all together, it is the ‘Udaipuri Thali’ — in this, one is not just spoiled with exquisite taste, but also with variety. It includes ‘Rose Sharbat’, a rose-flavoured drink, which acts as a palate cleanser, followed by ‘Buttermilk’, that offers immense benefits for digestion, post these, four chutneys that include garlic (lasun), amchur (dry mango powder), coriander (dhaniya) and saunth (dry ginger powder) are included- these activate the various taste buds in the mouth. Two bite-sized sweet dishes are added, elevating the experience- these include, ‘Churma Ladoo’ made with whole wheat flour, Jaggery, Ghee, and Cardamom powder, and ‘Besan Ki Chakki’ — made from coarse gram flour, ghee and sugar, often added with cardamom and nuts. These are followed with ‘Kadi’- made with gram flour and yoghurt, ‘Gatte ki Sabzi’, ‘Chana’ and Urad’ dals, along with ‘Ker Sangri’ and ‘Daal Baati Churma’. All these are served with the very special ‘Jhakolma Puri’ — prepared from very soft dough of coarse wheat flour, seasoned with salt and deep-fried in desi Ghee (clarified butter)- it is a delectable salty Pudi known for its large circumference.
The region also delivers strongly in the ‘sweets section’ through dishes like ‘Mawa Kachauri’- a flaky, deep-fried pastry filled with a rich mixture of mawa (milk solids), dry fruits, and sugar, making it an iconic and popular dessert. The dish showcases the refined culinary skills in confectionery, that are characteristic of Mewar’s food traditions, and is often made for festive occasions and to welcome guests, embodying the region’s hospitality. ‘Chholeya’ or ‘Chholiya’ Halwa- is another popular dish of Mewar region in which raw green gram or chickpeas are ground and cooked with ghee and sugar to make for a melt-in-the-mouth halwa. I will sum up the sweet offerings from the region with ‘Jhajharia’- it is like a corn pudding, a delicacy made of makki, milk, ghee and sugar garnished with dry fruits. In this, grated or coarsely ground fresh makki (maize or corn) is slowly roasted in ghee for few hours until it loses most of its moisture, and assumes a dry granular form. It is often enjoyed in the monsoon season, and is without doubt a hardy dish from the Mewari stable.
The absolute addressal of all parameters of a cuisine — be it nourishment, taste and variety, has been undertaken most convincingly for centuries by the Mewari food of Rajasthan. It’s the greater dissemination of information related to this, that is the need of the hour. It is unfortunate, that today, people don’t have time, and because of this they miss out on the real gastronomic enjoyment that one can gain, by engaging with various regional foods. Our children and youth have to understand, that food in India is not just a ritual, but also an experience and that they need to savour it. Once they understand all that goes into the making of such dishes, along with their immense health benefits, I’m confident, that they will introduce many of the cuisine’s offerings in their food preferences. This is critical if the legacy of our regional food, in this case, Mewari cuisine, which has withstood the test of time — is not just retained, but strengthened in the decades to come!
(The writer is Secretary, Cuisine India Society)