The Indira Gandhi Rashtriya Manav Sangrahalaya under its popular summer series of ‘Do and learn’ educational programmes commenced training workshops of Bhopal’s Zardozi and Warli Painting of Maharashtra on Monday.
In the beginning, the Zardozi instructors commenced with describing the basic material required for Zardozi embroidery. Zardozi or Zar-douzi is an elaborate style of hand embroidery popular in Iran, India and Pakistan. Zardozi embroidery is beautiful metal embroidery, which once used to embellish the attire of the Kings and the royals in India.
It was also used to adorn walls of the royal tents, scabbards, wall hangings and the paraphernalia of regal elephants and horses. Zardozi embroidery work involves making elaborate designs, using gold and silver threads.
Further adding to the magnificence of the work are the studded pearls and precious stones. Initially, the embroidery was done with pure silver wires and real gold leaves.
However, today, craftsmen make use of a combination of copper wire, with a golden or silver polish, and a silk thread. Zardosi attained its summit in the 17th century, under the patronage of Mughal Emperor Akbar.
Under the rule of Aurangzeb, the royal patronage stopped and this led to the decline of the craft. Zardozi embroidery has been in existence in India from the time of the Rig Veda.
It prospered during the Mugal Emperor, Akbar, but later a loss of royal patronage and industrialization led to its decline.
Today, it is popular in the Indian cities of lucknow, Farrukhabad, Chennai and Bhopal.
From the mid -19th century to the reign of Bhopal’s last Nawab, Hamidullah Khan this embroidery was on the decline. With time Zardozi has also found its way into accessories like bangles, headpieces, even shoes.