Amidst culinary delights like Varanasi chaat and Malaiyyo, the city’s gastronomic offerings add flavours to the sensory tapestry of Kashi. Sharmila Chand goes across the length and breadth of the town to savour its tastes and textures

I am standing at a height in a corner overlooking the Harish Chandra Ghat and the day is Ekadashi. The site is eclectic with hundreds of devotees and tourists dancing to the tunes of the huge DJ set up. As the music pauses for a few seconds, the sound of damrus fills the air. Young boys are playing drums and damrus while sadhus and babas, dressed in various fancy ensembles, are lost in their revelries. And soon I see clouds of gulal (colours) and bhasm (ash) in the air. Legend has it that it was on the day of Rang Bhari Ekadashi, Lord Mahadev brought Goddess Parvati to Kashi after performing Gauna (marriage ceremony) and played with gulal. It is aganist this mythical backdrop that Holi is celebrated with full gusto in Kashi. The second day , it is said, Mahadev played Holi with pyre ashes and that is how the tradition of Bhasm or Masan Holi continues to date, in all its significance, cultural and religious importance. As a witness to this event I realised how deeply rooted in local tradition, culture, tradition, and spirituality Holi is in Kashi.

The City of temples

Vishwanath Temple: Early in the morning I went for a darshan of the temple. The entry is well organised and I was happy to be there for my sojourn. Situated on the western bank of the Ganges, Kashi Vishwanath Temple is one of the 12 Jyotirlingas or temples dedicated to Lord Shiva. The main deity of Kashi Vishwanath Temple is Lord Shiva, also known as Vishwanatha or Vishweshwarar.

Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple: The Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple is situated by the River Assi and, built in the 1900s by freedom fighter Pandit Madan Mohan Malviya.

Durga Temple: The Durga Temple is dedicated to Goddess Durga and is renowned for its vivid red colour and intricate architecture. It houses an imposing idol of Goddess Durga and is one of the main temples in Varanasi. Adjacent to the temple is a huge Durga Kund.

A day in the life of Kashi

Subah-e-Banaras: The early morning programme at Assi Ghat is my favourite of this immersive experience. As the first rays of the sun glint on the Ganges, there is the chanting of mantras followed by Arati, Surya Namaskar, and then Hindustani classical music. That is not all. There is an hour long yoga session after the music where tourists and the locals perform with due sincerity. I thought this would be the final event of the morning rituals but as soon as the yoga session ended, a group of locals start bhajans and kirtan which went on for another hour. While all this is was on, tea vendors are were busy selling their wares and boatmen busy at their job, tempting tourists for a Ganges boat ride.

Evenings at the Ghats: Evenings are very eventful again. There is the famous Ganga Arati across different ghats. There is also a cultural programme at the famed Assi Ghat. As dusk descends, the ghats of Varanasi come alive with the vibrant Ganga Aarti. Priests, clad in traditional attire, choreograph the ritual with synchronised movements, accompanied by the rhythmic ringing of bells and chanting of hymns. The magnificent ritual looks resplendent with huge brass lamps lit with oil and the priests chant holy mantras that reverberate through the atmosphere.

On the Food Trail

One thing you cannot miss about Varanasi is its food. Every city has its own style of preparation and flavours. Varanasi chaat and kachoris are no exception. The gol gappas here taste completley different from what I have tasted. Aloo tikki and samosa chaat comes loaded with curd, matra and chutneys. Tamatar chaat is of course compltely unique to this city.

There are several joints for kachoris. I tried at Chachi ki Kachori — kachoris-sabzi and jalebis. It is situated on the mall road in front of the Banaras Hindu University gate. As per the locals, the shop was run by an old chachi (aunt), who passed away handing over her legacy to her sons, who now run the shop.

Tamatar Chaat is a local version of aloo chaat and is made from a mashed mixture of boiled potatoes, tomatoes, onions, green chillies and fresh coriander leaves. Spices like pounded ginger, red chilli powder and garam masala are splashed into the dish making it deliciously fiery. It is served in a dona, a bowl made of palash leaves. Deena Chaat Bhandar at Dashaswamedh Road is a good option.

Head to Gopal Mandir Gali for Choora Matar in the morning. Made of flattened rice soaked in desi ghee and cooked with spices along with green peas, raisins and saffron, Choora Matar is a famous breakfast and evening time snack in Varanasi. Spices like black pepper, garam masala and hing are added to this dish to enhance its flavour.

Malaiyyo — Unique Sweet of Banaras: Makhan Malaiyyo or Nimish is a popular winter season street dessert in Varanasi. Influenced by Persian cuisine, Malaiyyo is prepared by churning the milk slowly to create a creamy texture. The milk foam is then flavoured with saffron and cardamoms and garnished with pistachios and almonds on the top, served in kulhad. You can savour these at Neelkanth and Kachori Gali.

Lassi is one drink you will find everywhere in the city. Blue Lassi at Bangali Tola is quite famous though I had a very nice one at Pahalwan Lassi Bhandar at Lanka and Chowk — made with cream and garnished with fruits and trimmed pistachios, it is truly delicious although rich.

Pizzeria Vaatika, Assi Ghat: The day you feel like having continental, go to Pizzeria Vaatika a simple café that serves amazing authentic pizzas, pastas and yes, delightful coffee with a delightful view of the Ganges.

Keshav Tambul, Ravidas Gate: How can you be in Kashi and not have the famous Banarasi paan? Keshav Taambul near Ravidas Gate offers one of the best paans in Banaras.

Tea Is No Mean Drink!: Tea in a kulhad (earthen cup) is a special item in Kashi. When you ask the locals where to go for tea, everyone has different ideas about lot of different tea stalls. Pappu Chai wala garnered the maximun votes. I found my favourite at Assi Ghat who would brew and boil the tea for a good 15 minutes, mixing a a secret lot of ingredients. If you are in a hurry, you can move on because this fellow will not change his pace or style. For a tea person like me, it was the best I have ever had and I thanked my stars for the extreme fulfillment I got. One day he didn’t show up and I missed him , the only reason he cited was that “I didn’t feel like making tea, so did something else.” Well, what could I say.

To conclude, while the ghats have been given a face-lift, facilities (like Sulabh toilets) have been provided and there is regular cleaning done, it is the responsibility of visitors to maintain some civic sense. Unless the local communities, tourists, cafés and clubs come forward to adopt areas and maintain the aesthetics, it is not possible for the administration alone to do the needful. Conscientious efforts are needed to keep the ghats clean, and that is the least we can do for such a spectacular city that reverberates with divinity, calm and peace — forever embracing one and all!