Sunday Edition

Eat & bloom

Shalini Saksena

The first recorded use of flowers in cuisine finds was in 140 BC. As time passed, their use increased. With over 25 flowers being used in serving culinary delights today, chefs are experimenting with flowers once again.

The use of flowers was prevalent in Roman, Chinese, Italian and even Hispanic cultures. Chinese made use of daylily buds, the Romans used mallow, rose and violets. Italian and Hispanic used stuffed squash blossoms and Indians till date use rose petals in many recipes. A green liqueur made in France during the 17th century uses carnation petals.

“Using flowers for cooking in India is a concept that has yet to catch on. This is because we use them for religious purposes. To use the same flower and eat it doesn’t seem to sit with us comfortably. But the thought of creamy hibiscus veloute, basil, coriander, flower fondue and roasted carnation vegetable tart, braised sweet tomato with sunflower seed pesto excites the Indian pallete,” executive chef Vimal Vikraman with The Grand Mercure Hotel, Bengaluru says.

Therefore, it is not surprising that chefs use it to create exotic drinks, salads and main dishes. “While south India and West Bengal uses banana flowers and pumpkin flowers to make bhajiyas, the north has been using rose petals to make gulokand. However using marigold, hibiscus, carnations or even violet is something new.

“For example hibiscus or marigold with spinach makes for a great combination. Blanch the spinach and set aside. Saute onions and garlic separately. Add the spinach and cook for five to 10 minutes. When you are about to serve add the hibiscus or marigold flowers. Not only does it add flavour to the dish, the red, yellow and green have a great visual appeal,” chef Vimal tells you.

He warns that one should not buy flowers for cooking purpose from  flower vendors. One must grow their own flowers for cooking. “The ones that you get in the market have a lot of pesticides. These are likely to do more harm,” he says, adding that though he has yet to introduce a full-fledged menu that have flowers, he is willing to serve his customers a four-course meal if given a day’s heads-up.