Palakkad is not only about Ayurveda. The bright green of the paddy beckons visitors to explore its rich history, which now lies in a shambles at Palakkad Fort built in 1766, writes Navneet Mendiratta
You could smell the rain and green at the same time, even with your eyes closed. It’s a fragrance so rich that it overpowers your senses and directs your body to slow down its pace and enjoy the experience. Monsoon in Kerala is different from any other that the country enjoys. The rainwashed tiled rooftops look beautiful against the lush green setup and dark clouds in the backdrop.
I tried to count the shades of green as I drove past the misty Nilgiris that make for the majestic mountain range between Kerala and Tamil Nadu. My destination — Olassery in the Palakkad district — was about 65 km (or roughly an hour’s drive) from Coimbatore, the nearest airport. Dark clouds loomed overhead, threatening to let burst every now and then. Some kept their promise while others drifted away in a no show.
I watched people going about their chores in their farms along the highway. Women in saris with fresh flowers adorning their hair rode pillion behind men with their lungis neatly tucked in. life starts early in this part of the country.
Even as I scanned the scenic surrounds around, I was struck by the fact that I did not get to cross any big town on my way to Palakkad. A small town surrounded by rich flora and fauna, Palakkad draws its name from a sweet scented flowering tree called Pala (Alstonia Scholaris) and Kadu meaning forest in the local language. This is also the region which is said to be the birthplace of Ayurveda, with many a rare herbs and trees growing in the vicinity.
Talking about Ayurveda, this ancient form of medical science may be catching the world’s fancy now as a corrective measure for biorhythm imbalances; for people down south, it’s a way of life. It is not surprising to see many foreigners take a break from their busy schedules to join a holistic healing programme and find a cure to their long impending lifestyle induced ailments. Panchakarma is one sought after treatment at several authorised and registered Ayurvedshalas that exist in the region.
My trip was meant to be short, but I looked forward to regaining my balance. True, it’s no great secret, but we all seem to have lost the right way in trying to match up to the fast and stressful pace city life has set for us.
Situated in Palakkad is Kairali, an Ayurvedic Healing Village started by Gita Ramesh and KV Ramesh, where you are made to listen to your biorhythm and forget the concept of time, just the way our ancestors did. Set amid 50 acres of lush greenery with 30 exclusive villas built in keeping with Vastu Shastra, incorporating the balance of five elements, the village is a distinctive blend of natural surrounds made up of green foliage, namely herbs and trees with curative and restorative powers and resort comforts like a swimming pool, tennis courts, library, cyber centre, recreation facilities for children, conference halls and an amphitheater for cultural programmes. Only the inhabitants are made to follow a strict routine that is meant to detox their bodies and souls; the kitchens serve only vegetarian food and alcohol is strictly prohibited.
They say there is time for everything. Even nature follows a certain discipline. You veer off the track and you are punished by the way of adverse health effects. A typical day at the village starts at 6 am with a glass of lukewarm honey and lemon concoction. This is followed by an hour-long session of yoga including surya namaskar and breathing exercises under the guidance of yogacharyas from the Sivananda School, Rishikesh, and Kerala.
This was really my wake up call. The one that my body had responded to when each part became aware of its existence. This is also when I realised how unfit I was, having lost out on any exercise that I should have done in each day of my waking up hours. “Don’t worry you’d get better with time,” I was told. Only I must remain committed and make the practice a habit.
Soon I was swept by hunger pangs. Signs of a good system, I was told. I checked my watch. It was only 8:15 am. An hour when most of my ilk are snuggly tucked in their beds. “You must have your breakfast before 8:30 am under all conditions,” advised Dr Sarvan, the younger of the two resident Ayurveda doctors at the resort.
All treatments are prescribed and carefully supervised by the doctors. These are mainly oil massages as different from your regular spa and aimed to cure you of your ‘ailment’, even if that happens to be an unhealthy lifestyle.
My breakfast was a simple and healthy spread of fresh cut seasonal fruits, sprouts and a spinach dosa, served with freshly prepared chutneys. As I reached out for my glass of water, I noted that it was warm and of unusual pink colour. “You are only served special water, boiled with local herbs to strengthen your immunity,” shared Alavoor Umesh, the general manager of the resort. “While the pink water is said to be good for diabetics, the yellow one is prescribed to those who are struggling to combat water retention. The water is most beneficial when consumed warm,” he elaborated. Practically without any distinct flavour, I was quick to take to both the versions.
Ayurveda is serious business in Kerala and patients come from far and wide seeking a cure for their ailments. The duration of their stay varies from the time prescribed for the completion of a treatment to therapy-oriented detox packages.
The science has some basic principles that deal with the natural way of living a healthy life. Every human being is said to be a unique combination of the five elements — earth, water, fire, air and space, making up the three vital forces of life. These are best described as Vata representing ether and air, Pita combining fire and water, and Kapha meaning water and earth. The perfect balance of these vital forces results in true health that comes from the co-ordination of mind, body and soul.
My body type decoded, I was prescribed different treatments spread over two days. One of the treatments took care of my aching muscles and was meant to move some stubborn fat around the belly. Called Kadikizhi, the treatment involved a hard massage using linen balls stuffed with powdered pulses, herbs and seeds. The poultice was warmed in medicated oil and used to massage the entire body, neck, shoulders, and back. “The treatment eases the joints and soothes aches and pains all over your body. If repeated over a period of time and combined with strict dietary and routine regulation, it also aides weight-loss,” Dr Sarvan told me.
The other treatments that are a hit with people going in for rejuventation and detox are abhyangam and sirodhara. To round it off was a nice steam bath in specially made chambers that required you to be seated inside a cabinet-like structure with head sticking out like you were about to be beheaded. To be honest, it was one of the best I had in many years. This was followed by a cold shower to wash off excess oil and I was done.
For those who come here seeking pampering get to try out the Royal spa. This also happened to be my prescribed treatment for day two when I was treated like a queen and slathered with pastes made from fresh, local ingredients from the kitchen, and a head spa all aimed at relaxation.
If the body must be trained to fall in line with discipline and correct diet, the mind must be stimulated with spiritual fodder in the form of meditation. As the evening set in, I was guided to the meditation centre. Fragrance of sandal and agarbattis filled the room that was dimly lit and quiet. Yogacharya Guruprasad initiated the students to a lesson in inner peace. With soothing music for backdrop in a deep voice he guided all to look with and counter the fear and other challenges and let the positive energy flow.
Other than holding meditation classes at the resort, Yogacharya, a trained therapist from Sivananda Ashram, Rishikesh, works with special children and helps them find their release. “I may not be able to prove it, but from my experience, I can tell that yoga and meditation help put these special children of God at ease with their self and even get a healthy response towards growth and understanding,” he shared.
Palakkad is not only about Ayurveda or the resort. The bright green of the paddy beckons a visitor to explore its rich history, which now lies in a shambles at Palakkad Fort that dates back to 1766, when it was built by Hyder Ali of Mysore. It was later captured by the British. Also known as Tipu Sultan’s fort, it today houses a functioning jail and a Hanuman temple.
Or, you could visit Malapuzha Dam which is situated about eight km from Palakkad town. The dam, completed in 1955, is the largest reservoir in Kerala. It is also known for its scenic beauty and sprawling gardens and makes for a perfect spot for birdwatching.
Then there is the historic Jainimedu Jain temple situated on the western border of Palakkad town and not far from the railway station or Nenmara, the foothill town some 24 km from palakkad town.
As I drove back to the airport from Palakkad, I wished I could have prolonged my trip a little longer. It’s not a trip to be made in a hurry. If at all the rush only defeats the purpose.