India

left in oblivion, 2 leh monasteries set to get ASI tag

Archana Jyoti

little known Skurbuchan Khar complex, a three-storied ancient castle of the 11th Century AD overlooking the Indus River and Wanla Gonpa complex, an ancient monastery belonging to the 14th Century AD in leh, ladakh are all set to get a tag of national importance.

Though in a dilapidated condition, the structures have been selected for their unique architectural style and beautiful mural paintings symbolising various aspects of the Buddhist ways, said sources in the Archeological Survey of India (ASI). For its part, the ASI has moved a proposal to the Union Culture Ministry to bring the two monasteries under its wings.

Situated on the left bank of the Wanla stream, the Wanla Gonpa complex is 9 km away from lamayuru on the right side of Srinagar-leh Highway and 122 km from leh. It is constructed on the top of a hill overlooking the Wanla village. Gonpa complex is similar to Sum Tsek Gonpa at Alchi on the basis of architectural style and belong to 11th-12th Century AD.

The whole complex is constructed in random rubble masonry with mud mortar and plastered with mud. The Gonpa has standing stucco images of Avalokiteshvaras (statue of lord Buddha), Shakyamuni Buddha, Kaserpani Avalokiteshvara. Stucco which is applied wet and hardens to a very dense solid is used as decorative coating for walls and ceilings and as a sculptural and artistic material in architecture.

The Gonpa wall showcases mural paintings of various forms and postures of the lord Buddha and Bodhisttvas with its sanctum containing a massive two-storied stucco image of 16-feet-long Avalokiteshvara standing on lotus pedestal facing east. However, the structure is in a bad shape. Bodhi inscription on the wall has been damaged due to water percolations and smoke burning of lamps. Similarly, many mural paintings on the walls have been washed away in rains. The walls have developed cracks while the foundation of the complex has bulged and is exposed badly because of soil erosion calling for immediate protection and conservation.

The ancient castle in Skurbuchan village which is constructed with sun-dried mud bricks and mortar is presently being looked after by Kushok Tokden, head lama of the Buddhist Society of Drigungbkargudpa Sect. It’s a  massive stucco image of Avalokiteshvara standing on lotus pedestal, facing south with 11 heads in three direction and painted in golden colour.

Small stucco images of lord Buddha in various postures make the monastery stand apart while the walls decorated with mural paintings showcases an 11-headed Avalokiteshvara having 1,000 hands. The monastery has been picked for conservation because of its dilapidated condition with the surrounding structure on the verge of collapsing.