For her latest collection, JAYA MISRA has worked with artisans to revive traditional craft like Dhonekhali, Nilamabari, Shantipuri, Baluchari. She spoke to Team Viva
Kolkata-based designer Jaya Misra’s latest collection illustrates the vibrancy and splendour of Bengal merged with traditional weaves and handloom of the state. Titled Weaves Saris Collection, it uses old weaves like Dhonekhali, Nilamabari, Shantipuri, Baluchari, jute silk and cotton weaves that have faced neglect. Her creations include “patterned cotton saris with heavy borders that contrasts with a finely textured body. I have added my personal touch to motifs inspired from nature, antique jadi-bootis and intricately woven zari borders. The colour pallete reflects shades like off- white, maroon, midnight black, emerald green, gold, silver and muga silk in golden colour.”
The designer is always intrigued and inspired from rich handloom heritage of Bengal. “Working with old textiles and weaves gives me satisfaction. I feel that as a designer, I owe it to my country to work towards the upliftment of state’s textile legacy. This is my effort to revive the repressed glory of the talented weavers from Bengal”. For the collection she collaborated with old artisans from Bengal. “It was not difficult to get them but it was difficult to convince the weavers. Weaving takes a lot of time and many weavers are moving away from this”. In the process, she researched extensively and travelled to the nook and corner of Bengal.
Putting up the collection together took her six months. She believes her collection would also put forward the problems traditional weavers face. “It is sad that the textile industry in Bengal is not organised, this is one industry which does not require a high investment infrastructure to flourish. With little effort we can convert Bengal into a hub of textile industry. It is disappointing how the weavers’ community is shedding its numbers fast due to lack of work and proper returns.”
Misra believes that there is nothing classier than an Indian woven sari. According to her the sari epitomises the continuity of an age-old tradition and has emerged today as a visible symbol of the resiliency, continuity and timelessness of the Indian way of life. But does the international market realise the ethnicity of such traditional techniquesIJ “While the West is looking at us for inspiration and are in awe of our textiles, techniques and weaves, we are ignoring our rich heritage. As Indians, we need to learn to appreciate our heritage which sadly, most of us, take for granted,” she concluded.