Rice beer associated with their culture, livelihood
In the tribal areas of Jajpur district, traditional brew ‘Handia’ is very much in demand during this summer. The drink is immensely popular among the tribals in the region as it is commonly used during marriages, birth anniversaries and festivals. The tribals have inherited the process of preparing the drink from their forefathers as the craft passes on from one generation to the other.
The tribal people take Handia as an important drink at breakfast, lunch and dinner. One can manage for 10 to 15 days without any other food if there is Handia. During the summer season, Handia saves the body from sunstroke. By drinking it, the tribals become more energetic during work. Similarly, in the time of cold, it warms up the body. It also compensates for deficiency of food for 10 to 15 days. So, the drink is regarded as a supplementary food for tribals.
National Highways no- 5 and (A) in Jajpur district are now dotted with a huge numbers of Handia kiosks, put up by many tribal women this summer.
“People in town and cities drink cold drinks to beat the heat, but the tribals here have their unique ‘ Handia’ to cool themselves off. The tribals would never step into a cold drink parlour to sip a soft drink. They would rather make Handia at home. The traditional home-made brew is also considered as an indispensable offering to their gods and spirits. It is customary to offer pots of Handia on social occasions in marriage feasts,” said Bhagu Munda (45) of Sukinda. He said a glass of Handia costs just Rs 5 and a Handia seller earns about Rs150 to Rs 200 daily.
The term Handia probably owes its origin to Handi (a big earthen pot). It is used to ferment the rice-beer. The process of preparing the rice-beer is rather easy. At first, dried rice is grounded, boiled and then spread out to dry. A herbal root called ‘’Ranu’ (Mulika in tribal dialect) is then powdered and the whole mass is shaped into little balls. The ‘Ranu’ balls are then powdered and mixed thoroughly with rice. The next stage requires the mixture thus obtained to be kept in large earthen pots covered with Sal leaves and preserved for three to four days during which the rice is fermented, said Sita Jarika, a tribal of Chingudipala village.
In the preparation and business of Handia, the tribal women play a key role. As its production is regarded as a kitchen work, it also generates significant income for the household. By promoting Handia preparation and sale, the tribal women have been able to maken economic gains, said sources.