Jewel in the crown

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Jewel in the crown

Tuesday, 28 May 2019 | Uma Nair

Jewel in the crown

Christies puts up an unprecedented group show of jewels, gemstones and decorative objects, consisting of over 400 pieces spanning 500 years. By Uma Nair

A jade-hilted dagger once owned by Shah Jahan, creator of the Taj Mahal, a jade cup with an ibex head so realistically carved that the Chinese Emperor Qianlong composed a poem in its honour and a diamond and enamel covered gold huqqa pipe, revealing Indian opulence at its best.... luxury could never be so lovingly curated. Then there are bejewelled objects, including a gem-set mace set on finial with large Mughal-cut diamonds and an emerald, ruby and diamond set gold  pen case and inkwell, a symbol of power at court. Smitten by the description?

You can see (and even buy) all of these artifacts as they are a part of the Maharajas & Mughal Magnificence which will be unveiled in a historic sale at Christies New York on June 19. This landmark auction is poised to be the most valuable and precious collection of jewellery and Mughal objects to ever come to auction.

Maharajas and Mughals

Maharajas and Mughal Magnificence puts together an unprecedented group of jewels, gemstones and decorative objects. Consisting of almost 400 lots spanning over 500 years, this auction showcases the illustrious culture of Indian jewelled arts from the Mughal period exploring the creative dialogue between India and the West, to the present day.

The collection begins in Mughal India, under the most important dynasty that ruled the country, famous for its emeralds, diamonds, sapphires, rubies, weapons and objects that are bejeweled beyond belief. It traces the history of jewelry from early Mughal India through the Maharajas and their collaboration with the world’s most renowned jewellery houses to create some of the most exceptional pieces of jewelry ever made. The sale is presented in partnership between Christie’s market-leading jewellery department, led by Rahul Kadakia and world art department, led by William Robinson, along with the independent art advisory firm The Fine Art Group.

Mughal India

The collection showcases the sophistication of artistic production from the royal courts of India from the 17th century onwards. These treasures comprise the most delicate jades, vivid enamels, opulent jewels, gemstones and magnificent royal portraits. 

From the regional courts within the Mughal empire, the collection encompasses sensational sarpechs (turban ornaments), necklaces like the diamond rivière originally from the collection of the Nizam of Hyderabad comprising almost 200 carats of Golconda diamonds and the Nizam of Hyderabad’s diamond-encrusted state sword, which illustrates the rich history of bejewelled-ornamentation in India. Also featured are carved Mughal emeralds, ranging in weight from approximately 10 carats to over 200 carats, the famed Arcot II diamond, presented to Queen Charlotte, wife of King George III by Muhammad Ali Wallajah Nawab of Arcot, and the magnificent Mirror of Paradise which is an internally flawless Golconda diamond of 52.58 carats.

Maharajas

The Patiala Ruby Choker created by Cartier in 1931 is a superb example of the fusion between India and the West. Commissioned by Maharaja Bhupinder Singh of Patiala, one of Cartier’s most important Indian clients of the 1920s and 1930s, he often travelled to Paris with trunks of diamonds and gemstones from his treasury for Cartier’s workshops. Another significant example by Cartier is the ‘Carved Emerald Brooch’, which uses an impressive 19th century hexagonal carved emerald of 380.98 carats. The two-sided carving depicts Lord Rama, his wife Sita, Hanuman, and a poppy blossom on the reverse.

Among more urban tastes, the Enamel and Diamond Peacock Aigrette, by Mellerio dits Meller, was purchased by the Maharaja Jagatjit Singh of Kapurthala in 1905 during one of his trips to Paris. The Maharaja was captivated by the peacock motif of the aigrette, a bird that is still greatly revered in India today. In later years, the aigrette would be worn by Anita Delgado, his fifth wife, whom he met while wearing the jewel on his own turban.

Landmark collection

Guillaume Cerutti, Chief Executive Officer of Christie’s, remarks, “This landmark collection traces the history of Mughal jewels and objects to the present day representing the most significant collection of its type ever to come to auction. The sale of this notable collection will therefore present a truly significant cultural moment and offers a milestone opportunity for collectors. Having shared many of these impressive pieces over recent years through a series of publications and travelling exhibitions, we are honoured that The Al Thani Collection has entrusted us to find new homes for these exquisite objects. From next year, we can look forward to exploring other areas of this diverse and encyclopedic collection at the new museum space opening in Paris.”

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