Sunday Edition

A touch of authenticity

Shalini Saksena

SHAlINI SAKSENA catches up with internationally acclaimed Chef Salem to talk about the difference between India and Middle-Eastern cuisine among other things

With Indians becoming more and more adventurous when it comes to cuisines, chefs from all over the world are coming here to showcase their culture through food. One such chef who recently visited the Capital was Salem — Executive Chef of Sodexo, Qatar — an expert in Middle-East cuisine.

Those thinking that Indian and Middle-Eastern food is somewhat similar are in for a surprise. The chef tells you that Indian food is more spicy and saucier than Middle-Eastern cuisine. “Arabic cuisine uses very different vegetables and fruits. Arabic cuisine is comparable to the north Indian palate, but not southern, since it uses less meat, dairy and wheat or wheat products. Some Arabic dishes have been adapted and transformed in India, as things like the pulao, kofte, kebab and the sambusak (samosa) have become household names, with an Indian touch,” explains Chef Salem who has over 40 years of experience in the culinary industry.

According to him, Middle Eastern cuisine is simple and light. Cooks do not use too many ingredients and generally prefer food prepared over a grill or with stuffing. Some examples are kebabs, shwarama, salads, vegetable stew and baba ganoush (roasted eggplant dip). While some dishes are unique to different countries in the Middle East, there is not much difference in the cooking style.

A prime example of authentic Middle-Eastern cuisine is lebanese Kibbeh. It is a dish made of bulgur, minced onions, and finely ground lean beef, lamb, goat, or camel meat with Middle-Eastern spices.

His inspiration to be a chef came from his father, who was also a chef. “I always aspired to be like him one day. His kitchen became a part of my foundational training and developed my passion for food. I started off by training at a hospitality school, after which I trained in small restaurants and hotels in my country, slowly making my way up,” Chef Salem says and tells you that Middle Eastern food has evolved and is easily accepted by many nationalities since the cooking style is easy, involves less and simple ingredients and is not very spicy,

But that doesn’t mean that people don’t have myths about Asian cuisine. “Some of the most common myths people have about Asian food (mainly Indian and Chinese cuisine) is that it is very spicy and unhealthy. While several spices are used in Indian cooking, the level of chilies added is a matter of preference. Similarly, the amount of oil used is a matter of choice; in fact, there are a host of recipes that don’t require oil at all,” Chef Salem shares who opines that the culture of a place does affect cuisine.

“There are many cultures across the globe. They affect the cuisines differently but significantly. For example, in India, people prefer spicy food, however, in Europe, they can’t eat authentic Indian as it will be too spicy for them. There are many diverse cultures with different cuisines and flavour palates. Food and drink are as much representations of culture as are the arts, attire and music. Most of us experience this for the first time when we travel. What people abroad eat can be entirely different from the way we eat at our native place. Often our culinary preferences affect the vacation destinations we choose. Food and culture are two different worlds that go very well together. The food we eat represents our culture and is a critical component of it,” he says.

His trip to India and tie up with Sodexo is about a global initiative that leverages their operations in 82 countries and allows them to celebrate different foods and cultures. “It gives chefs the opportunity to share recipes from their home country and embrace their culture through new and innovative avenues. During my stint with Sodexo, I have developed my knowledge of Middle Eastern, Arabic and French cuisine while working in the Gulf countries.