The alleged incidents of racial abuse and attack on foreign nationals in the national Capital have failed to leave a lasting impact on the foreigners. Delhi continues to be a favourite for them who find the city safe for vacationing, business and other purposes, including education. Scores of people from countries like Russia, Italy, Korea and Australia can be traced roaming around freely in the city. What is more important, they have been stationed in hotels in Paharganj in Central Delhi where a Danish woman was raped recently. Similarly, a large number of foreign nationals, including those from the African countries have been staying in various South Delhi areas like lajpat Nagar, Malviya Nagar and Bhogal, among others. The controversial midnight raid by former law Minister Somnath Bharti did not deter them from staying in the city and carrying out their studies and other businesses. Further, their presence in areas like West and East Delhi has only increased over the last few years. The Pioneer reporters Aditi Gupta and Sakshi Chand took a round of the city to take stock of the situation prevailing in the Capital.
It’s not just people from other States, but people from outside the country too have been migrating to the national Capital, which has become a hub of foreigners. With East, North, South and South-East district areas of Delhi housing the maximum number of foreign tourists, they seem to have blended in well, even sans the culture.
While a large number of Afghanis, Nigerians, Ugandans, and Africans are present in various pockets of the city, hordes of others from Belarus, Ukraine, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan and a few Americans have also flocked in over the years. It may be a moment of pride for the city as most of them prefer the booming Capital over their own country when it comes to education or medical care — the primary reasons cited by them for coming to Delhi.
However, there is a flipside to this. Amidst the whole lot of foreign nationals, there is a sizeable chunk which never returns to its own country making it tough for Delhi Police to perform its duties.
The situation is quite tense in South Delhi area as the residents often do not approve of the Nigerians residing there. On the other hand, the migrants claim they are being stereotyped. “People here feel if one African has committed a wrong, we all must be a part of it. I have come here for my kidney treatment since it is very expensive in my country. We get roughhoused there because of our colour and here we are pariahs,” said Cliff, a Nigerian national.
Surprisingly, in East Delhi which houses a major population of Nepalese and some Ugandan nationals, faces no trouble with these foreigners. Even the police officials of the area have not received a single complaint from the residents. “There are a few Ugandan nationals who stay in the area. The only problem is that they try and propagate their culture here. The way they carry themselves is also not as per Indian culture and ethos,” said Satvir Sharma, RWA member for Ward No. 223, Shakarpur.
The same is the case in West Delhi’s Uttam Nagar area where a major chunk of Congo nationals and Kenyans reside. The foreign nationals residing here are mostly on student visa and do not interact much. “Earlier they used to interact but after the recent spate of incidents they don’t talk at all. They are apprehensive and feel they will be frisked. They are scared of us now,” said a resident of Uttam Nagar.
A large number of Afghanis reside in South-East Delhi’s lajpat Nagar, Bhogal and Nizamuddin basti area. Most of them have come for serious medical treatment like heart ailments, paralysis and sarcoma.
“I have been coming to the Capital for the last 10 years due to my wife’s heart condition. Back home we don’t have proper medical wherewithal like laboratories. I love Delhi and want my children to study here,” said Abdul Malek from Kabul. India is lucrative for business and many Afghani nationals have started a dry fruits business here. Some do not even go back to their country, he informed.
Paharganj: Delhi’s backpacker district (Aditi Gupta)
From dreadlocks, Bob Marley merchandise and precious gems to cheap liquor, cheaper hotels, pulp fiction and marijuana, Paharganj stands with open arms, waiting to take its ‘toll’ on tourists from across the globe. Home to psychedelic hippies, this place is also known as the backpacker district. It is considered a bad trip by some Delhiites due to its reputation of drugs and sleaze, but for many travellers, Paharganj is Delhi.
With its proximity to the New Delhi Railway Station and the centrally located Connaught Place, this area accommodates foreigners and takes care of everything they require within a small periphery. located in the heart of the Capital, this area is also called the Main Bazar and has been orchestrated to serve the enormous inflow of Americans, Italians, Europeans and Russians looking
for a longer and budget accommodation. The neighbourhood first became popular with foreign travellers, many of them beatniks, in the 1970s. Being close to the station made it an obvious place for cheap guesthouses.
“I love this place and keep coming back here. I base myself here and travel to different parts of the country. As a researcher, my stay here is longer so I prefer Paharganj as it offers good accommodation, eating and shopping options at a cheaper price,” said Adriano, an Italian researcher at a travel agent’s office, while getting his air ticket booked for Siliguri. Per night tariff at the hotels in this area ranges between Rs 400 and Rs 2,000. While some come for a holiday, many throng Paharganj for business. For 56-year-old Pierre from France, this place is an excellent flea market bargain and he prefers taking stock from here to his country for business. “I am into readymade garment business. I buy in bulk from here and sell it in my country. They love it there,” said Pierre, who has been engaged in business with wholesalers since 1980.
Owned by people from across the country, the chintzy shops here offer the latest fashion accessories to fulfil the demands of foreigners at negotiable prices. The old and famous market which was once a hotspot for street food lovers and traditional textiles, has now urbanised with restaurants offering international cuisine, shops offering imported clothes, handicraft and gems.
“Everything has changed here. It’s a hub of firangs, so a market for their needs has been introduced. Most of the tourists are found to flock shops which offer handicrafts and hippy chic. New greasy spoons like Subway, German Bakery and others were opened recently for the foreign tourists. But they also enjoy street food for which Paharganj is famous,” said NR Aggarwal, a lassi shopowner serving the locality for over five decades.
If liquor grew on trees, this place is the forest. Famous for quality liquor at cut-price, the pubs here are a regular among not just the foreigners, but the local barflies as well. “Kids of 12-13 years of age can be seen drinking and walking the streets after having doped, accompanied by foreign tourists who smoke pot on a regular basis,” said a tea stall owner on the condition of anonymity.